Remove PETG from Textured PEI Plate

It’s very simple to print on PEI sheet with PETG without any release agent. Just reduce first layer temperature to about 225-235C, set first layer speeds at about 60-80mm/s and it will stick very good and release automatically upon cooling. Make some experiments starting from coldest temperatures. I always print like this, there is zero damage on plate. Not sure why Bambu profiles are not using the correct temperatures for PETG on PEI sheet.

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If there are 1layer pieces stuck on the bed plate, do not use the metal scraper. Best is to print over it. Put boxes in the slicer to cover the problem area. Abandon the print at about 5mm height, remove the PEI sheet while hot and put it in cold water or just wash with cold running water. Normally it should pop off or it should make removal really really easy.

I don’t print a lot of PETG but it starting to do more and more. I did order a separate plate for PETG as I don’t want to wreck my PLA plate. Was very curious best means to prevent the sticking. So use glue stick or something like Magig to help prevent it? As I’m new to Bambu (used Prusa) I’m trying to also figure out where to disable/turn off the setting that it keeps having like 4 or 5 lines of filament print at the front of the plate before starting its print. I’ve seen many images and videos where others using Bambu don’t use the “test” print or whatever it is called so very curious about that as well as its a PAIN to get off sometimes, even with glue down.

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When you print from Studio there’s a menu that comes up with one of the options to do filament calibration or not. Turn that off and you’ll still get a single strip but not the multiple lines.

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OMG THANK YOU!!! You’ve know idea how much this has been driving me nuts. Does this pop up at every print or can I set to default of no calibration? I’m going to look in the settings again right now.

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I don’t know how to turn it off permanently. Sorry about that. There may be a way I don’t know about though and the older hands here would probably know.

Thinking about it, it might just remember the last choice? Not at my computer to check though.

I don’t know how much it matters but I’ll let it do its thing on critical prints. I have yet to see something really get fixed by doing a filament calibration but I also don’t know what to look for.

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Thanks … from what I see there are no options to set it to not print by default so its something to remember at time of print. Most of my prints it isn’t an issue but with PETG I’d prefer to disable it as it those calibration lines have been the biggest pain to remove.

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The auto-calibration box stays unchecked until you check it again, like the other options in that box.

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Thanks, @lkraus! . . . . .

Just incase someone stumbles on this like I did after having a terrible time getting PETG off of a Bambu PEI Textured Plate, the person who said to use Windex is a genius. It worked like a charm. Totally took an impossible 30 min cleaning session to a simple pop off. Spray on a thin layer and do not wipe off. Dab off excess around the edge and allow to dry. Print literally popped off like PLA. I cannot speak to adhesion of other filaments once done with PETG but I am guessing some soap and water should get it back to normal. If it does end up ruining the plate Ill come back and update.

That genius was me. Thanks! :grin: I just cut a paper towel into approximately 3" x 3" pieces and spray 2 to 3 light sprays of Windex on it and wipe it across the plate while leaving a good film of it on there. I use that method every time on my Prusa MK4 that has a smooth plate and it works wonderfully.

I also used to use a mixture of regular white sugar dissolved into hot water and do the same on my Creality CR10-S glass mirror plate to get it prints to stick. That worked great too and once the bed cooled off the print came off easy.

No way! Sugar and water? Well I believe you cuz the Windex thing literally saved a couple rolls of PETG that I was gonna throw away. Ill have to see if I can find a glass plate to give that a try. Thanks again!

I was buying the glass mirrors at Lowes by the box full as they were cheap. I even tried sandblasting one for better adhesion and although that worked, it was easier to use a plain one with the sugar water. I just put about 2 oz of water in a small bowl or cup and heated it in the microwave. Then I added about 1/2 or 3/4 teaspoon sugar and mixed until dissolved. Applied it like I do the Windex and magic!
Now I don’t know about using a glass plate or mirror on the Bambu printers as they use an eddy sensor as opposed to the old Creality with a transducer or whatever they call it. Inductive sensor.

The higher end NG sensors work on all print surfaces that you print on. Our sensors do not require a special type or color of surface to work. This means you can use them on glass, pei, steel, flexplates, garolite, FR4, and more!

I printed something really small and had PETG loaded so went with it. My object printed fine but the brim and supports did not want to come off. I heated the bed to 80, nope. I ran hot water over it, nope. I created a 70x70x7 box and printed over it. I was a little worried as one of the supports were about 2mm above the plate. Printed fine (could here the print head rub on it) and after letting it cool to 40, ripped it off to see a beautiful clean plate. I learned the best way to remove filament is with filament and try not to print really small objects directly on the bed with PETG.

I have just had my first issue with this. Up till now petg has released great from my textured pei plate. I just had a print where there was some resistance. I had an Idea that I will try if I get this issue again. Spray the stuck filament with upside down airspray to get the super cold fluid on the filament to freeze it very fast. Making it contract faster than the build plate can hopefully causing the bond to brake. Dunno, Maybe…

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Simply letting the plate cool to room temperature is usually all that is necessary, but even reluctant prints come off after 10-15 minutes in the freezer. Due to different thermal expansion/contraction coefficients for steel vs. plastic, I think.

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Also if you use a mixture of ammonia free windex and rubbing alcohol to spray on you plate and let dry it will make petg release better. Make sure to wash plate before going back to other materials!

Thanks Olias for the suggestion to print over the PETG. I tried soaking Isopropyl Alcohol and freezer on an overly small printed part, but didn’t budge.

I then tried creating a cube, and using the original part (quite a simple one thankfully) as a “negative” object against that. It printed surprisingly well, then the whole thing came off easily - no freezing needed.

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who’s been giving tips about this.
For me, PETG does offer some resistance even at room temperature, but they come off relatively easy. The purge line however is a nightmare, and I’ve been using a PLA scraper to basically break it one piece at a time.

As I also come from a Prusa, before reading this I went with Glassex (the European version of Windex I suppose?) and it helped a little with the print themselves, not so much with the purge line.

I did print another purge line on the remaining parts and that helped, but I’m going to try the freezer trick next time. Or maybe dig out the 3d printing pen I bought ages ago do just manually add more material to it to peel it all off more easily. :smiley:

I do wonder however if it would make sense to reduce the “squish” (i.e. z-offset) for the first layer of PETG? Printing multiple layers of the purge line would probably be complicated as it’s handled in the start gcode, and would have to be replicated manually, i.e. with a box right on top of it placed by hand.

Or maybe — just brainstorming here — getting rid of the purge line entirely and have a few layers of brim printed, so that it’s easier to remove and still helps to get the right pressure in the nozzle?

Yesterday I had a TPU phone case that was thoroughly stuck to the textured plate, felt like it would tear itself apart or pull off the PEI surface. Popped it into the freezer for ten minutes, flexed the plate once, and it fell off.