When I got my WhamBam Carbon Fiber Plate, I had to start from scratch, as no one had a working setup at the time. WhamBam’s own recommended values were quite off for achieving a good, clean first layer.
This is the value that prints a perfect layer for me every time:
This is what WhamBam suggests:
Getting the nozzle and bed temperature right is a bit tricky. I kept testing until the model stuck to the bed as it should, and then gradually increased the nozzle temperature until the first layer came out perfectly.
New 3D printer users are often too hesitant to experiment and find what really works for their setup. For example, I need to let my X1 Carbon heat soak for 10 minutes to ensure even bed temperature. I also can’t print ASA at standard speed, even with every fan turned off.
By the way, that first layer was on a Textured PEI, right?
I can try the same print on my Smooth PEI if you’d like a comparison. Just send me the same 3MF file and I’ll get it done as soon as I can. I will have to use glue, since PC will bond too aggressively to Smooth PEI to be safe without it.
I mainly use Magigoo Original. If needed, I’ll switch to a variant like Magigoo PC/PA/Flex, but in most cases Magigoo Original is enough to protect both the PEI surface and the print.
I once tried printing TPU directly on my Carbon Fiber Plate, and it stuck so hard I thought I’d have to throw the plate away and get a new one 
Thankfully, due to the tough nature of the Carbon Fiber Plate, it survived the struggle