Ok Guys, here are todays finding and i am completely lost with this.
So i modified my model to have a flat bottom to get rid of the chamfer and i got rid of the top stuff to just print the problem area.
I ran my Bambu PETG Filament profile which is at a 0.96 flow ratio and 11mm3/s max volumentric speed.
Max print speed is 80mm/s
Nozzle is at 255 first and 260 all others (tried earlier to drop it by 5 but no diff)
Bed temp at 75
Layer lines at 0.16 Can someonetell me how to attacehd the 3mf file here for anyone that want to try it.
All were near the same other than 4 and 6.
What i observed is that it prints the first top layer fine (the bridging layer over the infill) and then when it starts the next layer it is slightly overhaning the wall.
Also another observation is yes its all the way around however it in more prevalent on the Left front and the right rea. The right font is the least and actually near nothing for the number 6 test which was the OUter inner test.
Please someone try print this 3mf with bambu petg and give me your thought.
It looks a bit as if the infill goes way over the outer wall.
At such low layer heights it is quite possible that a slow infill speed results in softening of the previous layer.
It the nozzle overshoots on the wall it pushes it a bit and this increases along the way and with the set overlap.
Just to prove my suspicion wrong:
Can you try a quick one with the infill/wall overlap reduced to 8% or lower ?
Since you asked so nicely: YOU ARE CRAZY !
Did that help ?
No offence but this make no sense at all.
The walls should be placed on top of the previous wall layer unless the model would go wider there.
Since the model does not this…
Are you using this one wall only option for the top ?
Either way, change it to see it it makes a difference.
And cut the bottom of the model to save some filament and time
Agreed. I think you can still loose the skirt but that is not important here.
I think that this may be behind some of the improvements you are seeing. But I agree that further lowering the speeds is unlikely to gain enough. You should however not increase speeds either.
I’d guess that this points towards the wall shrinking theory being behind the top layer overhang. PETG has a higher thermal conductivity than PLA, reinforcing
You could try a fine or extra fine print, i.e. layer height of 0.08. The prupose is not to double the resolution but to reduce the heat input by a factor of 8 while maintaining nozzle temp for layer adhesion. That will lead to a much more even cooldown.
I have also not had much luck with gyroid infill as it is always soft in one direction. Honeycomb may use more material, but it gives a more even strength distribution and homogeneous upper surface support.
I have no idea if this works but you may be able to upload it straight from the slicer to MakerWorld and store it as a private/draft model. If you share the url and I can access it through that (big if, I have no clue if that works), I could try it out tonight.
OK I HAVE DONE A TEST WITH A STANDARD QUBE WITH MY SAME SETTINGS.
sorry for the caps.
Have a look. Nothing is wrong with the walls. I did this test to see if maybe there was an issue with the Z height in that location as i have printed 100s of these same mosel in the same location of the build plate.
im thinking is that a location thing on the build plate or is this a problem with the model???
Unfortunately, we learned that makerworld links can only work if the model is indeed published. I get the 404 error and can not download and try. Are you able to make the file available through G-Drive.
Well, the model does not look so tricky. Possible of course, but I’d be surprised to be honest. Regarding the location thing, if you have and are using an AUX-fan that could be a factor. I have also had an example of a tricky PETG print failing when close to the poop chute with the chamber fan on and the printer living in the cooler shed during autumn. Looked like a draft from the poop-chute to the chamber fan inlet. Both of these failure cases would however show a visible directionality. They’d be much worse on the side facing the draft. From the pic’s and descriptions, I may have overlooked that though.
Did you change anything else, or just the location on the build plate and using a primitive rahter than the model?
EDIT: i did not see the link originally , but the link did not work for me probably you need to add user or something
@AK-WA You can publish it in Makerworld and send a link, we did that with some one else, you can shere it as semi private . Check it out
I will be happy to print for You and try , probably now if you are quick. Or over the weekend , eg probably your Friday or Saturday . And With makerword i can send yo back 3mf Print file on the same model , but … no PA(K) and probably TEMP/FLOW/PA are different anyway
Another option is if you have shared folder like google drive you can use that and send a link
I do not see what PA(K) you used in your description , this will not be in the 3MF unless you added it and it will be stripped by Makerworld any way
All of your prints point to not well tunned or wet filament
I so know the feeling 
