I am trying to print the same model filled on the build plate. I increased the bed temp from 55c to 60c and it was better but upon reaching the end, 3 models fell off the build plate. Build plate is clean and used dish washing soup and alcohol. Using textured pei plate.
Supports enabled and brim as well.
If anyone can help find the cause or fix that would be appreciated.
Added the .3mf file link for you to look at and some pics of what happened:
Just in general: For difficult prints, a smooth plate is more suitable because it has more adhesion. That would be something to consider to buy.
First, a question:
Yes it is intentional that I only need supports and brims at the surface of the build plate, and no the model is not floating, probably happened randomly for some reason and I don’t know why it didn’t show that supports were enabled and brim set to auto but it is.
There is no need for supports to be higher than that to be honest as I have printed this model 4 times but singles with no problems.
Also as I know, many people say that textured pei plates have better adhesion than smooth pei plates.
I’ll take a screenshot now of the settings I am using and how it looks after slicing. Look at the pics.
I’m only talking about the base. Are you sure that’s what you want? I mean, yes, the 3D model is built that way, but there’s no contact surface at all.
That means a brim won’t help you either, because where would it grip? I can see now that you do indeed have a brim, but it’s so small and can’t grip properly at all. The blue lines are your brim, far too few and only in a few spots.
This is how it would look correct and actually provide support if the brim were placed around the entire object:
Do you know what I mean now: Your brim is tiny and, as I said, the object floats slightly in the air. No idea if this is a file error. Try checking that. Brim was activated in the settings, but not configured, e.g., to be larger and inside and outside.
Yeah the customer that I’m printing it for wants it that way for some reason.
I will re-adjust the brim width and type and see if it makes a difference.
Thanks!
Does the inside matter in terms of quality? At least up to the first third? If not, make a support in the middle like a tree that holds the walls in place. Just imagine a tree standing in the object and taking up about a third of it. That will definitely hold. Disadvantage: There are a few unsightly transitions on the inside.
Nah I need it to be as clean as possible, which is why I’m using as little supports as possible.
Can’t say I’ve found this to be true. My experience has always been that the smooth PEI plates have better adhesion.
The textured pei plate has better adhesion to the models because the rough surface grips/grabs the first layer of the micro-texture where the smooth pei plate is less aggresive and gives you a bottom shine and smoother surface finish. Plus textured is less prone to warping. I’m talking about PLA and PETG respectively.
Can’t say I’ve found any of that to be true in my use cases.
I dunno, that’s weird. For me it is that way for sure, not only on my H2D but also on my other printers.
I also have an engineering plate yet I only use that for engineering material.
I might agree with you if I were to print a single model piece, but not for batches. Also if you are talking about better adhesion towards vertical pull then yes, but for sideways force textured pei plates are better.
Overall, textured pei plates have the highest friction coefficient of all plates.
As the others have already told you, and as I will also tell you, you are wrong. The smooth plate has such strong adhesion that you have to be careful when removing your print, otherwise you might damage the coating on the plate. Often, you have to use tricks, such as putting it in the freezer. You can also take a look at the Bambu page, where the process is explained in more detail. The plates were developed precisely for such problem cases.
Oh, I wanted to mention why that is: the smooth surface has better adhesion because there are no air pockets. You know the effect, right? When you press two glass plates together with a drop of water, they stick together like glue. On the other hand: The rough surface is designed so that anyone, even beginners, can remove it.
On the other hand, Textured PEI is designed for the general public, for simple prints that anyone from children to grandparents can remove without damaging the plate, which is why the adhesion is not so extreme.
But as I said, I don’t want to talk you out of it, do your thing.
The Bambu Engineering Plate that you mentioned, for example, is intended for use with glue and for special materials, but I’m sure you know that yourself. I just wanted to point that out. So no comparison to the smooth plate, a completely different world.
If it’s such a huge deal, just get the supertack. With PETG and PLA there wouldn’t be an issue.
I too have had better luck with smooth plates. Textured plate only get’s used for..well texture.
Please call me Jay, johnfcooley. Pretty sure you know how to search.
I understand this but you haven’t considered the way the nozzle moves bro. When it’s a single model I would definitely agree with you and if it’s for a vertical pull. But the model I am printing is in batch and nozzle requires sideways force. Even though smooth pei plates stick harder vertically it has lower friction, parts can skid microscopically, once a tall part starts to lean, leverage pops it off. Especially late in the print when parts are light.
Like for flat boxes, trays or short mechanical parts smooth pei is the way to go. Tall, thin, decorative parts textured pei plate work better. So what I’m saying is each pei plate has different use cases depending on the model being printed.
So smooth pei plates don’t solve sideways knock-offs. It grips better when pulling up. Textured pei grips better when being pushed sideways and this is where my model is failing.
If my print fails at lifting straight up then yes I would definitely use the smooth pei plate but my problem is failing due to sideways knock-offs. These are two very different physics problems.
I’m not saying you guys are wrong, we are both right but for different use cases ( different models ).
Can lead a horse to water…
But you can’t make it drink… lol 
I mean I can give it a try but I know my physics hahaha.
For now I just increased the brim size and type and will see where we get from there.
If it doesn’t work, I will try the smooth pei plate yet talking in physics terms, it doesn’t make sense using it 
You’re not one of those that thinks they’re always right are you?
Yes, because your print settings are not optimized and there are a lot of beginner mistakes. Normally, he head doesn’t bump into the model at all.
I would just try the Z-hop setting. But I don’t feel like explaining that right now, bro.
I don’t want to question your experience, bro, you’re doing your thing. Whatever floats your boat, bro. 
