Tried advice for gluing PETG HF cannot get it to work

I have seen people saying Oatey Clear primer (with MEK in it) will bond PETG HF. I saw other saying the PVC cleaner works. I have a coaster in the shape of a TRON disc (original fil [best one!]) that had inserts for the recessed words and and circular embellishments. They fall out after glued and set up to dry. WHile they initially stay in place, all it takes is moving them a bit or a jolt and they fall out. I am tired of dead ends and spending money on stuff that does not work. Why is it so hard to find legitimate info on this topic?

Would heating the parts before gluing help? I know super glue has been suggested as well but I never had any good experience with it either except for bonding skin!

I’ve bought the PLA Gloop many times, I don’t print in PETG enough to try the PETG version.

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MEK is a solvent, and it’s low viscosity. It can’t “gap fill” like an adhesive can. If the parts don’t fit close enough, the solvent won’t be able to “melt” the mated surfaces together and they won’t bond well.

I don’t know what this Oatey Clear stuff is, but I can assure you that PETG bonds just fine with MEK. This thing prints as 10 different parts, including the big half-gear thing that prints in two halves that are bonded together, all PETG, all bonded with MEK. It’s still stuck together now, about 2 years after I made it.

Thanks. The Oatey clear stuff has MEK in it. Evidently not enough or whatever they use to make it HF resists the MEK. It may sound funny, but

Thanks but this is why I specifically said PETG HF. You can see online fail tests for 3D gloop with PETG even though the company says it is for PETG.

For PETG-HF:

CA glue (superglue) works BUT you need to not use too much. (The inside of the big blobs wll never cure).

Baking soda also helps (sprinkle it on the surfaces, then apply CA glue). Plenty of stuff on the internet about that.

Traditional model making is an acquired skill. Persevere. :slight_smile:

3d Gloop is mega toxic, I am sure it’s only legal in my country because customs doesn’t bother to inspect it, or haven’t put it on the list yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HNFLMY

This is a higher viscosity cement. Unlike glues, it creates a weld by dissolving the two materials and the combined blended materials end up being stronger than the material around it.

Unfortunately, the new formula which comes in a lighter blue tube has the MEK removed in order to comply with the latest round of EU restrictions - I heard next year the EU is going to outlaw duct tape. :face_with_symbols_on_mouth: MEK was an important part of the welding properties and the new products is not as good.

I have a small portion of the previous darker blue and tested it side by side with the current lighter blue. The bond isn’t even close to what the original product was. But it’s still the best single part product I’ve test so far. Otherwise you have to go to a two part system, primer/adhesive.

So why am I telling you this? It’s because if you can find a retailer that still has the original formula in stock, grab it up: EBay perhaps?

Left is the original right is the new formula. Same UPC code.

Being HF has nothing to do with how the glue works…HF is High Flow, it’s for faster printing..it’s still PETG.

If you are desperate, there is always 2 part expoy (e.g. araldite) but it’s such a hassle

It will, however, bond almost any plastic. I have used it on PETG and HDPE, and that last one, wow that was hard to glue.

MEK is available in the UK, if that helps. JP MEKPOLY contains Butanone AKA methyl ethyl ketone.

Customs doesn’t check every package.

edit: I haven’t tried mekpoly on petg, but i did use it ages ago on warhammer plastic kits (which are HIPS plastic). it smells like donkey.

edit https://www.jperkins.com/products/5527931-1

from their MSDS: Ingredients with biological limit values: 78-93-3 methyl ethyl ketone

MEK is still available - for now - on Amazon but the problem is, you simply can’t just mix it with the SCIGRIP cement and expect it to work the same, I tried.

It’s also expensive AF because it has to be trucked. Where I live, it’s too expensive for local merchants to maintain environmental compliance so nobody in a 400 mile radius sells it.

This same bottle I saw for sale in Texas for less than $20, but they don’t let you bring it on the plane.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YP98SZ9

Super glue with an activator works great for me.

