I’ve printed for hundreds of hours on my P1S but about a week ago I suddenly began having print quality issues. I tried multiple models and filaments (Bambu and Generic) but nothing changed. I disassembled the extruder, cleaned it, greased the gears. Calibrated. No change. Then I replaced ALL of the PTFE tubes, including the ones in the AMS and the one inside the chamber. Calibrated. No change. I print PLA 90% of the time, but I have a hardened steel nozzle and extruder. Any ideas?
Could be many things. I see wet. (holes blown in the top surface from steam) How’s the side of the print look?
attach 3mf please of this specific print, problem unclear from just the photo
For consistency I’ve been reprinting from the existing Gcode and now that I am looking at some of my attempts, I am seeing some of the same defects in the same places… I am going to be very unhappy with myself if its a bad slice.
The first easiest thing for me is to change the hotend and see if the print improves.
You’ve listed lots of things done but none is a nozzle swap.
Hardened steel nozzles wear out, just not as quickly as stainless and are considered a consumable part.
Separate from moisture but that also looks like an issue.
I have other .4 hotends, but none of them have the thermometer assembly. I have a .2 and .6. The .2 appears to print tiny things very well. Might the .4 nozzel be partially clogged? It isnt old enough to be worn out.
It could be partially plugged. Look up cold pull on wiki.
Nozzles wearing out is also driven by material you run through nozzle such as carbon fiber or glass fiber impregnated materials.
You have two identical .4mm nozzles and and run PA6-CF through one, and plain PLA through the other, the PLA nozzle will last longer.
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Exactly. I print 90% PLA, about 6% PETG, and 4% ABS, thats why i dont think the nozzel can be worn out. Im trying to print the same thing with my .2 nozzle to see what i get.
Any guesses?
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Well this is unexpected. I dried the filament for 12 hours in my HT and then made a new slice and printed with a .2 nozzel. The surface problems are different, but still present. I’ve attached the .3mf file I used
Trouble.3mf (50.3 KB)
In my opinion, the ironing is an issue. But it could also be a flow-rate issue, or both.
Ironing is a pita to get it properly dialed in, costs ages and never seems to give the desired results.
But I would first start with a flow-rate calibration.
Personally on this part, I would print it upside down and don’t use raised text. If you don’t like the textured PEI look on the part, you can always consider getting a smooth PEI build plate for those cases.
I have given up on ironing a long time ago.
But i dont have ironing enabled. That is just the top surface
How many top layers and which sparse infill percentage and pattern are you using?
I checked the 3mf and didnt see any glaring errors. (disclaimer - i dont have bambu studio installed anymore)
It is a 100% infill print so make sure your flow RATE is very well calibrated (despite your gyroid infill settings, look at reality, its thin so your topLayers + bottomLayers = all your layers). There is no infill void for extra flow to hide in and errors of overextrusion will multiply
.14 layer height on .2 nozzle is pretty aggressive and might not get you what you want on a top layer, where it has to flatten that bead…
Your mileage may vary but drying for a certain amount of time may or may not get you “dry” filament. What was the humidity in the dryer when you took the filament out?
This was with the 0.4mm nozzle but similar look. I bet your filament just isn’t sufficiently dry.
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Trouble4.3mf (57.2 KB)
I resliced and printed again with the .4 nozzle and its almost perfect. Perhaps it was the moisture. I dried for 12 hours in the AMS-HT and then let it stay in there to feed filament during the print.
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