I have used PTEG and get this mess
I have printed 2 jobb before without any problem
can you give som tips
Sven Åke
Probably either lack of supports, a bed adhesion problem or both. Start by cleaning the print bed with dish soap and water.
3 Likes
Agree with @hyiger - it looks like you have adhesion issues, I can see corners of the parts are lifting in other places, too.
1 Like
And looking close there is fair stringing. Too high of filament moisture content can cause all of that - lack of adhesion to the build plate, lifting, and stringing.
Don’t know that it’s wet filament but I think it could be.
1 Like
Thanks
I will try to clean using isopropanol
Sven Åke
No, isopropanol is not what you should be using.
Isopropanol has some very specific use cases and caveats that need to be accounted for and we don’t recommend it as the general “go-to” for cleaning. It can actually make things worse in some cases.
As stated earlier, wash it with soap and water. Specifically, use hot water, dish soap, and a nylon brush. Dry with paper towel.
2 Likes
No… IPA dissolves the oil but does not remove it. when the IPA evaporates, it leaves the oil behind, just more thinly and evenly distributed on the plate.
The oil needs to be broken up, as a detergent functions, then rinsed away.
2 Likes
It’s not terribly different in that respect from soap but I suspect the difference is people make sure to rinse all the suds away which removes any oils (fingerprints, etc) with the suds.
With IPA there aren’t suds and people can’t see dissolved oils. Plus IPA costs a lot more than soap and water so people may not flood the “contaminated” IPA off the plate as they do with soap and water.
If all the contaminated IPA isn’t flooded off the plate, exactly - when it evaporates the oils in it stay behind.
And, it’s probably obvious but IPA vapors are flammable. Whenever washing it down a sink you need to use lots of water to dilute it down. There will still be vapors but hopefully not all in home plumbing and vents.
Thanks I will try that insted
Sven Åke
1 Like
I usually drink an IPA while I’m cleaning my plates 
2 Likes
IPA is good for a quick rubdown between prints. I also use it to remove adhesives from the plate when I need to switch to a different adhesive type (for example).
If you want a (reasonably) maintenance free plate, try the BIQU Cryogrip plates. They are awesome. I almost never have to clean it.
Please, do not pour Isopropyl alcohol down a drain.
IPAs, on the other hand, feel free.
Dry PETG at 55C for 6 hours. (even if it is fresh out of the bag from the manufacturer).
You can get away with not drying PLA, but you do need to dry PETG.
Wash your build plate with dawn dish soap, and rinse well. Then do it again. Then dry with a clean paper towell and don’t touch the build plate surface with your fingers after that.
In your slicer, make sure you have selected the right build plate, so that your G-Code will tell the printer to set the right temperature for good adhesion on that surface.
In your slicer when sending the print to the printer, make sure you have the bed levelling turned on. This calibrates z-offset properly.
For PETG, I usually take the lid off the top of the printer (to prevent heat creep clogs), but leave the printer front door closed and I have a diverter on the aux fan to send the air up rather than at the print bed.
You could turn up the build plate temp 5 degrees more. You could bump up the first layer nozzle temp a few degrees and slightly lower the first layer print speeds.
There are other things you could do (mouse ears, brims, draft shields), but for those small parts you are showing? That should be good without those.