I have some. It made ZERO difference. Don’t waste your money imo
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That’s good to hear, reallly. I agree it’s better than stock but I didn’t use it as much as I thought. I have the Revo with obxidian HF and Brass HF that I like better. Since then my E3D has just sat with the other BBL nozzles.
I wonder… For MIG welding there are anti-spatter sprays to keep molten metal spatter from sticking to the MIG nozzle. Could the spray be similar to their repellent paint, or perhaps even the same thing repackaged?
I see an “up to 60% higher flow rate” claim. Nothing about under what test conditions (1.2mm nozzle in straight lines?)
They seem to be claiming credit for “free and open source” designs. Like they originated them…
Looks like a nozzle change requires pulling the boot off, unscrewing the nozzle, and the reverse with the new nozzle. Which, as others have mentioned, is the same way everyone else does it.
Honestly, you already know more than I do. My first association with “anti-stick” is probably the same as everyone else’s: teflon. Clearly, in its basic form that would be a poor choice because above a certain temperature it gives off toxic fumes. So, for mig welding, it couldn’t be that, as plainly the temperatures there are even higher. Perhaps its like solder mask. That’s kinda “painted” on a PCB (well, silk screened or rolled on generally, but whatever) certainly does a good job of repelling solder. Perhaps the mig welding splatter stuff is like that. I’m totally spitballing at this point.
If I were further grasping at straws, I imagine some kind of high temperature grease would resist adhesion from a plastic filament. After all, lipids are naturally slippery. Further, it’s common practice to degrease a substrate before painting it if you want a good bond, pretty much regardless of paint. That said, if there’s a good match for this application, I’d guessing someone has already bottled it and is selling it for that purpose. For that reason, I think a survey of what’s already on the market to serve this purpose for 3D printers is probably a pretty complete catalog. The problem is well identified, plenty of time has passed since it would have first been encountered (3D printing started in the 1980’s), and I surely have no novel insights into it.
IIRC, nozzles are often plated with nickel to make them less sticky to plastics. And there are, IIRC, alleged to be others that do an even better job. Diamond? Ruby? Titanium. I have no idea.
Looking again more closely at the Slice Engineering nozzle:
it looks as though the silicon cover cozies right up to the very tip of the nozzle opening. Is it that, or is the nozzle colored to match the same color as the silicon, so they only appear to blend together? It an ambiguous photo. It almost looks as though the silicon might even cover the nozzle, but that wouldn’t make any sense would it? I’m now regretting my earlier smart-Alec comment, which probably didn’t do it justice. That said, as everyone commented at the time, their video did a really poor job of explaining it. Perhaps they’ve amended it or put out something better by now. If it’s any good at all, it deserves a better reveal than what that first video gave it.
And if it’s not any good at all…
over 80 dollars for shipping? more expensive than the Revo! 
almost 200dollars for a single hotend, sure CHT but that’s alot.
I made a video of changing a nozzle on the P1P, takes about 1 min once it’s cool enough to handle. Any claim that a nozzle will be faster to swap out is marketing garbage.
None of the 3rd party nozzles are worth it, save your money.
Their repellant doesn’t do ■■■■. You get the benefit from cleaning your nozzle really well before applying it, not from the repellant. I still have half a bottle because it’s just a waste of time applying it.
I got it for PETG, cuz it likes to stick to anything. But is really didn’t do more than what I get scrubbing the nozzle clean. After like an hr of printing it doesn’t help and cleaning your nozzle is needed same as not applying it.
I don’t think this company makes any useful products, all snake oil. Save your money and forget about this company.
Get an E3D Obxidian, or better a Diamondback.
I now prefer one of these over the Revo. The Revo is a good hotend as well.
I don’t know why anyone would buy this, I guess you can use a diamondback ruby nozzle to make sure you have spent enough money for something that does not help.
I bought the E3D Obsidian after having to disassemble my extruder too many times on the TZ ■■■■ off Aliexpress and going back to stock.
I dunno how much more things I can add to it besides a bentobox at this point. Panda Touch with PWR is a bit expensive but I can start a print and have it turn off once finished is a nice feature .
I have yet to see any of the main YT channels say anything positive about this offering.
The only annoying thing about the Aliexpress TZ hotends is that the nozzle is its own size, smaller than v6.
I don’t know what size nozzle the Mako uses, but if it’s V6, then I suppose that would make it easier to buy nozzles for it.
I mean, technically you can put a V6 nozzle in a TZ hotend though, but it makes the hotend taller by a little bit, and the printer doesn’t like that.
I see a lot of negativity here but I like slice products. I have the mako on my printer and it has since been fixed against heat creep. I have a diamondback nozzle in it and an upgraded heater and I have no problem exceeding 40 mm cubed a second. If you choose to put a diamond back on it be prepared for the fact that the heater will not be able to keep up with the flow rate of the hot end and you will have to take the chance on putting a larger than recommended heater on your printer. With the diamondback, the layer adhesion is also incredible. For someone who was asking what kind of nozzle it takes, it is their own new fin standard that they are hoping more people adopt, and yes the silicone boot covers almost the entire nozzle except for the tip. Helps keep any stray plastic off of the rest of the hot end as well as hold in more heat. I actually ended up here while trying to figure out what the internal volume of the hot end was as I’m trying to figure out how much more I need to purge cuz I’m realizing that my regular purges are not enough. At this point, I figured that a positive comment was in order. I will say I agree that the plastic repellent paint does not help against petg like I hoped it would.
I meant to mention that I don’t know what the inside of the Amazon Hot ends look like but they’re probably just straight through, but the mako hot end has an interesting shape to it that is kind of CHT like even before the nozzle that increases surface area and keeps laminar flow before you even get to choosing what type of nozzle to put on it. The shape before the nozzle is like two 0.7 mm holes drilled next to each other but connected. It’s interesting.
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It’s been almost a year since I purchased the nozzle for Bambu. Im planning to buy the MicroSwiss version with the refund because they have their inventory order in place. They keep sending me emails with empty promises. If you feel the same, please report this to BBB and check YouTube for more information on these delays.