I read a similar thread over the weekend that mentioned the use of graphite as a lubricant , (dry ? / oil ? ), oil causing clogging from filament dust rising with the heat or a case of simply over cleaning removing the lubricant completley causing friction in the places where the toolhead is sticking
This thread has been a godsend . Iâve been chasing down slicer settings and machine calibrations for the last 2wks in an attempt to get my P1S to print ABS properly. FWIW, my X1C which I bought in March has been perfect, and my P1S which I received 2wks ago has never given me a successful print. At least until I read this thread.
Using mostly the same slicer profile I use on my X1C, for my P1S, I removed the preheat chamber g-code and turned on my ventilation (chamber) fan to run constantly at 70% in hopes of keeping the chamber temps down. Lo and behold, I actually printed a successful part. For those asking, in BambuStudio, to activate the ventilation fan in the filament settings, you first have to select the option in the respective printer settings.
Granted only a print thus far, it would appear the running theory of high chamber temperatures affecting printer performance has validity. Purposefully keeping the chamber temps down on warp prone materials is obviously a poor solution, but for the geometries Iâm printing, the results are fine. Iâll continue to print models and see what happens knock on wood.
In the meantime, while I could jury-rig my machine like binfordw has laid out, I will be contacting Bambu for a replacement printer/tool head assembly as there is no anyone should be having these issues on brand new printers.
TL;DR â Solution to large layer shifts is to keep chamber temps low
Yes, it is strange, most discussions here, as well as my own experience has pointed to a hotter chamber being the answer to successful ABS/ASA prints, not lower.
No,The P1S doesnât have a chamber temperature sensor , which i think would mean its chamber fan can only keep the current temp constant, rather than regulate a constant temperature.
So finally got closure to this issue, after some back and forward with the support they sent me the G-code to test sticky rods, heated the chamber up to 46C on the display with fans off as before and then ran the G-code and exported the logfile for review. Indeed they confirmed the issue and offered to send a new rod assembly. I did not accept that solution and requested a replacement. I entered the ticket within 30 days of receiving the printer so got two options, send it back and then get a new one or pay a deposit and get a new one before I had to return the one I had. I opted for the later and got my new printer today. Currently running the same test on the new one to make sure it doesnât suffer from the same issue. Fingers crossed.
Even if you donât plan to print high temp materials this might be a good test to do before warranty runs out, but It could also be that the rods will eventually wear in due to the locally higher friction. There is probably a dark number of printers with customers that will not notice the fault due to never printing high temp. Hope BambuLab steps up their quality control for this issue, they obviously are aware of the issue since they have the G-code to test for it.
I had my issue re-occur, so I disassembled the head unit again and did a more thorough inspection.
I found tight spots on the rods. Minimal, but Iâm sure it increases with heat (as weâve documented here). I cleaned and Spun/worked the bushings over the rods for a âgood whileâ before eventually re-assembling and testing. I noticed the bushing would spin freely for a long time on âgoodâ sections of the rods, but would churn to a halt quickly when they drifted to the tighter spots. I do feel like I made this better, but it wasnât 100% as perfect as it could have been.
Iâd like to have used a fine polishing paper or similar, but didnât have anything suitable. Ive printed a fair amount of ASA test prints at high chamber temps without issue so far. I think if I see the issue return at some point, iâll just order the $90 rod assembly.
New printer completed the print that failed on the old one without a hitch. PAHT-CF 2.5h and the chamber temp was 51c on the display and measured 60c in the top part at the end of the print. Head moved smoothly by hand after.
So should be safe to use the part I printed for active heating the complete chamber to 60c in the future.
Opened a case for this issue with support, it has been open for almost a month. Except for some default solutions hoping that something sticks I clearly have worldâs worst support representative.
Communication is painfully slow, waiting for response takes days if not a week at a time. By now I think the guy is either dead or on holiday.
. Iâve been chasing down slicer settings and machine calibrations for the last 2wks in an attempt to get my P1S to print ABS properly. FWIW, my X1C which I bought in March has been perfect, and my P1S which I received 2wks ago has never given me a successful print. At least until I read this thread.
