Hi,
Should I return my X1, I just got it few days ago, and decided to print.
This is my first print. Idk why i am getting weird lines.
Benchy Print on X1C.
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Your printer is operating perfectly. So, I actually see no real problems here. It’s nearly identical to my first X1C Benchy (which I kept).
The first photo shows what is called the “Benchy hull line”. This one won’t really ever go away no matter the printer. Just google it if you’re interested.
I’ll assume you used the G-code that’s on the printer. The 2nd and 3rd photo show the “Z-seam” on the smoke stack. It’s a round surface, and the Z-seam has no where to hide. You can also Google “Z-seam” to learn more. [There is a experimental setting called “Scarf” that you can enable and play with for future prints to try and reduce the Z-seam appearance]
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Why… Why would you return it?
Is this your first printer?
“Benchy” is not meant to be a toy boat that prints perfect. Its a “benchmark” 3D print. Its supposed to be reasonably difficult. Also, the file that comes with the printer is meant to display speed, crazy speed actually. Minor visible imperfections are in no way a sign of a defective printer.
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I just took a look at my Bench (first print), and it has the exact same defects you call out.
I remember looking at it the first time and thought “wow, this is incredible!” But, this is my first 3D printer and I didn’t know what to look for as a perfect print.
All that saying, I know a lot more now with over 1000 hours on my printer and I love it. It is in no way defective and produces amazing prints.
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I was just curious why I am getting those striation and bumps.
Thank you all for responding, I was worried if the lidar system is at fault. 
I am happy with the printer.
I thought you were trolling lol
Hiya.
I got my X1C over a month ago and only opened it up yesterday.
Printed the same Benchy thing as you, and it looks 100% the same, on the top, the sides and everything with the little imperfections. This is actually re-assuring me all is good my end too
Just need to learn how to use the thing :+)
Thanks,
As a general rule of thumb within all of 3D printing especially FDM. You’ll end up one way or another having to calibrate and troubleshoot simple print inconsistencies.
Please refer to the Official Bambu Labs Wiki Page [LINK]
Which will help you more than you know when it comes to solving minor issues such as what you’re experiencing. In my opinion based on the photo referenced above, this is no other than a simple seam gap adjustment within the print parameters. As for the [Lower Marking] on the hull of the Benchy, this is a widespread “common phenomenon” of the model itself which you look up when typing “Benchy hull line” on google.
Best of luck
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I got my X1C today and just made my first print:
My Benchy looks exact the same, with the same imperfections.
Controversial take: Yes you should.
If you’re hoping for that level of detail being perfect, like printing wargaming miniatures, you should go resin.
There’s ways to fix the issues you showed, but it takes skill, experience, effort, and often reprints. I’m assuming you don’t want to take the time, but that’s for you to decide.
FYI, the hull line can be helped via print perimeters first. Arachne perimeters might help, too. The top looks like it might be the seam, I think you’d want to turn on scarf seam. Stagger/random seam is almost always a good idea.
A lot of cosplayers and such cover every print with bondo (automotive product) or spray filler (seems to be a UK prpduct, can’t find it in usa myself)
It’s called filler primer, you should find it easily
Haha if this is a LOD you are dissatisfied with you should try an Ender 3….
This was not a serious question. I agree with the person who said you should return it. Since you didn’t have the wherewithal to dig yourself out of that paper bag…
if you can get your money back, may be the print looks ok for first print. This looks like the seam which will be improved but will be on any printer , the second problem looks like not ideal flow/K calibration or too high speed that will be solved
- X1C is not a bad printer but i needed months to calibrate it to get to a quality level what i got with Prusa MK4 with in 2 days
- X1C has it advantages like ASM and chamber , but chamber is option for MK4
- MK4 is a bit slower , but after 7 days found out how to make it faster and after 1 month on the X1C realized that had to slow it down for everything
There are other printer options but after spending so much time with X1C i find the forum is the best
a Friend of mine recommends qidi-tech, but not sure my self and have not tried it
If your not doing flow calibration or did not calibrate it right it can lead to that I have the X1C With The AMS.