Out of curiosity, I ordered a cool super tack plate (a Glacier copy) from Temu. It cost 15€ so I thought I’d give it a go.
Result: it STICKS! Holy crap did it stick. I almost had to fold it in half to get the PLA prints off of it. But it seems they sprayed it with some funky glue because the print looked horrible. Full of some residue. Might have to give it a good scrub and try a print again.
The freezer is your friend. It takes less than 10 minutes. Then you can easily remove it without damaging the plate. 
These are stress marks, often happens when pulling parts off before the plate is allowed to cool down. These newer plates seem to hold even after cooling down.
@RetroSharky’s suggestion of putting it a freezer works. I usually lower the bed temp to help with this as well. You can use a heat gun on the surface pf the part with the stress marks and that will remove them.
I gave it a good soap wash with luke warm water and the worst stickiness disappeared. Now it’s almost as good as Bambu’s original Cool Plate. And it has a very small texture on it so I kinda like it so far.
Time will tell how it works after a 100 prints.
If those are stress marks, and it looks like they are, they will go away if you pass a jet lighter over the print quickly.
Could you send the link of the plate? Now I want to try it too!
Wash this, wash that, freeze this, freeze that, what ever happened to “the printer should just work”?
I’m not going to say plates that need freezing are trash, because they have value to people who actually LIKE these weird rituals. And 15 euros for build plate is very cheap, assuming it lasts.
(TBH a little bit of washing is required, sadly this is un-solved problem. There is still no convenient plate washing machine I can buy that’s small enough to fit next to the printer)
mopar filters are just mahle filters, made in austria. tah dah !
Jokes aside, since I have a glacier too, I wonder if yours will last longer than mine. The bed leveling probes cause the plate to dig down to the metal. I can see the steel glinting at almost every initial nozzle contact point. This clearly poses a leveling issue, but I don’t feel the need to create an offset rule (yet)
Yeah, well I bought my second plate from Bambu Labs. It was supposed to be a dual surface plate. Textured on one side and PEI (smooth) on the reverse.
Kinda disappointed. It’s fine, and it sez Bambu Labs, but my printer does not read it like my original. BL’s suggestion, turn off the auto identification for the plate. 
Not the right answer really.
The plate does work, my P2S still tries to identify the build plate as it is going through its gyrations to start, but that wasn’t what I wanted from the purchase. I expected a plate from Bambu to work with my Bambu printer.
If/when I get another plate, I may as well just drop the Brand Loyalty. I’ve been finding my generic excursions in filaments from Best Buy to be paying off dividends in getting 2 spools for the price of one genuine Bambu.
I think much of this stuff comes from the same barn, just gets branded as it rolls off the line.
