I recently purchased a Bambu Cool Plate for my H2D and H2C because I’m trying to print a 100 mm × 100 mm flat part with a matte surface. The matte finish itself looks great (I was able to get 1 part off the plate), but I’m running into a major issue: the parts bonds so aggressively to the Cool Plate that it tears when I try to remove it. I have to flex the plate, lift a tiny corner, and pry it off, and in the process part of the matte coating sticks to the build plate. The finished surface ends up damaged and unusable.
I tried using an Elmer’s Purple glue stick as a release layer. It did help with removal, but it left the bottom surface shiny instead of matte, and the glue is extremely difficult to clean off the plate. 91% isopropyl alcohol barely touched it. I could try dish soap, but I’d really prefer not to have to deep‑clean the plate after every print.
So I have two questions:
Is there anything I can do to reliably achieve a matte finish on a large, flat print? Are there specific settings or a better release layer that won’t ruin the texture?
The H2C doesn’t have many plate options yet—so for the H2D, what build plate, in your experience, produces the best and most consistent matte finish?
I’ve been printing with PETG from eSun and Creality, and I just loaded a roll of Bambu Lab’s black HF-PETG. I’m about to test it on a freshly opened SuperTack Cool Plate on my H2C to see if it improves the ability to remove the object.
yeah i’ve had the same with large flat pieces on the super tack, it really stays stuck in there
in the H2D i prefer to use the biqu glacier, it’s very close to a smooth surface finish, and does not grip as hard, i’ll probably get one for the h2c as well when they have it for a while and run a promo
I got the issue mostly resolved by lowering the bed temp. I set the temp the same for the initial layer as for additional layers.
Default for the SuperTack is 60c for PETG I believe, I first tried 50c and got a little lifting on the corners. I then up’d it to 52c and that seemed to work really well for me.
The surface looks really good, and I was able to remove the part. The next problem I am seeing is the matte finish leaves the ability to easily scratch the surface, for example, just rubbing my fingernail leaves lines.
I might end up with the glossier finish of the BIQU Frostbite plate since that finish is less proned to obvious scratches.
I’m loving the new Supertack plates, I only print PLA and yes it’s sticky, but it’s doing its job and my build plate temps are only 40c so it’s another good step in keeping my tool head fan from dying.
I had issues when I first started using the plate on my P1S, but now that I know how to work it, I use it as my main plate.
When I first used it, the parts stuck on like super glue. I found out that really flexing the plate when it is still hot will release parts without any issues. You may still have to pry off the part a little, but the surface does not become damaged. Once it cools off, it is extremely hard to get the parts off without damaging the surface of the part. So if you ran a print and came back much later when the plate was cool, just set the bed temp to 70 and then take off the part(s). You can use gloves if you wish, but I don’t find the temperature too hot to handle.
Eventually, I was having issues with filament sticking to this plate probably due to the fact that you really have to flex and use your fingers on the top part a lot. I washed the plate thoroughly with just dish soap and water, with no headway. I tried multiple washes and even tried alcohol, which is not recommended, and still had issues with the first layer. I gave up for a while and started using the smooth high temp plate with glue for PETG. Then I remembered that someone had posted a “clean plate” print. I had an old unused roll of PLA and decided to print the one layer to clean the plate. Once I did this and peeled it off while it was still warm, all of the prints afterwards began to stick on the first layer again! So it seems that soap and water does not do a good job cleaning this plate but a thin layer of PLA works. Also, this PLA clean plate method will last quite a while if you don’t touch the top surface too much.
Yes, this plate is quite delicate and if you use any type of scraper, metal or plastic, it will gouge the surface, which I did in my early stages of learning how to use the plate. If you take off the parts while warm, you should be able to pop them off easily without damaging the plate or the print.
I don’t recommend using this plate if printing very thin parts. The PLA “plate clean” is extremely thin and it breaks off into strips when taking it off.
I thought I would share some of my experience with this plate. Hope this helps a little.
