I’ve never seen a test cube like yours before. What’s unique is that it doesn’t appear to rely on holes to trigger the problem. Maybe post your model file here to see whether it causes havoc for others also?
That said, I’m not sure whether it’s the same problem as what @T_guttata has. Perhaps it opens the door to even greater horrors…
I will print this cube with PLA and PETG, but it will take some time (sunday or monday).
Bambulab support is a bit disappointing. So far I did everything they wanted me to do without success. They have not proposed anything which would help me (such as a replacement for the printer). If I were to use the printer commercially this would be a real problem!
The half the ‘knurled’ surface is overhang which it will slow down for then round the corner and rapidly accelerate. Same situation as the overhang at the top of holes.
I was curious so i printed this test cube in PETG from BASF. Here are the results. It is almost perfect apart from some slight stringing and the bridging of that right stick-out-part. Only on the left side (with the knurling) there are a few open spots in the first lower quarter part of the print, but that is from the seam in those layers.
I use my own filament profile, inherited from the ‘Gerenic PETG’ profile, with only the following adjustments (left Generic PETG, right my own profile):
How have you determined these custom values for your PETG, if i may ask ?
Thank you for testing and sharing.
Where did you get density (manufacturer?) and flow rate (experimentation?)
I’ll print a heat tower as your PETG nozzle temp is below my GELO manufacturer filament recommendations. Perhaps I’m set too high.
I notice you have more artefacts on the left side (the grid) and have similar issues on the bar and diamond latice at the right side.
Same here. PET-G only.
Prusament, Amazon, Overture different colors.
No problems on the Bambu & Prusa Printers even years later without drying.
My spools do NOT have a box or bag. They simply lie on a table and enjoy dust over the years.
I remove the little dust and fill the AMS … thats all. No Probs.
0.4nozz 0.16layer height
Allegedly the softfever fork allows you to run some additional calibrations not possible in the official bambulab software… I have no idea whether or not they are relevant to the problems under discussion here, but if you’re at a dead-end and want to keep diagnosing on your own, I suppose it’s something to try: Print quality turned from good to bad
Thank you - I’m running the SoftFever slicer version now. Due to some serious quality issues after BambuStudio 1.5.x and not being able to revert to a pure 1.4.x I wanted to give it a try. Just starting up and will try to locate the prints that indicate the best settings. I don’t see anything in the slicer software yet.
On the top click caliberation and the options will drop down
For the flow rate tests 1 and 2 turn off bed leveling and first layer scan
For pressure advance use lines with bed leveling on but first layer inspection off
I’ll post a link that shows exactly how I set up my filaments in Soft Fever
I will get a replacement for the extruder. However, it is still hard to believe the extruder is the problem.
Here is the cube printed with PLA:
Perfect quality, don’t see any real issues!
My experience after trying PETG… the Generic PETG Profile never got optimized for the printer. It’s just wrong.
For example: The fans are to fast, PETG don’t need that - you will get issues with layer adhesion. The speed is to low, bridging to fast. There is a lot of testing needed to make a good working profile.
The bad thing: there will never be a “works for all” profile. It depends on the parts you want to print.
And some settings, which are needed for speed tuning, are missing. For example lowering the nozzle temp for the bridge layers. Or using the aux fan for bridging only.
But a PETG print will never be as good as a PLA print, don’t forget that.
And bridging will always be an issue since PETG is a flexible material.
I think you hit the nail on the head here, PETG seems to have a lot more variation across brands than most other plastics.
It was such a great plastic when working that all the companies tuned the heck out of it to fix the stringing, etc.
Now we have some awesome choices but they seem to vary wildly from brand to brand, even from old style to new in the same line as they all have their own blends.
There’s a lot of help in this thread, we should keep throwing up working profiles for the brands not listed, so People - Post what works!
Which PETG formulation prints best on the X1C using the generic profile? I get acceptable results using Sunlu PETG filament, but maybe there exists something markedly better?
Is that necessarily so? I would print PLA, but it’s brittle compared to PETG, so PLA is seemingly not all that practical for printed parts that actually do something more than sit on a shelf and look pretty.
Interesting, PLA is actually better for physical stress around room temperature - overall one of the best materials without additives.
Ever try Polymaker PolyMax PLA? It’s more flexible than any PETG filaments I’ve ever tried. Been using it for some years with great results when I need parts to flex a bit without cracking.
It’s a bit diffucult to choose. So many filaments out there, but usually marketing is better than quality…
I assume there must be good reasons why Prusa chose PETG to print parts for making the Prusa 3D printers.
