You’ve evidently never seen repair instruction from various car manufacturer’s. Instructions like “cut a hole in the fender well to access the blower motor for replacement, then bolt a piece of sheet metal to cover the hole.” Or. “to access the #4 spark plug, disconnect the rear motor mount and place a jack under the rear of the engine, lift the engine until the plug is accessible.”
But you don’t have to do them under warranty. Under warranty they come, pick up your car, take it to the dealership, they give you a loaner, you live your life as usual, pick up your car when is ready, continue living your life. Simple.
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Well, to be fair, a car isnt a great analogy to begin and spark plugs in nearly all cases would never need replacing during the warranty period. However, seeing the engine/transmission pulled out of an SL65 to replace all 24 spark plugs at 50k miles is kind of crazy too (Out of warranty).
Glad that in the EU the warranty is served completely free of charge and the vendor must also pay the shipping costs, having the customer no extra charges for the product he already paid for.
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Log the ticket anyway, they can then send you a spare for next time.
I did this on a part that failed to get a quick replacement, BL then sent me the part so I now have a spare.
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Well, the fan I ordered earlier in the week showed up. It’s a long weekend. And it’s going to be rainy. So I guess I know what I’ll be doing. 
Looking up the fan part number, there appear to be two models with different specs but the same PN. One is rated to 60ºC, the other is rated to 80ºC. The 80ºC version is also higher RPM. I hope I received a 80ºC version but no way I can see to tell… It appears to otherwise be fairly generic, though. I might be able to spin it up with a bench power supply and measure the RPM with a tachometer… But I’ll be looking to source a fan from a different supplier as an alternative if this new one fails, anyway.
Best of luck. The best advice I can give is to triple-check each connector.
First, both cameras (toolhead and nozzle) said they weren’t connected. Took it all the way apart, removed and reseated both connectors and that error went away.
Next, after i tried to print, i started getting a ‘left Eddy current sensor’ again, apart re-seat, fixed.
Last, the toolhead cooling fan was slightly askew (giving the same error this all began with), had to open it up again and remove and re-seat the connector.
Had to go all the way back in there 3 different times for 3 different connectors.
Circa 7,000 hours on my H2D. One major repair required - the replacement of the toolhead and the whole X-axis gantry. And much like others have said, it was a MASSIVE PITA. Way, way more complicated than this “hobbyist” user was happy with - I have the wrong kind of hands, the wrong kind of eyes, and completely the wrong kind of skillset to do a job like that. And yes, there were steps in the repair wiki and videos that skipped, or glossed over, several key steps.
That Bambu expect end users to do such repairs while the machine is under warranty is insane to me; if my VW needed a new headlight, the dealership do it - they don’t post out a new headlight and some instructions and expect me to do it myself! And a headlight replacement is way, way easier ….
The combination of “7000 hours” and “hobbyist” doesn’t really fit imho.
That’s almost 10 months of continuous operation in less than 12 months.
Most print farm owners would be jealous at such a runtime ratio.
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I’ve read and searched online and apparently this is a thing that happens. Well it happened to me. In the middle of a print and got one of the dread beep beep of failure sounds.
Go to my screen and says my hotend fan is failing. I tried the small fixes and adjustments but it’s dead.
Bambu is sending me a new fan I think. A few comments
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unlike others my fan did not make noises or anything. It just died.
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I don’t know if it died or the board went bad or loose connections. The error is way too vague
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as many have said taking that unit apart to get to that fan is completely asinine. Holy ■■■■ that is not a good design at all. Soooo many ribbons and little wires that could go bad. People have no business getting in there.
My question to the forum - have others just had theirs go out when there was no noise or prior indicator ?
Is it ever the boards or loose/bad wires or is it always the fan going bad?
Any way to prevent it? Maintenance or anything ?
Any better quality fan? Anything?
Does replacing it work? What are my odds of getting this thing back together ?
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Very well said, I would suggest the do this for the H2C as well.
Mostly the fan fails from heat.
There is no prevention other then limiting the amount of time the chamber is heated to 60c
I believe all available fans are equal.
Replacing it works to get the printer back up. Your odds at performing the fan change depend on how careful you are…
The fan on my H2C failed without any kind of warning. Working one print, not working the next print.
The fan manufacturer has two listings with what appear to be the same part number. One is spec’d for a max operating temp of 60ºC. The other is spec’d for 80ºC. Is this more than just a label change? I tried to figure that out and could not. Are the fans BBL is shipping for replacement the 80ºC version? No way to tell.
If you’re like me, you should buy a spare fan so you have one ready for the next time. IMO at $20, it’s cheap enough that arguing with BBL about warranty replacement is a waste of time.
Ive done both (bought spares but still raised a ticket as those parts should never fail that early) and am still sitting here with a 3K paperweight that has less than 600 hours as it takes 2 weeks for parts to arrive as they dont offer any kind of express/airfreight…. They know there is an issue and they have no clue how to fix it, but they still sell the machines and will just throw the same unsuitable parts at you and tell you to fix it yourself I bought this machine specifically to print high temp filaments, its all I print with …i dont like PLA so i dont use it, Always raise a ticket, they wont argue as its a known issue, they need to fix this soon even if it needs a whole toolhead redesign as i dont want to be changing toohead fans every 3 or 4 weeks
You can change a H2D or H2C hotend fan in under 98 seconds with my upgrade.
@MiamiJerry have you posted your upgrade model yet?
Editor has not finished reviewing the instructions, soon. Did a video of how fast you can change the fan after the mod. I was slow and it took 1 minute, 37.54 seconds.
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It’s a solution for sure but it’s not an upgrade it’s a true hack. I may do it once it fails and I get to experience it. If it’s like I saw earlier you are cutting the plastic on the tool head and people who struggle to change the fan will likely struggle doing that. I do applaud the solution just cringe at the average person scared of screwdrivers or not wanting/able to lay the printer on its face to do the work trying this from the top.
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My suggestion after my upgrade from H2D to H2C experience, it would be easier just removed the entire toolhead with the rail out of the printer and replace the fan. Instead of working in odd angle in the printer.
That’s just my suggestion
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Great suggestion.
“to replace a fan - remove a freaking gantry out of the printer”.
Cheers to BL engineering team. I always said how ridiculously overcomplicated and overengineered the design is.
And seems like even BL understood that, since X2 moved to a much simpler design.
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