Things to Keep in Mind When Developing with CyberBrick Core

MakerWorld CyberBrick
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When developing with the CyberBrick Core and Shield, it’s common to run into issues like insufficient power or module instability, which can affect both system stability and device performance. This guide outlines typical problems and practical solutions to help streamline your development process and avoid common pitfalls.

USB-C Alone Can’t Deliver Enough Power

The CyberBrick Core can be powered via USB-C for programming and basic testing. However, once the Core is connected to the Shield, relying solely on USB-C can cause:

  • Servo motors not responding
  • LEDs flickering erratically
  • Unexpected resets during operation

This is because the CyberBrick Core only accepts 5V USB-C input, which is not sufficient to power the Shield. The Shield requires a supply voltage in the range of DC 4.5V to 12.6V, and when driving motors or other high-power components, the 5V input becomes inadequate. This voltage shortfall can lead to unstable behavior or system malfunction.

Recommended fix: Use an external power source (preferably a lithium battery) to ensure stable power for the Shield.

Always Use an External Battery During Testing!

When running code tests with the Core mounted on the Shield, you must also connect a battery pack or lithium battery module. Without it, you might notice:

  • Code runs without errors, but the motors don’t respond
  • The device powers off suddenly during motion
  • PWM signals are sent, but nothing reacts

These symptoms mean the Core is powered, but there’s not enough juice to drive the peripherals.

Battery Voltage & Selection Tips

You can power the CyberBrick setup using a AAA battery holder, but the type and voltage of your batteries have a direct impact on Shield stability and functionality. Here are some key things to keep in mind:

  • Three AAA batteries in series can theoretically provide 4.5V, which meets the Shield’s minimum power requirement. However, voltage tends to drop quickly during use, limiting battery life.
  • Low-voltage batteries like NiMH may not supply enough power to start the Shield or run the servo motors.
Battery Type Nominal Voltage (per cell) Max Voltage (3 cells in series) Notes
Alkaline 1.5V 4.5V Fresh batteries deliver 1.5V
Zinc-Carbon 1.5V 4.5V Weaker current delivery
NiMH (Rechargeable) 1.2V 3.6V (up to ~4.2V fully charged) Peaks at ~1.4V when full, then stabilizes at 1.2V
Lithium Iron (LiFeS2) 1.5V 4.5V High current output, ideal for power-hungry components

Tip: For stable long-term power, especially for motors, use 18650 lithium batteries (2S, 7.4V) with a protection module. This offers excellent voltage stability and runtime.

Original article:
CyberBrick Core 開發注意事項

7 Likes
Cyberbrick forklift faild pairing after upload the files what i missing?
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Please do not spread misinformation !
USB-C standards allow for Voltages of up to 48V using the latest standards.
The inability of the Cyberbrick Core to utilise what every standard USB-C charger is able to provide is a cost saving measure, nothing more :wink:
It is not problem at all to power whatever device using USB - IF the manufacturer spends the money to support it…

Stating USB-C is only good for 5V is like saying that the sun spins around Earth - no offence…

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Sorry, English is not my first language, so I may not have explained myself clearly.
I should have phrased it differently, sorry for the confusion.

Here is the revised content I made.

This is because the CyberBrick Core only accepts 5V USB-C input, which is not sufficient to power the Shield. The Shield requires a supply voltage in the range of DC 4.5V to 12.6V, and when driving motors or other high-power components, the 5V input becomes inadequate. This voltage shortfall can lead to unstable behavior or system malfunction.

2 Likes
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That makes much more sense and is line with the flawed hardware specs :wink:
I like the general idea and hope that there will be more to come but IMHO a USB-C port on hardware like this SHOULD be designed to accept the required power AND to provide the charging for a connected battery pack.
I hope that maybe a future revision or slightly larger base module will allow for this.
Just makes things much easier.

Thanks for clarifying the details !

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The remote really needs more that 4.5V, its totally unusable via 3x AAA - I Finally figured out a easy way to create a USB Rechargeable Battery CyberBrick Remote - Hope it can helps

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I find this difficult to believe. Literally ALL of the circuits in the remote run off the VR in the core, which produces 3.0V. The VR is a low drop out regulator so 1.5V of margin is plenty. Now what IS true is that 3 AAA batteries will drain very quickly running a remote. So more mAH would help a lot.

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I like and have printed a few of these.

I like the rechargeable battery, relatively inexpensive to purchase another one when buying a CyberBrick kit.

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There have been more than a few reports of connectivity difficulties when using the battery pack.

This doesn’t mean that they all fail, but that combined with the benefits the Li-ion battery delivers means I always design for that.

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Well, I suppose we could consult the published schematic for the Transmitter & core boards. :thinking:

Oh wait! It hasn’t BEEN published yet, has it? :rofl:

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I wasn’t saying you were wrong, just pointing out issues others have shared and my personal view.

Yeah, that too.

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My house is stocked with rechargeable batteries, and I realized it’s been an issue for me and the cyberbrick stuff.

When I get to the controller portion of my crane model, I’m gonna model it to use the 7.4v rechargeable battery they sell.

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IFF the core uses a switching regulator to produce 3V then a higher input voltage will help. If it’s a linear regulator, it won’t. mAH is all that matters in that case.

However, this does bring up an interesting point, a switching regulator would require a higher voltage margin than a low drop out linear regulator and this MIGHT be why 3 alkaline AAA don’t work very well. Alkaline batteries fall off to a much lower voltage with a longer tail than Lithium cells which hold a higher voltage for a longer period and then falls off sharply. (And it might be why I haven’t noticed this problem since I only use Lithium AAA batteries.)

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I’m using Eneloops, which are NiMH, and they are 1.2v per a cell,

I have a ton of Eneloops and EBL equivalents. My general experience with rechargeable batteries like that is that they work fine in most devices, but every once in awhile there’s a device, like the cyberbrick, where it doesn’t work so well with that slightly lower base voltage.

A fresh set of alkalines tends to work better, but as you mention, the voltage drop off will still mess things up. It’s just unfortunate because with like the NiHMs, I just don’t think they are suitable because of their slightly lower voltage out the gate.

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I arrived at this thread with the same trouble with Eneloops as you. Now I really wonder why the standard battery compartment for this isn’t 4 x AAA. That would give a nominal 4.8V for NiMH rechargeable and 6V for other AAA. Would the 6V (or closer to 7V for fresh Alkaline) be too much or is it just a design oversight?

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Ran into the same issue, even tried ordering some amazon basic Alkaline 1.5v AAA but still no dice with 3 servos attached. Works instantly using the official 7.4V 800mAh Li-ion pack. As already stated - it basically is unusable via 3x AAA.

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The AAA battery option is dumb, it wastes batteries, makes the usage experience very poor for new users and often doesn’t work or simply drains excessively fast.

So I ordered an extra:

  • Li-ion battery
  • Switch
  • LED Hub ^^
  • 2 x LEDs ^^

For each kit I have bought, be they a single or dual.

These are a must as they are missing from the official products.

^^ You need two hubs and eight LEDs to provide headlights, brake lights and four indicators. I do this for most of my models, or I use 8 for other purposes. 8 LEDs is far too restrictive as it is, getting just four with the single or 3 each for the double is dumb.

I also print a Li-ion adapter for the official remote when using that one rather than my own remotes which are customised to my model’s features.

I now mostly buy the single packs as they tend to work out cheaper after buying yet more things to turn them into full workable kits.

I also buy an extra:

  • Single axis joystick

This is because I have focused on designing tank style steering for most of my own designs.