Strange artifacts on prints

I’m having some issues with ColorFabb PLA Economy Grey on two separate printers, using the same print profile supplied by ColorFabb for the Bambu X1C on Printables. The attached pictures are outputs from 2 separate X1Cs sitting next to one another, printing at the same time, with 2 different 2.2 kg spools of the same filament, using the same profile, getting the same results.

I would love to get feedback on the community on where to start looking. It kind of looks like a resonance issue with the two printers side by side but most likely it looks like an extrusion or settings issue on the filament.

I’m going to run another side by side test using the Generic PLA settings, but would love to get input from you guys.

ColorFabb settings - Generic PLA on left (haven’t used this), ColorFabb settings on right


At first glance, I’ve noted a 20 degrees Celsius difference between the left side (set at 220) and the right side ( set at 200).

What happens using only one printer?

I agree its a BIG difference but that was what ColorFabb had in their profile from Printables for use with X1C. I’ve bumped it to 210 on ColorFabb profile and then also am running the Bambu Generic PLA profile right now with both machines running simultaneously to see what happens.

@lkraus I do have sets of the Bambu anti-vibration feet coming to try and isolate the printers from one another a bit better. But if its a vibration issue, then I have ALL sorts of issues as I have 2 more X1Cs showing up and plan on adding 4 more to my fledgling farm early in the new year, all on the same rack.

Soooo… Up’d the temp on the ColorFabb profile and things look a bit better. So trying one more test before I roll it out into production. I guess I’ll have 2 different profiles for ColorFabb if this checks out, as some of their other colored filaments look good with the 200C temp… But the grey, not so much.

Happy for any other feedback from the community though.

In all fairness, you don’t actually trust these filament makers do you? You shouldn’t.

There’s only one way to get an accurate filament profile, that is to do you’re own testing. If you’re not already using it, try out Orca Slicer which is a fork of Bambu Studio. What it has that Bambu does not have is calibration utilities along with a great tutorial.

In my experience, are the top 3 tests I perform to not only verify the box but to also create a “Trusted Filament Profile”. I test every new filament out of the box and I record this in a spreadsheet for later reference as well as on the spool.

  1. Weight out of the box. I use a $12 kitchen scale. I write that weight directly onto the spool and then I weigh it when it is empty and wright that weight as the TARE on the spool.
  • Recording the TARE is very important. Because it will not only verify the amount you were shipped but it will also later allow you to record moisture the next time you purchase that brand. If you know you got a spool a second time around that is 20g heavier than the dried spool you used before, I can tell you that extra weight is likely not more PLA. :wink:

If I decide to dry it, I do a before and after weight. I generally don’t dry PLA but when I do, you would be surprised how much moisture is in a vacuum packed spool.

  1. Temperature tower. This is a must and it will highlight just how wrong some of the information printed on the box is.
  • Once I identify the temp I feel is the best compromise between curling and stringing, I mark the tower with a paint pen and also write the filament maker on the tower for later reference. If I store the spool, I keep the tower inside the bag.

  1. PA Calibration using Andrew Ellis’ PA Pattern tool. This is a hard tool to use in my opinion on other slicers because of the amount of parameters involved. But Orca, makes this just a couple of clicks.
  • If you’re not already doing this PA test, you really are cheating yourself. What’s amazing is how easy, fast and accurate it is to calibrate Pressure Advance using this technique.

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    (HINT) Use a cell phone camera in Macro Mode and zoom the image on your computer monitor to get an unambiguous view of what’s good and what’s not for really great dialed-in.

There are even more calibration tests that will allow you to dial-in some pretty amazing accuracy but unless I am doing structural parts that need to fit together, to be honest, that’s overkill.

But you have not reported any testing that says it IS a vibration problem. Try running the print (or part of it) with only one printer in operation. If it prints properly, then try to isolate vibrations. If you see the same defects, then you know vibration is not the issue and will not waste time & money trying to fix the wrong issue.