Oh boy… I hope it doesn’t do that on every single colour change… then again … Creality… need we say more?
I suppose it’s too soon to call it for sure, but if I were to place a wager, I’d place my bet on The bondtech INDX as the “next new thing”. Wouldn’t you? It just seems so much more compact and elegant. You can fit a lot more printheads on a printer, and the printheads are lighter. Isn’t it just all around better?
Well the Bondtech will definitely be more widespread because it will work on many different printers, the LDO kit is just for the Voron 2.4. Price wise I’m not sure, has Bondtech announced a price yet?
LDO will get some points with the impatient people for shipping first, it’s supposedly on the way to authorized distributors right now. Also I think a big amount of the people who own a 2.4 built the LDO kit so there’s that.
With either one you will end up with something similar to a Prusa XL, but much cheaper than a Prusa XL 
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typo 
it was meant “launching”
but laughing works as well
it’s not yet the elephant in a room (full of China stuff), just an ant. But it could become The Elephant soon…
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Well, that didn’t make me nervous. I also wouldn’t say I’m the poorest man in the world but at latest at 600 USD I start to think (before it is more a gut feeling to act), and at 1000 USD I start to calculate well (or it really gives me a lot of joy)…
1200 watts—so that definitely adds up to much more than 1000 USD per year in electricity costs.
If I would making a space for a machine like that, I probably have enough orders to keep it running a lot. My air-to-water heat exchanger heater sometimes uses 2000 watts, especially in the two winter months, January and February (a machine for 40k USD for heating a house in winter season in switzerland). During that time, I definitely spend more on electricity for heating than the printer costs.
Sure, sometimes you install permanent consumers with a load of 5 kW (even 400 kw and more), for example a motor, but those things really have to deliver. In 3D printing, a machine like that, running for days on end, is quite a hefty consumer who then has to earn money. For all other printers, I can simply continue charging myself and add a small flat rate for the rest… Maybe a machine with a 300 x 500 build area could may interesting to me (if it ever on the market), but I’m not quite sure about that yet. And if the H2D has a problem, it can easily cost add. $2,000 just in losing time for myself.
Indicative Bondtech INDX pricing around $250 for the print head, and then $35 for each nozzle.
Whilst the Inductive heating is interesting and not having to cut and retract filaments Is nice and I will likely implement INDX on a non BL printer, I don’t think it will be suitable for BL printers.
Also the biggest downside I think of INDX is the PTFE management - managing 12-16 PTFE’s is going to be a lot more difficult than the 2 x H2D or 4 x A1(m).
What I would like to see is the H2D / A1 type nozzles being auto swappable - with a rack of up to about 16 nozzles being available and automatically swappable mid print.
I would like to see this in addition to AMS’s - so that you have have say 4 x 0.4 nozzles for PLA, 4 x 0.2 Nozzles for PLA, and then the other 8 for other sizes or other materials. Then lots of AMS’s connectable for the actual filaments - with individual filaments potentially being used by both 0.4 and 0.2mm nozzles for example.
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PTFE management is problem for any multi-head printer. Neither H2D nor A1, nor things like Kobra 3 with like 8 color inputs suffer ptfe tube management problem since its’ still single head.
What’s good with INDX regarding PTFE is that all you care about is just PTFE, no need to care about toolhead power+cabling… Which brings other problems because more cabling gives a bit stiffness to pfte, but without it one has to figure out solution like for example steel wire.
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Well, the question isn’t always whether something can catch fire - the question is whether it’s insured. In may case: Only professionals do my water and electricity. Only professionals of the economic zones deliver Electronic (EU) or check what they have imported. Not because I can’t do it, because otherwise the insurance is void.
Even the best people make mistakes sometimes; may that’s what insurance is for.
Then comes the importer’s reinsurance, and if this one gets bankruptcy and it was purchased properly, your own will pay- and then the first question may will by, did you operate it according to the manufacturer’s specifications?
And then it’s the payer’s turn - if you’re unlucky and haven’t read anything, you’re the one who pays - it depends on the bank account and possibly blocked escape routes (Then the curtain is down anyway)… e.G. If kitchen extractor hoods aren’t cleaned, the insurance company might clame a few euros to the tenant. In Switzerland, the tenant will may not more be able to pay back the rent for the rest of his life.
Im going to have as many nozzles as a 500mm ratrig can hold. Then, I can have a few sets of all available sizes of nozzles Preloaded.
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You’re making a fundamental error of confusing capability with actual usage. Prime example of that is the H2D. Assuming 120v US electricity, it can consume up to 1600w. In Switzerland, on 220-240v, it would be even more. So, by your reasoning, even more money down the drain. But it doesn’t run at that rate 24/7, even if you were printing 24/7. It’s only for a minute or so when first heating up that it’s consuming anywhere near it’s maximum draw. If you need proof, have a look at the measurement charts I posted on the UPS thread.
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Just a sidenote: I pay my bill in kW per hour (1000 Watts per hourse) and not in Volts.
Watt is volts times amperes and is not only dependet on the Volts.
1200 watts is a lot - well my X1C can take 1000 Watts as well but runs somewere around 100 watts.
Permanent consumers are dangerous for the electricity bill; even a normal network switch with 90 watts will be noticed in a normal household because it is always running and a printer then uses a lot of electricity.
90 Watts = 0.09 Kw * 24 h * 365 days * 0.3 cent per Kw/h = 236.52 Euro per year opertion cost for a 90 watt Network switch running 24/7 365 days - i do not comment on your following post, just note once more, i pay my electric bill in kw/h on not in volts 
Duh. Maybe read the H2D spec sheet and maybe then you’ll understand why I brought up the voltage difference. Try that, and then see if it finally makes sense to you. If not, I’ll give the reveal then, but only after.
What did you find out?
[Sidenote: a good example of a primitive LLM’s failure at reasoning. 
I don’t suffer AI’s gladly. ]
@Hank 
Which would you rather: 1. Pay an extra $100 and avoid the burned down house or 2. save the $100 but have a burned down house that insurance pays for?
I wonder how many kilowatt-hours you’ll spend answering that one?
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I got the point, but the high or low voltage by volts and the flame risks is a other topic then the final watts consumption.
Watt = Voltage x Amps
Final invoice you will get on watt - at least I get it that way.
Oh, man, this is better than a laughing kit upgrade.
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Oh, so glad. What was the point you got, by the way?
And would you rather save the $100? I mean, who wouldn’t? But do tell. I can’t sleep until you do.
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Sorry, Seems that some people have stopped posting as much as before. Possibly posting elsewhere now.
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Been following this guys progress since the beginning. This is what pushes 3d printing forward. Love this stuff.
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Is there yet a consumer version of a greater than three axis printer.