The 4th anniversary sale was announced today and I am debating if I should buy an H2D.
For context, I currently have a P1S with an AMS. I have a small (hobby size) 3D printing business where I mostly sell hair clips. Which means I print very small multi coloured pieces (ie. 3cm length at largest) face down on a smooth or holographic build plate. 1st layer accuracy is very important.
Sometimes, I have issues with the multi-colours bleeding into each other or darker filament stringing getting stuck in between layers and becoming visible. I feel like an H2D could help minimize this issue with the dual nozzles and with the AMS 2. This also means that I would need to get a bundle with 2 AMS 2 or the HT AMS bundle to make full use of the dual nozzles. I also like the idea of having less poop.
Regardless, I really want to upgrade to an AMS 2 as the environment I print in is very moist and I am constantly drying filament in an external dryer at the moment.
I would still use the P1S for printing home decor/vases that I also sell for my business.
Does anyone know if an H2D would help with the colour bleeding? Is the H2D worth it through the discount?
Without seeing the exact color bleeding issue it’s difficult to guarantee the H2D will solve the issue, but I can say having two separate nozzles and not needing to purge will be beneficial, and the sensor package in the H2 series definitely makes for better first layer accuracy.
If you do get the H2D combo, also order a power supply (switching power adapter) for the AMS 2 Pro - while you can dry using only printer power while not printing, you need it to dry while printing.
Thank you so much for responding. Here are a few photos of the worst cases of bleeding. I know that moisture is an issue for some of these (stringing issues), but even if I dry my filament the bleeding can still sometimes happen minimally. I am thinking that the AMS 2 would help to monitor the moisture.
It is always most noticeable when using black and white. I have experimented a lot with retraction setting and I always print lightest to darkest colours, but with my P1S it just always seems so random and inconsistent. A file I have printed many times will sometimes just have all the objects bleed or maybe a couple in the bed will have issues. I theorize that it’s just due to residual filament being stuck in the nozzles. Hoping the dual nozzles could help with this.
Does stringing or oozing using dual nozzle with AMS 2 happen often? Does the printer wipe between changing nozzles?
Ok, that’s pretty bad bleed. The H2D has a physical blocker that covers the nozzle that’s not in use, so oozing isn’t really an issue. Yes, the H2D will wipe and prime itself for each nozzle change.
If you want, I can try printing one of your models on my H2C to give you an idea of what the dual nozzle setup is capable of.
Coming from a P1S myself (still run one daily) — the bleed you’re describing is mostly a single-melt-zone reality. Every AMS color change pushes the new filament through the same hotend the old color just left, so dark pigment ghosts into light colors no matter how dialed your purge and retraction are. Drying helps stringing, but it won’t fix pigment carryover, which is why it feels random on files you’ve printed many times.
The H2D addresses your specific black-on-white case structurally: park white on one nozzle and black on the other, and white never follows black through a shared melt zone. The idle nozzle sits behind the physical blocker CarbonForge mentioned, and the wipe/prime on nozzle swap is quick. Ooze between swaps has been a non-issue in my experience.
One honest caveat before you spend sale money: if your real goal is regularly printing 3+ colors, a dual-nozzle H2D still purges for the extra colors exactly like your P1S does — that’s the workflow the H2C’s swap-hotend system exists for. For 2-color work, color + soluble support, or your black/white quality problem, the H2D on the anniversary discount is a solid buy.
If it helps, I keep an up-to-date side-by-side of the H2D / H2C / X2D specs and current prices (plus a 60-second picker quiz) here: Bambu X2D vs H2D vs H2C (2026): Specs, Price & the One to Buy — disclosure: that’s my site, but the spec table answers the price-delta question faster than the product pages do.
@user_2463535618 You’re right, and thank you — the Vortek dock is 6 swappable right hotends plus the fixed left nozzle. My chart said 8, which conflated the hotends included in the bundle with what actually docks at once. Corrected.
@dbirdman Fair challenge, and you were right to push on it. I went back to Bambu’s wiki and FAQ to be certain: the hardware docks 0.2/0.4/0.6mm hotends side by side, but current firmware only supports mixing same-size nozzle types within one print (e.g. 0.4mm standard + 0.4mm high-flow). Mixed nozzle sizes in a single job is a future-firmware capability, not a today feature — so as written, my chart was ahead of reality. It now says exactly that, future-firmware caveat included.
Appreciate both of you keeping it honest — a comparison page is only useful if the specs are actually right.
Thank you for your detailed response. I have gone very deep into trying to minimize bleed with flow rate and other settings and what I have researched everyone agrees with your point that the root cause is always going to be the single nozzle.
H2C would fix alot of my issues for sure, but it is definitely outside of my budget right now as I do not make enough to make it worth the buy.
Most of my prints are black and white and those have the most issues. However, for 3 colour prints I was going to use one nozzle strictly for black and then the other for lighter colours. Technically, I could just buy a AMS and AMS HT combo, but the 2 AMS 2 combo is just $100 more so thought I might as well just get that. If I ever do 4+ colours I would just always do darkest colours in one nozzle and lighter colours in the other nozzle.
From my understanding bambu slicer gives you the ability to decide how you want to route the filament to which nozzle on the H2D and you can override/customize even if it’s technically not the most efficient.
To route them without replumbing, you may look at the track switch. If you always keep your dark on the side spool, then no need, but if its in the AMS (and your not using the side spool) then you will need it to tell it what nozzle it should go to.
Yes, it would be 2 AMS 2. I cannot use a side spool unfortunately as my workspace is in a basement and there is too much moisture. From what I have read I don’t even need a AMS hub for H2D? I totally forgot about the track switch though. I don’t think I need a track switch right now though. I can see how it would be good for efficiency. However, my biggest concern is the contamination of dark and light colours. I think I am just going to try to use one side strictly for dark colours and one side only for light colours. Hopefully it will prevent any residue from bleeding.
I would save my money which will save you lost of BS trying to make this printer work, If you don’t believe me just read through some of these posts about this unit and all the H2 series units. Buyer Beware. You have been warneed!
