Running on Mac, never had a problem.
On moc OS BigSu711.7.10
Since latest update I cant slice anything at all, just crashes out and I get the old spinning ball and have to do a force quite every time.
Tried several modely from simple pla discs to fancier items that I have sliced and printed succesfully prior to this.
Can I wind back to the last version??
Sure, just load a previous release.
Iāve been having the same issue.
The spinning rainbow of death happens for me after I slice my design.
Iāve been able to out wait it a couple times and get a print through though.
Very frustrating.
Iām new to this whole 3D Printing world, so Iām basically commenting here in case someone seeās a way to fix this and I can get an alert. 
Thanks for all the help guys, I downloaded the last version and overwrote the latest update, things are better but not back to normal.
Prinitng with basic PLA on bambu Basic PLA settings, or any other setting s for PLA generally results in failure for of the base layer to adhere and āblobsā of plastic on the base layer resulting in the second or third layer pass tearing the model of the base plate,.
(Textured PEI Plate).
I tried both sides of the plate, adding glue, doing both flow rate and dynamics calibration as well as bed levelling, motor noise/vibration compensation calibration.
I have tried hotter and colder bed temps as well as adjusting nozzle temps 5 deg either side of 220 deg C but nothing works.
Right now its just a brickā¦
Adhesion trouble is not likely to be a slicer problem.
Dry your filament.
Clean your plate with warm water and a grease-cutting dishwashing detergent (Dawn or Fairy liquid). Rinse thoroughly and dry with a clean towel. Donāt touch the print surface.
Randomly changing temperatures is not likely to be useful.
If you think nozzle temperature is incorrect, print a temperature tower that will print with a range of temperatures and pick the best result. If it turns out to be at the end of the test range, extend the range in that direction and print another tower to see if you can get further improvement.
The default bed temperatures have always worked for me, but seasonal environment changes might require preheating the bed for 10-15 minutes to reach a stable temperature.
Thank you Ikraus,
Filament is drying now, how exactly do I do a temp tower test?
There many Temperature tower models on Makerworld, Printables, etc.
I prefer to use the models and calibration procedures built into OrcaSlicer. It is convenient to have all the tests in one place, and the temperature test lets me modify the range of temps to be tested without editing the gcode.
Iām on windows and while it doesnāt crash, slicing is EXTREMELY slow, like over 10x longer than it took on the previous releases. Something is clearly broken.
Iāve found it after digging through the settings, smart scarf seam is what is slowing my slicer down.
Newbie here. So should I uncheck the āSmart Scarfā seam application box. I was glad to find this discussion. I had noticed a change from yesterday but blamed my older PC Ha.