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/there-aint-no-glue-for-pla/77339/128?u=ulade

The product I linked was a polystrene cement already containing MEK

I can see it on ebay republic of ireland (that’s EU I think?) for 7.50 euros + 13 euro shipping to ireland from UK

Which is about what you considering buying raw MEK for

Anyway not sure where you are or what it will cost you, but it is available in EU

Cyanoacrylates do not form a strong bond in the same way solvent welding or structural adhesives do. With CA, the joint strength primarily depends on the adhesive layer itself - its cohesive strength and its adhesion to the surfaces. With solvent cement, the solvent softens the polymer surfaces so the two parts fuse together and form polymer chain entanglement across the interface. When done correctly with a compatible material, that can approach parent material strength.

As the OP was asking, finding a true solvent for PETG would be a strong solution if one were available and compatible. In that case, the solvent does not “create” the bond in the traditional adhesive sense - the base material does, through fusion.

Try this. Print two strips of material, PLA, PETG, etc., that are 60x15x10 mm. Glue them together in an offset manner like this:

Clamp them tightly and let the bond cure for 24 hours. Then place one side in a vise, clamp the other side with vise grips, and bend the joint. This is effectively a peel or cleavage-style test, not pure shear.

With standard superglue, you will typically see brittle fracture at the bond line. That is characteristic of CA - high stiffness, low elongation, and poor peel and impact resistance.

With a properly executed solvent weld using a solvent that genuinely softens the polymer, you will often see failure in the surrounding material rather than at the interface. That happens because the joint becomes closer to a solid piece of plastic as if it had been printed as one single piece. Which is why I prefer cement.

For certain materials like ABS, PC, and PVC with tight-fitting, well-prepared surfaces, CA can work reasonably well in light-load applications. But with most FDM 3D printed parts, the layer lines reduce true contact area and introduce stress risers. CA performs best with tight joint fit and clean surfaces; it does not require a glass-polished finish, but large gaps and rough surfaces significantly reduce performance.

So the distinction is not simply glue versus cement. Solvent cement is still an adhesive. The difference is the bonding mechanism: adhesive bonding versus polymer fusion. That mechanism difference is why, in structural thermoplastic joints, a proper solvent weld will generally outperform standard cyanoacrylate.

Thanks for the tip but I am in the US and couldn’t find that product available through any retailer or Amazon.

Well excuse me for thinking that someone lamenting the ability to purchase a particular cement in europe was in fact not in europe (which might also explain why they felt the product was not availble when it is)

I think you misinterpreted my comment. I wasn’t stating whether or not the product was effective or not or whether it was available or not.

The issue I was pointing it is of EU compliance, which can directly affect the U.S. market. Large global manufacturers typically avoid maintaining multiple regional formulations if they can meet all regulatory requirements with a single “global” version. If a product is modified to comply with EU regulations, that revised formulation is often what gets distributed worldwide.

In the case of Scigrip, I contacted a distributor who stated that regulatory considerations were the reason the formulation was changed. He specifically cited the EU.

The broader concern is how regulatory frameworks can have cross-border effects. For example, recent legislative proposals in Washington State, California, and New York have explored firmware-based compliance concepts for 3D printers. While the Washington bill did not advance, the underlying principle is similar: once a regulatory requirement is introduced in a major market, manufacturers may choose to standardize globally rather than produce market-specific variants. This should concern anyone with a 3D Printer because it’s a small leap from preventing the printing of a part that some AI states merely “looks” like it can be used for a firearm and one of the big Automakers invoking the DMCA to prevent their parts from being fabricated on a 3D printer, even if they no longer manufacture that part.

Whether the topic is EU chemical compliance or state-level firmware proposals, the pattern is the same. Regulatory changes in one jurisdiction can influence product design and availability elsewhere. The concern is less about geography and more about how centralized compliance models can narrow consumer choice across markets.

Jb weld Clearweld 2 part epoxy has glued everything I’ve ever printed.

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