Tips for printing PET-CF on my H2D?

I’m about to start some projects using Bambu’s PET-CF with my H2D. I used to work with Ultimaker Cura, so the Bambu Studio setup is still pretty new to me. (Actually the whole Bambu / ASM experience is new to me!)

Since PET-CF is quite pricey, I’d really like to minimize waste. Does anyone have tips or advice to help me get started?

Thank you for any info in this.

It should be pretty straight forward with H2D, I dont foresee any issues. Just dry it appropriately (temp + time) and slow down the print speeds for outer walls to maybe 60mm/s.

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Thanks @maxim3D . I’ll give it a go, and report back if things go bad :slight_smile:

Should point out Not AMS compatible.

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One MASSIVE tip when doing prints in an expensive filament, is to look through the geometry and figure out if there is a section that is going to be difficult. Maybe, steep overhangs, thin walls, tough supported sections, etc. Once you find them, cut the model in the slicer and only print the tough section until you are comfortable you’ve got the result you’d like. This way you don’t waste a ton of filament on the easy parts only to find the hard part doesn’t print well.

For example, I’m currently working on a model that has TPU and PLA features (print in place TPU detent for a normal 1/4 bit driver). So instead of waiting 2 hours to see if it printed well, I simply cut the model down to the trouble point and test that quick section.


This allows me to test really quickly and without using a ton of wasted filament.

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@partferret yes as mentioned on the info page for PET-CF.

@just4memike . Thank you. That is a good tip.
The project I’m doing are an ease print (some boxes), so not really needed this time.

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Fiberon PET CF-17 prints wonderful on my X1C.

0.4 nozzle
300 degree hotend
75 bed
200 mm/s wall & infill

Ultra fine layers will cause rough surface, due to fibers.

-uman

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Small update:

I just finished my first PET-CF print, and it printed beautifully!
Absolutely no issues at all (except that it smells really bad).

Since it was Bambu Lab’s PET-CF, I used their filament settings.
Next will be Polymaker – Fiberon PET CF-17, using the settings suggested by @uman.

I have learned PET-CF is super week compared to other materials if it is not annealed afterwords. Mechanical parts I would print in PETG-CF were strong and never failed, I had a few of the same parts fail with PET-CF. After annealing PET-CF is it really really strong. Make sure to anneal. I normally don’t anneal anything made on the 3d Printer.

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I’m on an X1C. The default Outerwall speed is 200mm/s. What is the benefit of slowing down to 60mm/s as you stated? (Just curious, I’m still learning on tweaking for these more advanced filaments)

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Slowing down outer wall is just to improve the visible surface quality. If you leave it at full speed, it will print at the very edge of its flow rate and will look sub-optimal.

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That’s interesting that it smells bad to you. I can’t smell PET-CF at all. Pet and PETG are odorless to me where as pla stinks up the whole house lol

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Maybe it was because it was the 1st time using it at this high temperature. Building plate was 100°c

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That could be it. Did it kick on the chamber heater too? If so, that’s definitely where the smell came from.

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Yes it did… Mystery solved :slight_smile:

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