I designed a model with a support fin so it prints on a 45 degree angle. I’m just curious as to what size support tangs people are using? Prints great, but still leaves some marks on removal. Also I can’t seen to get the seam to line up nicely. Even before adding the fin support the seams just wouldn’t line up. any help would be appreciated.
I have read that you can improve the rib support like that: don’t let the connectors actually touch the part but keep a very small gap, e.g. 0,01mm. That way the outer wall of the part stays continuous but due to the very small gap, the support still has a sufficient connection to the part. Similar to a support interface, that sticks to the layers above but can be easily detached.
I think I tested it once and it worked surprisingly well. Maybe give it a go with a smaller test part.
I think OP’s method is using a purposely intersecting outer wall/bridge to connect those layers. Similar to how a kit card prints, but just done in 2.5D
It might be interesting to see if you can use arachne and a smaller minimum wall width, along with editing the model to decrease the “pinpoint that it strikes the model”s width by a little bit, so that it still creates a loop in and out, but its just ever so slightly weaker at the connection point, so itll come off easier on one side and not leave tags
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Yes, I know. I have used that too in a few models. I think I have first seen it in a video by Slant3D.
The problem with even tiny bridges is, that the outer loop is interrupted by going from the model into the bridge and back into the model. As soon as you remove the support by cutting the bridge, you have a scar on the model. You have those too in the kit cards, but there it is accepted as part of the experience.
The solution to that is to have separated loops in the model and in the bridge, but letting the loops touch enough so that they form a bond. Think of inner and outer walls in a model when printing slightly underextruded. Sometimes you can separate the walls with a little force. That is exactly the amount of adhesion you want between bridge and model. When you wiggle the support rib until it detaches, you are left with a very clean surface on the model.
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