Strange outer wall lines with PA12-CF

Hello there!

I have a strange problem I never had before. I am using PA12-CF from SUNLU.
For some reasons some layers looks like they are shifted. And I dont know why.
I tried different settings alrerady. Outer lines first. Enabled cooling. Always the same problem but not always at the same position.

Here is another example. I printed both parts together. One is perfect. The left one has the same strange lines.

Any idea what could cause the issue?
The filament is dried already.

Thanks!

Here is the 3mf.
upload.3mf (816,6 KB)

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Something in your motion system is shifting during the print. Remove and reseat the nozzles first, check to see if you can move them by hand. Check your bed for any movement, make sure the tramming screws are even and that there is no debris caught under the PEI plate.

If that does not solve it, I would follow the guide below and do two things: 1. tighten the hot end ceramic base screws. 2. Remove the transportation screw from the bottom of the bed.

If everything above fails, i would try to print this item with the left nozzle instead of right. If the symptoms still occurs, then you know the problem is in the tool head carriage assembly or the bed.

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Oh, I forgot to mention that I only have the problem with PA12. Sorry about that! I’m also printing PETG and ABS with GF/CF without any problems using the same nozzle.

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That’s some serious benchy hulllines, matching the print time change 100%:

E.g.,:


This is rather hard to resolve. You need to:

  1. Avoid printing different parts which has large top surfaces in different heights. This would cause drastic layer time change, and it would make the other parts look like dogsh11t.
  2. Tune the cooling profile and reduce cooling when the layer time is too long. Allow the fan to completely stop (allow turning off the fan option)
  3. Slow down the print. Increase your chamber temperature to 65C max.
  4. Inner outter inner wall order probably wouldn’t help too much in this case, because your layer time difference is just too large. But you can still try.
  5. PA12 requires more drying than other filaments so though you have dried it, probably dry more.

PAs are very finicky on temperature and cooling. Might need to do your own tests. I spent about 1.5 days for my Fusrock PPA-CF to get a near perfect Benchy (but I still get shine changes).

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Thanks for the tip!

I’m already experimenting with cooling – do you have any good starting values?

What drives me crazy is that the issue even changes within the same layer. Take a look at this photo:


On one layer it shows up on the left, on another on the right… but it’s still the exact same layer height. I understand your point, but in this picture it just doesn’t make sense. Even if the filament is a bit wet – why would it only appear at certain layers instead of being more randomly spread across the whole print?

I also think it’s cooling-related, but the result looks completely random to me.

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It’s slightly cooling related, it’s way more related to time though. Your material is Doing Stuff© as it sits there, hotly printed and cooling down.

If the aesthetic is primary, Get your Patience Pants© on, and try this: (Pics for exemplar purpose only)

Set your process settings to your best attempt
Slice, preview
Find your LONGEST layer time (not layer1)


Filament → cooling
We are gonna use that longest layer as our limit. NO LAYER GOES FASTER.
Layer Time, both boxes - $YourLayerTimeValue
Slow Printing Down for better cooling - YES
Min Print speed - WAY DOWN
Dont slow down outer walls - CONSIDER IT

Re-slice

Keep your Patience Pants© on during the print, and see if you get a hull line.
Note that the areas of Z where there aren’t much to print will still fall below the static layer time. I seem to remember a feature to “park” the printhead for that, but it might have been prusaslicer only. /shrug

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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, I appreciate it!

I will give it a try tomorrow.

Errors accumulates. Previous errors would make the future layers harder to print.

It seems like this isn’t the solution, and I’m honestly clueless at this point. The print just took 12 hours for two parts of the same object at the same time – one part came out perfect, while the other shows those annoying lines again. Layer time was never less than 2 minutes.

Next, I’m planning to print the same model in PETG to check if the issue still appears, just to rule out any mechanical problems.

For PA I’m using this build plate:
https://princore.de/products/prinplate-extreme-1mm-variante-wahlen?variant=51465536241928

Do you think the build plate could be related to this? Maybe the surface is a bit too soft, making the problem look like Z-shifts?

Willd add pictures when the print is done completly.




Both parts were printed together on the same bed with 10 mm spacing. The first one looks great, but the part in the back shows those annoying layer issues again.

I don’t think it’s cooling-related—if that were the case, I’d expect both parts to show the same defects.

On the “good” part there is one bad layer, but you can ignore it. The AMS HT struggled during the night and the print was paused for about 2 hours at that point.

What’s up, need to print a heavy duty part, working with a P2S .4mm Tungsten nozzle, just got Sunlu PA12-CF, have it drying for the recommended time and heat, looking for any suggestions on the best settings to getting my going and not waste material.

APPRECIATE ANY GUIDANCE