Flow Ratio: 1
Max Volumetric speed: 3.2
Temp: 240
Textured PEI plate: 45 degrees
What Bambu needs to do to keep up the āsimple to useā paradigm is to account for nozzle types and adjust whatever parameters they need to. Even if this means max volumetric flow - unfortunately the way they config nozzles they donāt make any distinction between hardened steel and any other type of material. I canāt make a 0.4 hardened steel profile with one max volumetric flow, and another for 0.4 copper or brass or whatever with a different volumetric flow.
Basically there needs to be config branches at not only printer and nozzle size, but nozzle material as well.
Why should they? Bambu doesnāt make copper or brass nozzles. 
The only difference might be the rate each melts plastic. You already have control over that at the filament level. If you need a custom profile, create it.
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If you have a Bambu 0.4 stainless steel and 0.4 hardened steel nozzle then they will share all settings of a filament. You would have to duplicate an existing 0.4 filament profile and give it a new name thereby doubling the number of filament profiles you have and that will appear in any UI where you select filament.
Currently, Bambu doesnāt have 0.4 stainless steel hot end. The stainless steel hot end is a 0.2mm. In any case, stainless and hardened should have the same heat transfer. The difference is in the profiles is at what temperature the filament is printed and the expected flow. Expansion filaments like the Bambu Aero and the Colorfabb VarioShore TPU could have 9-10 profiles each. I prefer to modify the filament profile as I need it. For the most part, Iām running the TPU at a temperature that gives the softest end results, so I have only one profile for the VarioShore. I have other TPUs that are fixed temperature filaments, but they are higher on the Durometer scale.
These printers come with a 0.4mm stainless steel hot-end supplied with the printer as the installed hot-end.
- A1 mini
- A1
- P1P
- P1S
You can purchase a 0.4mm stainless steel hot-end directly from BL for these printers.
- A1 mini
- A1
You cannot purchase a replacement 0.4mm hot-end for the following printers despite being supplied with one pre-installed.
- P1P
- P1S
Only the X series come supplied with a 0.4 hardened steel hot-end installed.
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Good point. My tunnel vision was focused on the X1. 
The point is the printing temperature is for the filament. The printer is tasked with maintaining that temperature regardless of the hot end composition.
Iām late here, but why does it matter what material the nozzle is made of? I mean I know WHY the hardened exist but I canāt say Iāve seen a marked difference between the two materials. Maybe adjust the temps just a tad and run with it.
I run the revo mostly on the hardened profile and it works great.
Advice with TPU is dry it until you think its dry and dry it some more, and then dry it again. Maybe a little more.
If you look at the photo I originally posted, that is the difference I experienced.
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Yeah, I like to hear myself talk. Iām my biggest fan.
Sorry.
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Came here to say that P1S comes with stainless but someone beat me. Hardened Steel and Stainless steel do have quite different thermal conductivity of about 50 and 15 respectively with things like Brass 100 or more. So that is why I was wanting the ability to distinguish between nozzles or at least adjust max volumetric flow on a per nozzle material basis at least.
Seeing as they donāt sell a 0.4 stainless for the P Series (I didnāt realise this) I imagine that they have calibrated for the Hardened Steel which is fine because the machine prints fast enough like that. For someone like me though who is running a non standard hot end, my hardened steel non CHT and copper plated CHT nozzles result in quite different MVF for any one filament. I can keep it at the lowest, fine, but being able to adjust MVF per nozzle or printer material would be very useful - and it would also enable us to have a higher MVF for Stainless Steel over Hardened on their standard nozzles.
Iām not someone, Iām a self declared oracle.
A genius if you will. Iām not the only one, you could be one as well.
That, plus, it is my original post.
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My experience leads me to a different take on this entirely. To me, the photos show zero direct evidence of temperature issues. you are also using factor settings, which ought to and indeed do work just find for everyone else, including me.
What is clear is significant under extrusion in the case of the hardened nozzle. The lines are also very consistently too narrow. This suggests to me that the nozzle is in fact partially blocked. A partial block can be overcome by filaments where the simple extrusion force can push material past the blockage. TPU on the other hand cannot be push as hard and thus is less able to overcome the restriction.
With that in mind, it should follow that a longer print with no retractions would likely result in eventual bundling up of the TPU filament in the extruder gears. Has this occurred, by chance?
Do you have another hardened nozzle you can conveniently swap out to test my theory?
I should note that a significantly cooler nozzle temperature could also cause all I have stated. Itās possible that the thermistor (temperature sensor) in the hardened hotend is faulty, yade yada but really and with all else being equal and as youāve clearly indicated imo, this is highly unlikely.
Without prejudice, it seems a lot of folk here are still traumatized by years of printers that require endless manual tweaking to keep them working well. āTry raising the temperatureā simply makes no sense in the BambuLab āwalled gardenā (CEOās words) when using official printer parts and Bambu filaments ā though I suppose there is some merit in trying just to see for the sake of gathering extra evidence.
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I agree with this in my follow-up post as I showed no changes from those suggestions.
I did not witness anything like that.
The U.K. store finally got some more in and I have received it. I will be doing some more tests in a couple of days.
I must say I previously received some annoying responses here that put me off doing any more tests, having your abilities called out or suggestions that I was at fault are not conducive to a happy forum.
I rarely, if ever need, to make adjustments to the settings as they usually just work and only then if my job is very complicated. The idea I would need to print a strip of TPU is beyond nonsensical.
I will report back with the results.
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Any update? (25 charactersā¦)
After several hundreds of hours printing with TPU, I came to some conclusions. (P1S & X1C)
Long prints are very likely to suffer from clogging, especially with the 0.4 hardened steel. The stainless is a little better in this area.
The quality are about the same, I use a dryer to print out, I leave the spool at least 5 hours in advance in the dryer. The TPU needs to be completely dryā¦Other wise the quality is not acceptable.
I have ordered some 0.6mm hotends to test. Probably to only way to be sure that the clogging will not occur so often.
Iām using 0.6 for TPU, and have no complaints to date. Itās also true that I donāt need to print TPU every day or on large amount. But when I do have to use it, I simply replace the 0.4 with 0.6 , calibrate , run a small test print and Iām good to go. Havenāt tried my 0.8 nozzles on anything yet. Iāve purchased a set to make sure I have it at hand, should the need arise.
Yeah, yeah, yeahā¦ we knowā¦ we heard that beforeā¦ genius in disguiseā¦
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