I enjoy printing miniatures as well, so I’m happy to share my own experience. Just to be clear: this is only my personal perspective - everyone will have their own approach, and there are plenty of ways to reach the result you want.
Generally speaking, I wouldn’t use a textured build plate. It’s a bit of a jack‑of‑all‑trades — it can do many things, but none of them particularly well. With miniatures, I’ve had far more failures and odd issues on textured plates than on smooth ones.
I also wouldn’t print a figure at a 45° angle. Either keep it upright at 0°, or lay it flat on its back at 180°. Printing at 0° tends to give you the most reliable, trouble‑free results, while the 180° back‑side orientation keeps any visible marks on the rear of the model, where they’re easier to hide.
Your support is partially floating in the air and is not connected to the object: Not just in one place, but in many - that’s probably the cause of the print failure.
Please also keep in mind that tips you find on YouTube are often either a bit too general or, on the other hand, far too specific. What works perfectly for one printer or one particular model might not translate well to another setup.
I also like recommending this Reddit community - the information there tends to be much more reliable, especially if you sort the posts by Top Posts of All Time, which brings the most helpful and well‑tested advice to the top.
This isn’t exactly what you asked, but I’ll throw it in just in case you’re interested: There are also miniatures that you can print completely without supports: “support-free miniatures”
By the way, if it isn’t one of those “support-free miniatures”, I’d personally print it with the base and the figure separated. It saves a lot of time and avoids a whole bunch of headaches. You could even add a few simple joints - this was just a quick mock‑up. Glue the parts together afterward and it’ll hold perfectly. Honestly, I’d be more concerned about the sword snapping off than anything else.
By the way, the reason was that the file hadn’t been optimized for 3D printing and was probably a game rip or a large model that had been scaled down. Take a look: After optimization, the file is only 2.5 MB.
This can also be a factor that confuses the slicer if there is a lot of unnecessary information in the 3D model.
Wow and thank you for your contribution and insight!. This is awesome and “A lot to unpack” for a newbie.. but I am thankful for your insight. Maybe a good quesiton for me to start with is Why are the supports partially floating in the air and is not connected to the object:
Did I mangle a setting somewhere?
Going back and rereading all you shared for processing purposes
To be completely honest: I have no idea. I can’t really say, because so much has changed. That’s way too much to be able to judge.
I rarely make it that complicated for myself: I just use Bambu’s “High Quality” profile and tweak the support settings a little. Too many settings can often lead to errors and print fails.
