I’ve got a largish print that has now failed twice in a similar way after a couple of hours. Specifically, tree supports are losing adhesion, breaking off, and the rest of the print isn’t doable.
My print bed has been thoroughly cleaned. In the video, the brim on one support starts to curl and then gets knocked over and a second one then follows.
Some searches suggest that I can’t set the brims to be bigger. Would increasing the bed temp 5 degrees be an appropriate option? Other suggestions?
Basic elegoo pla which I’ve had no other adhesion issues and which has been dried. Humidity in my AMS is appropriately low.
There are many possible causes for this. I will list the most common ones:
The plate has not been properly cleaned? Even though you wrote that you cleaned it, do it again. Check that you are using the right product: dishes soap - without perfume or additives such as “gentle on hands.”
It’s good that you chose gyroid, because there is infill that keeps hammering against the object. So you did the right thing. I’ll add a link at the end if you’re interested in the topic of infill. But yeah, the choice of infill is important.
Adjust the support: There are various options - for example, use strong instead of automatic.
Make the brim larger for both the object and the support.
In cases like this, it would be helpful to post a photo of what you want to print: perhaps reorienting the object would solve some of the problems? Without a photo, it’s impossible to say.
Now, here’s a general tip: if you want to print complex objects that are difficult to print, you might want to consider getting a plate with more adhesion.
However, 90% of such problems can be traced back to either the plate not being clean enough, or the wrong cleaning agent being used. The remaining 5% are due to incorrect settings, while the final 5% are more complicated.
Otherwise, this topic comes up again and again, so maybe reading a few tips will help you:
Thanks but cleaned the plate thoroughly (dawn power spray) before both failures. It’s a big print and I hadn’t previously printed anything that took more than 10 hours so I was quite careful.
Earlier forum and Reddit posts said adjusting brim size was in orca, not Bambu but that looks to now be incorrect. I’ll adjust that and some of the other suggestions you’ve made. In particular stronger supports. Thank you.
With such extremely narrow and winding support, it would probably be better to switch to normal. Of course, it takes more work to remove the support, but it ensures that the beard will be printed.
If you ask me, I would do it completely differently: Put the head on the back, i.e., turn it 90°. Then use the normal support, not tree. Then you have all the ugly spots on the back, but the front and face are perfect.
Just look at how much support there is - it can’t possibly fail. Sure, as I said, you may have to do a little reworking on the back, but the front doesn’t need any support at all.
Very interesting, thank you. I am still quite new so I appreciate the help. (Glad it wasn’t the plate too because I have been trying to read a lot before asking questions, that would have been embarrassing).
I had been using the adaptive layer ratio set to 1 (highest quality) but that, oddly decreases the printing time. I’m trying for high quality without switching to my 0.2 hotend, mainly to learn more (this will be donated for a silent auction and probably get 10 bucks). Other recommendations for improving quality (already did flow calibration and set k)?
Don’t worry - it’s better to ask one question too many than one too few. There’s no need to feel embarrassed. Of course, there will always be people who write strange comments, but 99% of them are extremely helpful. It doesn’t matter if the question is from a beginner or a professional.
