Yeah no kidding same here. Arrives on Tuesday.
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My anxiety went up when I saw that Fedex is the shipping company shipping mine 
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I have P1S and A1. But my H2D does print most things a lot better. I have done the same print for all 3; H2D was better than P1S and A1. Iam not saying It will print everey everything better but so far it isā¦
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I had an A1 and now Iāve switched to an H2D. Itās an incredible difference in print quality. Things I printed on an A1 without any configuration are now not printable. Iāve tried various forums but the H2D simply canāt print small objects. I also have a problem with the ASA. And yes, I regret the purchase, I was expecting a better quality again but I have a beta printer.
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We printed about 2500 hours on A1 and I had a print success rate of about 98%, now I have about 50%. Iām trying different configurations because I understand that the profiles are not tuned. But this is really extreme. I tried the forum on FB but no one could give me advice. For comparison, printing the same Eiffel Tower project from the same material. A1 on the left, H2D on the right.
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I would like to give some advice on printing small parts. I switched from A1 to H2D but I noticed that objects that I printed on A1 without any problems and in any configuration, I canāt print on H2D at all. I first encountered a problem with the Eiffel Tower which was no problem on A1 but with H2D I tried different printing profiles from 0.2mm, 0.16, 0.12 to 0.08 and the bottom part always breaks off. I also tried adjusting the profile speeds on H2D according to the profile from A1 but it only improved a little. I also tried half the speeds and although better but still error-prone. I also saw a similar problem with smaller perimeters when printing a box. Thin lines simply broke off in a certain place. Nowhere else, only in the middle at the back. I tried different PLA. Printer temperature 32 degrees Celsius. Filament 220/230 degrees. Interestingly, the Eiffel Tower has a problem on all 4 outer sides, not anywhere else, and the box has a problem in the middle back. Please help
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Those top surfaces are giving you a clue. The filament is not extruding properly. Now you have to figure out why.
The first and easiest thing to do is to ensure the filament is dry.
The second thing to do is calibrate the filament. Flow rate & flow dynamics. These pretty much need to be perfect for small features like the ones on the Eiffel Tower print youāre doing. Get this done if you havenāt already.
See where those 2 things get you and we can go from there.
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Thanks for the response but I really donāt understand. I did both calibrations that BambuStudio allows and since I have AMS 2, of course my filament is perfectly dried. Now about 13%. I never solved the humidity on A1, which is open. I solve it here and it doesnāt help me. I would be happy for other ideas what to try. I tested heights, temperatures and speeds but I canāt print it.
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I do not own an H2D so please disregard my speculation if it is BS. I would just like to provide an idea to consider to find or elimimate possible root cause(s).
In some individual posts, the H2D fans were mentioned as being noticeably more powerful than those of the A, P and X series. Using identical relative fan speed settings, the H2D would then deliver a higher airflow, providing more cooling. This in turn can become a problem in curling prone prints such as the Eifel-Tower.
Indeed, the red Tower foot seems to show quite a bit of curling. Unless of course it is just confirmation biasā¦
My own experience with trying to dial in cooling settings were a real PITA. But if the failure mode is curling and filament dryness, chamber temp, speed and layer height reduction have all been ruled out and tried alreadyā¦
But it would be a real bummer if filament profiles were not in fact applicable across the series. Maybe weād need to use conversion tables for absolute air flow (part fan) and airspeed (aux fan)ā¦
Apologies if this is BS. Just an idea based on comments I read and printing on my X1.
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Hi, I have also tested different fan configurations. Unfortunately, this could be a problem with multiple things at once and I am already frustrated. Or it could just be something I havenāt tried yet and I believe in the communityās ideas, but back to the idea, I tried it with the side fan turned off to the extreme and also with the ventilation on full. I only noticed a slight improvement but every time, even with different PLA manufacturers, those thin ethereal prints broke off. I donāt know why. I have several towers from A1 and I have never set anything extra.
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However, I think there must be something wrong with the cooling, because in the Fail3 video the problem is only in the back middle part. The problem did not appear anywhere else, but I did not print it again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7021jPA6Q
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Indeed, the test matrix gets really large, really quickly when looking at cooling. Nozzle temp, chamber temp, print speed, part fan, aux fan,ā¦
With the Eifel-Tower, the problem could of course also be related to layer time and the warmer āchamberā when compared to the A1. In this case the smooth timelapse hint by @StreetSports could be a really good one.
Not sure if that would help with the failure shown in the video though. Those boxes are pretty large. On a P/X-series, Iād assume either a minor draft from the poop chute or just plain bad luck.
& 
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There has been a couple parts I went into the controls and turned off aux fan because it was showing premature signs of failing, and bumped up the heat to 230. That was with some 3dhojor pla, so I just chalked it up to the filament.
Iām hesitant to try one of these because I have an awful time with supports - how are you dealing with this? Mind sharing your settings?
default settings for slicer, using polymaker polylite for filament settings on anything non-bamboo, and if its 3dhojar pla filament it likes 230c better than 220c.
As for supports, I had only one tree support go bad when i did the spiderman helmet, however, it was a small branch that actually rebuilt itself before it needed to be used (as in it was high enough that there were other small trees in the general area to soak up the air printing oozing and made its own bridge and rebuilt itself up). Not gonna lie, pucker factor in the ole cookie cutter was almost at maximum pressure when that happenedā¦
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on the huge 250% stanley model, I have been switching it to default support instead of the tree support in the file, to get better looking overhangs in the threads. This however required going old school and using the kitchen sink and filling the basin with hot hot water to give the parts a little soak time to remove the supports in one quick swoop (when they are dry the supports just break apart and leave blemishes and material in the threads).
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Iāve never actually tried this - thanks for the tip!
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