I am using P1S with default TPU-90 Settings at 0.20mm layer height.
The TPU-90A spool has been dried for 8 hours before use, and sits externally on rollers with bearings.
This is the best Benchy I have achieved.
What could be going wrong?
I am using P1S with default TPU-90 Settings at 0.20mm layer height.
The TPU-90A spool has been dried for 8 hours before use, and sits externally on rollers with bearings.
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Hi! Sorry to hear that the TPU isn’t working.
My best recommendation as far as troubleshooting is, try to swap out filament to PLA, run the slicer with PLA settings, and print the model. If this print is functional, we can rule out most mechanical issues.
This isn’t much of a final solution, but it should help you find one. I will come back to this thread via notifications to see if I can provide help after this.
I wish you (and the printer) good luck!
~Nathan
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Hey!
I have working prints with TPU-95A, both generic and bambu brand. The printer works fine and has a maintenace schedule.
Ah, so you can print with a harder TPU?
From what I can tell, other people have also had issues printing in TPU-90A, being a softer filament.
Do you have any indication that the extruder gear is slipping? For example, if you take the filament out, is it scarred? Or can you see the filament spool not rotating as expected while printing?
Just because of the soft material, my guess is the extruder gear (which grips the filament) is not gripping hard enough. This could be a reason that there is ghosting around the print. That is only my suspicion though, and I cannot say for sure that is the issue.
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Did you read and follow the printing guide?
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Be sure that there are no drags on the filament path. If it is dragging a little, its possible the stretch is leading to under extrusion.
Overall… it does look like a print that is printing too fast. Make sure you are using the correct filament profile.
Also, just to confirm, this wasn’t printed with the SD card’s Benchy right?
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@Fr33lab @RapidTM
The print works in PLA, Ive been using the printer with every other filament including TPU-95A generic and Bambu Brand 95A-HF.
I have checked the extruder gear after starting another benchy and it isnt slipping, the filament strand looks fine after unloading. The spool spins freely during print. No yanking or anything, it rotates consistently.
The extruder assembly has been taken apart and checked for any goober. I am using Hardened steel gears and 0.4 nozzle.
I have read the print guide thoroughly before even making the benchy in the image. I have even tried the procedures for TPU-85A.
There is no hard turns for the filament to take and even the bearings for the filament spool holder have WD-40.
I am not using the SD card’s Benchy. I am using Bambu Studio with a benchy on default 0.20mm TPU-90A settings. I have also tried the “Perfect TPU Profile” and that didn’t work with their settings.
Also the filament is dried before each use, and actively dried during print.
I have exhausted everything I could think of, and a support ticket resulted in “Have you checked our guide” after I mentioned I did in the report.
Is there anything else under the sun to try?
That… Is literally almost everything I would’ve recommended. I have one more thing that could be wrong, but it is a very long shot especially considering your printer is fine with other materials.
What firmware version are you on?
Recently, many people have had issues with firmware version 1.08.00, ranging minor surface defects on one side of a print, to the printer not even starting. I also had issues with my printer related to this specific firmware update.
Assuming you’re on version 1.08.00, I would revert to version 1.07.00. These steps worked for me
1. Downgrade to Version 1.07.00
a. Turn the printer on using the switch on the back.
b. Go into your printer in Bambu Handy
c. Press the settings icon in the top-right (three lines stacked on top of each other)
d. Tap firmware
e. Tap whatever entry says “1.07.00”
f. Wait for download and try a print. Make sure to never hit the update dialogue on the printer screen when powering on.
2. If that doesn’t work, the next step is a Factory Reset
You will loose all on-board flow rate and vibration compensation data. The printer will do its automatic calibration, then you might want to do its secondary calibration in settings.
a. With the new firmware version installed, go into the settings on the printer and tap factory reset. Confirm in the dialogue and wait.
b. Recalibrate using the printers CALIBRATION function in settings.
I really hope this works, it’s is a long shot, but if you’re willing to loose all on-board settings and have time to spare, it may be worth it.
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Have you tried to do multiple Cold pulls on that nozzle. I have found even after doing entire prints with TPU I can do a cold pull after(if I didn’t do one before) and get bits of other filaments out of the nozzle. I now do cold pulls before all TPU printing. Do cold pulls with white PLA until the cold pull looks clean. I don’t know if the P1S offers it but the H2D has a semi automated Cold pull procedure in the toolbox menu. And it works really good.
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@Parkwad Definitely try a factory reset and a cold pull, but I’m always curious of any mods you have put on the machine. Most of us are assuming there are none, but more often than not, there are at least one of two. So, please list any mods that may be on the machine.
