For those above still struggling with PETG. The solution is fairly simple- Create a new printer profile and call it XXX-PETG. Then in the profile change your z offset to 0.03 or as high as 0.05. PETG does not like to be squished like PLA and ABS. You need to drop it down on the plate. You will rarely ever get blobs, scarring at edges of holes, wisps on the top layer etc. Also bridges should be slowed down to like 15-20mm/s and extrusion rate smoothing set to 350 and segment to 5mm. All your problems solved. I have thousands of perfect prints with these and other settings. Your welcome.
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@wiremeup Which brand and model of PETG are you using?
Several. I’ve used BL, Atomic, Hatchbox, Overture, Inland, Phaetus, IEMAI. Many of these I have used petg-CF also.
This one is really simple. Cut all your speed settings in half. The stock profiles for PETG are too fast. Of course if you want to dial in for speed your could but in general if you want your prints to just work, go for half speed. Cue a guy to pop in and say he prints full speed all the time with no issues… My response is this, i bought my machine to print petg so when i didnt i figured out why.
That’s a very broad and vague suggestion. Normal petg stock settings range from 12-15. Are you suggesting a mvfr of 6? Thats actually worse for petg since it allows stringing and oozing. Print hot, print fast with high acceleration. Cut speeds on the slicing profile depending on what you are printing. My flow rate is between 12 and 17 depending on the brand of filament. You do not need to regress to tpu speeds.
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Nope i did not suggest that. Half speeds really is not too unclear i hope. What im suggesting is that if your wondering why your machine fails to print petg stock out of the box like mine did, half speeds will fix the problem wih no loss except very tiny amounts of time. But failed prints waste way more time. Im just talking SPEEDS, not Acceleration. Bridging is based on percentages so that can be left. Its like 4 or 5 boxes to change. Petg likes to print slow
In my case switching to arachne as the wall generator helped tremendously, as did switching to the newer high speed PETG filaments. With those I get a higher confirmed maximum volumetric flow rate than with PLA, which was previously unheard of. The benefits of the new PETG filaments has been discussed on other threads, so no need to rehash the details here. Give it a try, and then you can decide for yourself whether or not the upgrade is worth it.
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Have you compared the stability of HS PETG with normal PETG? As well as temperature resistance and other properties of finished prints?
I tried the settings you gave me and the pimple that looked like a cherry tree trunk disappeared. It was like magic. 
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How to make 0.03 in Bambu Studio?
You must create a new printer profile. I only use orca now so I’m not sure if it’s all the same anymore in studio but there should be a plus button near your existing printer name. That or you make a copy of the existing printer profile at the top left corner. Once the copy is made you would give it an alternate name that indicates it’s for petg. Then change the z offset in its settings.
Hi Guys!
Do you have any good experience with Polymaker PolyLite PETG? Would you mind please share your complete printing profile with me? I am tuning as much as I can, based on every recommendation but it is a pain in …
I have successfully printed many materials like PLA, PLA+, TPU, PA6-CF / GF, but I just can not print this amazing PETG material. Many calibrations, many tests, I am almost out of my 2nd spool only for test purpose and still no perfect print.
THank you!
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When I first got my spool of Polymer PolyLite PETG Black I had a lot of stiction issues, stringing, spaghetti, and it was a general mess. Two things ended up solving it for me:
- Making extra sure that the filament was really dry. I ended up drying it for a total of 24 hours (8 hours over night, then another 16 hours after a break of 4 hours or so, so that I could grab it the next day while it was still hot from the dryer).
- Taking care to thoroughly clean my build plate.
To check the dampness of the filament put it in an air-tight container with a hygrometer that goes at least as low as 10% humidity. Leave the filament and the hygrometer overnight without desiccant overnight. If the hygrometer reads 10% (indicating it is probably less than 10%) you should be good to go. You’re probably fine up to 15% or so.
After that store the filament along with desiccant to keep it dry.
After doing that I didn’t have any more issues.
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“You guys are making a mountain out of a molehill about PETG. It’s great and my Prusa MK3S with a Bamboo P1S upgrade and AMS prints it perfectly. Sure, I had to tweak the Spectrum Premium filament settings for a while, but I have no issues with Devil Design or Prusament. You’re overthinking it and not calibrating properly. In 99% of cases, you have a damp filament or an extruder issue, folks.”
If you achieve and maintain a humidity level below 50% in your room and keep your filament below 40% humidity, you won’t have any issues, even with a generic Bamboo PETG profile. I can confirm this 100%. I own two P1SAMS, an X1C, a Prusa mini, a MK3S+, and an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, and they all print PETG flawlessly. However, if the humidity in your room consistently stays above 60%, you can do whatever you want… or print directly from a dryer. And yes, you’ll need to fine-tune your settings for bridges, especially with HighFlow PETG. So, slow down.
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Apparently when it comes to printing PETG, there may be more to it than just printer settings. For instance, Teaching Tech today threw Creality under the bus for the way the K2 Plus prints PETG. If it was just a matter of printer settings alone, I doubt he would have done that.
Which leads me to wonder, if not only print settings that make a difference, just what else is it that makes the difference? And is it a factor in how the X1C prints PETG, or not?
With the advent of High Speed PETG filaments, I’m getting much better results on my X1C now than before. Nonetheless, I have a different printer which seems to outperform it. If I had my druthers, I’d probably print most things in HS PETG rather than High Speed PLA, but High Speed PLA still seems to print better (more reliably?) on the X1C.
By the way, I measured Sunlu HS PETG at 43mm^3/sec, which is just remarkable. I set mine to 40mm^3/sec in my print profile, and with normal PETG slicer settings, the flow never actually gets up that high, so it might as well be infinite.
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Are you saying that the Orca Slicer has some calibration tools or is there another tool in the repo for calibrating filaments?
How often are you printing with the Sunlu high speed PETG? If you’re printing with it often, do you mind sharing your settings?
I want to use PETG as the standard filament at work for the various properties but can’t find much in terms of profile settings for this specific filament.
The bambu generic petg HF profile seems to work alright. I bumped up the temp to 235 after running a temperature tower but the layer adhesion didn’t seem great (I did only run the tower up to 250C and didn’t really see a strength difference, maybe up to 270 would help?) But for functional prints, I’d like to leverage PETG’s impact resistance and not have to worry about failure due to weak layer adhesion.