Success printing PolyPropylene and PolyEthylene

Bambu Lab X Series Bambu Lab X1C
21

Thank you for this.

I have had great success with your settings using Form Futura Centaur Polypropylene filament (clear) on the Engineering Plate and using Magigoo PP as a bed adhesive. Polypropylene is very tough and temperature resistant. The brim appears completely transparent and is very hard to remove - a good thing!

I will be using it for some medical training aids which may be subject to autoclave temperatures.

Image: Pinard Horn {a type of stethoscope) Model Shown - MakerSenga by TeamTeamUSA on Thingiverse: MakerSenga by TeamTeamUSA - Thingiverse

Update: I have just printed some tiny pieces without using a brim - no problems with adhesion at all.

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22

What was the K Factor you had set for the filament?

23

I used a pressure advance of 0.02 in the filament settings.

24

Thank you very much for your post!

I imported and used these settings with my X1C on ERYONE PP filament, using textured PEI plate and Magigoo PP and it seems to work fine.
I have had quite a few early failed prints before because of the PP not sticking to the plate. I have not used the Magigoo before, though (only regular gluestick) so I’m not sure exactly what is what.

I have a few questions:

  1. Is there a way to force the filament profile to use in Bambu Studio? For reasons unknown to me your settings for PP has the material setup like “TPU” and since TPU is not supported (software blocked) by the AMS I can’t use this profile with AMS. Is there a reason it’s setup like TPU and not PP?
  2. It seems extremely slow to me. I printed a pretty big part now that took about 16h. The same part (with successful result) took less than 6h with PETG. Is the very slow speed an imporant key to success here? Maybe its OK to turn it up once the first few layers are stuck to the base plate?
  3. I followed your settings exactly now, but I’d prefer a thicker top/bottom and maybe 5-6 wall loops since the part need to be quite strong. Is that going to be good, bad or neutral for warping/other issues?

Thanks again for an informative post. I can’t believe the stock presets are so bad and that the filament manufacturers don’t have these setting profiles for download.

25

Hi guys!
In the past weeks I’ve been trying to print PP, always warping… this material is hard to print…

So, I have a X1C with PEI Textured plate.
I tried to fill the plate with PP glue from TESA, it realy helps, but for small prints.
I am trying to print something with 230x50x27mm and it always warp no matter what, even with 10mm brim or raft 3 layers… It is a 8hours print with 100g.

Now I have to try something different. I will tell you the results in the future…

But for now I found this article from magigoo about PP, check it:
magigoo .com/blog/3d-printing-polypropylene-why-and-how/

They also have a list with all the filaments they have tested to date and wich product you should use to better adhesion!
I will try the glue they sell for PP. I am using Fiberlogy, I like their materials.

26

Hi, I’m trying to print PP with my H2S. The first piece printed up to about 90%, then the filament (Fiberlogy PP) got stuck in the AMS. So I added the external spool, but I couldn’t print anything. When I print the piece, the filament gets tangled in the extruder, even with all the settings you posted. What am I missing? Do I need to loosen the locking screw on the tension control lever on the side?
Thanks

27

Hi, do I need to loosen the locking screw on the tension control lever on the side?

28

Have you tried clear packing tape? You basically have to dedicate a plate for PP but it’s worked for me in the past.

29

@DesignER Hey I was wondering about Sunlu’s PP filament quality?

I’ll probably just get some Eryone for now, but there is a chance we will be doing quite a number of very small prints (3/4 inch dia plugs). - Trying to iron things out before I get started. :slight_smile:

Thanks