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I was running version originally 1.07, now I’m going to try 1.08 before rolling it back further or factory resetting.
I have no software/gcode mods. For hardware, I tried feeding from a spool holder that held through the middle, and then rollers with ball bearings.
Other than that, I have the usual anti-vibration feet and some dust covers on the inside. Nothing on the head, gears, or belts. I am using hardened 0.4mm nozzle and extruder gears.
Next attempt full parameters:
-Dry the filament again (its kept in drybags with desiccant when not in use)
-Start with cold pulls, this is a new concept for me.
^(edit) I have done cold pulls, the word is new for me
-Use version 1.08 (previously used 1.07)
-With feeding not appearing to be an issue. I am going to have filament run a little less freely, but easier to repeat and I dont have to set up each time.
Filament will run: Eibos Easdry (instead of rollers) → PTFE Tube → Machine’s PTFE port on the back → nozzle.
The curves will be wide. This way I dont have to rearage and lift the lid and feed directly.
-Ill then run an attatched 3mf file. It has default settings for Bambu TPU-90A on default 0.20mm Standard.
Parkwad-3DBenchy-TPU90A.3mf (2.5 MB)
I will update the result Benchy. (or if it starts to look bad, partly-done benchy)
Did 4 cold pulls, saw nothing after 2 but did 2 extra.
The Eibos setup worked, filament fed consistently without the gear slipping.
^The buffer is not connected. The Dryer is fed to the inlet on the back
It fed fine during manually pressing the extrusion button
An interesting note is the purge line looks completely fine.
I am going to try another attempt with all speed settings halved
(It didn’t work)
I have no other ideas.
I’m sorry we couldn’t be of more help! I hope someone with more knowledge comes by and checks this topic out.
Good luck! (If I have any more ideas, I’ll make sure to come back to this if unsolved)
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I could remove the assembly and adjust and reinstall, would you think it is holding on too tight or not tight enough?
What I find interesting is the layers where the layer time is short, worked the best in your benchy. Oddly, anything in the 20 seconds and lower is printing decent, and anything in the 30 secs+ range is really bad (clogged nozzle-like). I can’t put my finger on a reason for it though. 5-10 seconds difference in the layer shouldn’t make this large of a difference. But I do think this is telling us something, even if it is not the actual problem.
The yellow and green areas appear to correspond to the problem areas where the orange areas appear to be better areas on the print.
It may be just a coincidence, but I tend to not discard these type of correlations and just let them sit in the background of the troubleshooting process, and use it as a cross validation for other symptoms.
One other thing to try for the sake of testing. Change the filament’s max flow rate to the same value of the sections the worked well. In this case I find the maroon/pink sections printed well, at 0.8mm - 1.2mm/s3. I know it sucks and is not a fix, but I think it could be useful to figure out what is going on.
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This is very interesting and I have just started a print with the max volumetric speed set to 1.2mm^3/s.
The print is looking surprisingly good!
Its disappointing to have a benchy take almost 3 hours, seeing as how my end goal is the whaleberry shoes lol. However, what isn’t disappointing is how this looks to be working.
The next question is why doesn’t the default 2.8mm work and is there a way to get it to?
After this, I will try other settings and find a sweet spot maybe?
Parkwad-3DBenchy-TPU90A_1.2mms3.3mf (2.5 MB)
^CURRENT (from screenshot)
Next I will try a 2.0mm^3/s to test the upper limit.
Parkwad-3DBenchy-TPU90A_2.0mms3.3mf (2.5 MB)
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What nozzle size are you using?
I have issues with 0.4mm, but 0.6mm is perfectly fine.
This worked out much better.
However, where the layer time increased, it started having the issue again.
The steering wheel also had the issue, along with the base of the chimney.
Would the solution be a different setting, or once again lowering the max volumetric speed?
also @MalcTheOracle I am using 0.4mm
I don’t think your issue is a setting. With settings, I believe the best you can do is a band aid. It seems like a hardware problem somewhere. It could be the filament. Is that your only roll of the 90A? If so, double check its diameter, if you have a good set of calipers (should be really close to 1.75mm). Also inspect it for foreign substances.
One other thing you can try, use the 85A printing method (spool held above the toolhead and fed in to the toolhead with no PTFE tube). I would do that test at regular 90A profile speeds. If that works well, you’ll know the issue is in the PTFE path. See the GIF below.
Also, I don’t remember anyone mentioning it, but when your prints look clogged, make sure you are opening up the top and door. Many times we can do without opening it up, but if you are having an issue make sure it is open.