will test too!!!
Thanks all
I doubt your wiper is bad already after only 5 weeks, but take a closer look at it to confirm that it still looks good. If you do a lot of prints with color changes, it will be used a lot.
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Did you use the setting from designer? So with the extra flowrate on first layer?
And i tested again, after a new calibration. Almost giving up 
No. I downloaded it on my laptop and sliced it on my own, used default bbl filament profiles with bbl filament (pla basic and matte). I have seen pretty shady settings from presliced files to not trust them anymore, always slice it yourself w your settings. I used the default 0.2mm standard profile instead of my own settings for the test for neutrality. Only thing I did differently bc of my obxidian nozzle is to change flush volumes (anything to black 400,black to white/yllw 700, multiplier at 1). The obxidian nozzle mixes the filament for better heating inside it and color/material changes require around 30-40% more filament bc of mixing so you should be fine w the same values and multiplier at 0,7
Ok!
i slice it to, but the designer gives some extra settings like below.
Will test it to with standard settings instead of higher flowrate ( causing less small gaps between the lines in colors/text).
See if its about settings of the designer.
He is using this
I doubt that it will improve your issue but you certainly can try.
Regarding âAvoid Crossing Wallsâ (other slicers âdo not cross perimetersâ) sounds great but the slicer does not see the color boundaries as a perimeter thus it will cross over previously printed areas of other colors and each crossing has a chance of strings being pulled to the other colors and to my knowledge there is no slicer setting (Yet) that does have that feature for path calculations therefore the main goal is to prevent the stringing from happening in the first place.
Even if you dried that black filament before, dry it again as moisture in the filament will increase stringing,
From reading here I see that you seem to have the issue only with the Black filament and none of the others thus would recommend to make a customized setting for that black filament only and play with the Z-Hop and Wipe parameters:
Do note that the Wipe function runs before the Z-Hop function in reality even though it is listed on the end in the settings.
If you are using the print profile from Makers World then you may look at increasing the Aux fan speed value.
Last recommendation is to actually change the color sequence with the white being the last in line, reason behind it is that it will print the 1st two layers of the white together without filament change in between. You can pause before the first layer white print to check if there are any strings in the area however there is still a chance that you get strings in that area after layer 2.
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thanks! Will run a test again in the morning with this!
Now having 13 Lego boxes already
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LOL well itâs your call and from my side I can understand if you donât want to print anymore LEGO light boxes 
As you see in your slicers preview the nozzle moves many times over these areas and every move has the potential to introduce contaminants.
As said before the slicer does not calculate the nozzle travel considering the different color areas as boundaries instead it only sees the outer wall perimeter of the whole layer as the boundary to move within if âAvoid crossing wallsâ is selected. Maybe in the future they will add a feature like âavoid crossing over different color areasâ to the slicer to reduce the chance of these types of failure with multi color prints.
I really hate lego at rhe moment:) But cant stand i cant fix this. Learning a lot now, so its not for nothing!
Haha câmon nothing can beat the stepping bare foot onto your kids Lego pieces at night hatred for LEGO.
You can try to make a sample part with some primitives in the slicer and/or can watch the Nozzle movements with different slicer settings in the preview window to get a bit of a feel what some of the settings do. Itâs an underused learning and trouble shooting tool that can save you lots of filament and time 
This is with your settings.
Next test( first on holiday for 3 weeks:) ) will be dry filament again. Have to buy a new dryerâŚ
Then a new e3d nozzle as somebody here mentioned.
Thanks all for nowâŚ
i give upâŚ
After 28 Lego prints i cant get the black (small) strings disappearâŚ
After more testing, new filamnets, new dryer, etc, etc, i still had the ââblobsââ.
Then i bought the e3d obxidian nozzle and after removing the nozzle i found the issue! I thougtâŚSee attachment for the ââleakedââ filament. I thougt that was the sisue.
See:
Yesterday with the brand new e3d obxidian nozzle, sameâŚAgain strings of black in whiteâŚ
That leak looks more like accumulation of material buildup from the nozzle tip itself and that will be improved w the anti stick coating of the obxidian. You increased your flush volumes by 20-30% after changing to obx from stock right? Is there a chance you live in germany bc w all this time spent on this issue, I can just print and send you a bunch of lego light boxes 
Does this stringing also happen in other models (other than lego and harley)? Could it be a model specific problem
Thanks for the offer, amazing to see how helpfull you and other are here. Living in netherlands btw. And its not about that specific Lego thing, but me and my son cant stand we cannot get this thing right. So its more about testing then we need the Lego lamp!
But again, thanks for the offer!
Ahhh forgot that!
Good one too.
So will do 2 more test today.
-
Lego one with 20-30% more flush volumes.
-
Other model with black and white in it.
I can also test the new models btw as I have some free time today after work. I have checked a previous lightbox (RedBull logo) I printed before my obx nozzle install and saw a couple of black filament strings inside the white parts as well. My best guess is still that when some stringing occasionally happens, obx nozzleâs anti-stick coating helps by not dragging it into another color inside the print
Thats interesting!
Would this be a good test for you and me?
(are you printing for fun or for business?)
That looks like a good stress test, I will print it in 3-4 hours.
Currently just printing for myself for fun. I like making custom parts for my other hobbies (RC mainly)
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Did You tryto print with White filament first and than black yellow red ?
I tried all combos possible:)
