I’m trying to print PA6-CF with a .8mm hardened nozzle. I tried to manual calibrate the filament by doing flow dynamics to the new nozzle but the test print shows no difference in the lines. All of the lines were horrible. I haven’t done the flow rate yet. My question is has anyone ever attempted to print using this combination? Is it even possible to get a decent quality print? I could post some pictures later, but this is more of a general question of whether or not I’m trying to do something that isn’t possible I was using a .4 mm nozzle and everything was printing fine up until the point that it got clogged or damaged so I switched out to the only other hardened nozzle I have and I’ve been having nothing but problems. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Sorry I know its not what you asked, but there is little advantage to using a 0.8mm nozzle for nylon. It wont print any faster than 0.6mm as its limited by the flow rate. If you dont need the extra high layer height possible with the 0.8mm nozzle, I would just use a 0.6mm nozzle. In general the 0.8mm bambu profiles are an afterthought and not very well tuned.
Thanks for that it’s kinda what I wanted to hear. I wasn’t looking for any advantage just wanted to continue printing the parts that I need while I wait for my new .4 nozzle to come in the mail. I don’t really need any good quality print, but I just can’t get this to work at all.
The 0.6mm can flow a bit better than 0.4mm with some materials (especially the HF nozzles) but there is little use for the 0.8 nozzle. People use it for stronger vase mode prints, but otherwise its pretty useless.
Thank you I don’t wanna waste my time or filament trying to calibrate this nozzle. If it’s a losing battle, I appreciate the response.
Its interesting that E3D does not even make a HF 0.8mm obxidian nozzles for bambu X1/P1 as they are not very useful or popular.
The .8 will not give you a higher flow, but it will give you wider and thicker lines, potentially improving mechanical performance.
As for the calibration, the .8 is said to be pretty difficult to calibrate successfully. Do “flow” before going for “flow dynamics” and you may want to start off with the higher end of retract and retract speed settings from the TDS.
Thank you for that info I may give it a try.
I found the 0.8 HF nozzle (H2D) gave very good quality prints, but the standard flow 0.8 had bad wall quality with lots of zits and imperfections on the walls.