Thungsten Carbide Hotend 0.4 make sense?

I wonder what the point is in offering an ultra-hardened tungsten carbide hot end exclusively in .4 mm and then excluding almost all abrasive materials for this size? Does anyone have an explanation for this?

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They don’t stop you from using 0.4 Tungsten Carbide for abrasive filaments. They only “Do not recommend” you to use HF version, for fibre reinforced filaments. The internal design of the hotends are different and HF hotends used a CHT-alike design, which made it slightly more prone to clogging and most importantly, harder to clean once clogged.

And tbh, I’ve almost ran HF 0.4 nozzles exclusively and never had any real issue with clogging since launch, but there’s always a risk.

The only non-compatible filaments are softer TPUs, because of the way CHT hotends work, it’s a nono for 85A and 90A.

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So far I have run PETG-CF, ASA-CF, PA6-CF, PAHT-CF and PPA-CF through a 0.4mm standard nozzle without any problems.

My 2 Tungsten Carbide versions just arrived and will go in soon. No HF versions though.

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About 50% of my printing is ABS-GF and PAHT-CF, also some light PPA-CF and PPS-CF. I always use 0.4HF nozzles for the better layer adhesion. 10k hours on bambu printers, 2500 on H2D, never once had a clog with those filaments.

I have some tungsten HF nozzles coming as well. Im guessing 0.6 and 0.8 sizes will be available shorty as well. 0.4 is probably their best seller, hence the first to be released.

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Hallo and thank you for your feedback.
I know that it works with .4. But does it make sense to offer a hotend with this diameter (and no other option) and not include a recommendation in the specifications for the application for which it was created?

Pretty fun to say this sentence out loud.

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Sorry, en is not my native language.

Sorry, I was just being a goof ball. You didnt say anything wrong. You seem to type in english better than me and I"m american.

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You have double the time on your H2D then I have and I have what many are having, layer shift. Lots of work done on this machine and only this evening have I been able to achieve a stable x-axis layer on a primitive cube. I always get a shift in the y-axis on the first layer change. If I turn off first layer inspection I can get away with a single color which limits what this machine was made for makes me wonder if the sensor for the offset is messed up. Anyway someone unrelated but you have a lot of hours on a machine it seems to behaving well. I maintain mine I just went over everything with a fine tooth comb tightening readjusting even remove some components that might have been an issue just for test purposes for the layers shift that I am dealing with. Filament cutters the wiper assembly.

Thats an old post. I had 4000+ hours on my H2D when i sold it. I have 2200+ on H2C now with no major issues with either one. Good luck getting your problem solved.

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