Vortek upgrade video

Bambu Lab H2 Series
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I’ve seen the clips on Bambu’s wiki about some of the upgrade steps, but haven’t seen any comprehensive educational/instructional videos on the upgrade process other than the one linked below. Has anybody come across any detailed videos yet on the installation process/steps? It’s pretty early in the kit release, but I understand that some people got the upgrade kits back in December and I thought we’d see some videos about it by now.

EDIT: He has since released a condensed version of the video:

His original, long-form video:

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I was thinking about a “tips” thread when I was watching the video.

  1. I removed my door just because you don’t want to shatter it..
  2. Highly, highly recommend a magnetizer for your driver’s and screwdrivers.
  3. Also highly recommend a good set of handled drivers, a pair of forceps for snaking and grabbing connectors.
  4. There’s quite a few left over screws, so don’t be alarmed.
  5. My first rack calibration failed, but there was a thread about heating the chamber to 40C and then running the calibration. This worked for me, and all has been good.
  6. Registration of the AP board: I left my registration status tab open. During one of my breaks (after a few hours) I clicked the tab, and it was already registered. I didn’t get the email till the next day mid afternoon(must be the same engine for upgrade kit availability). So I’d highly recommend “if possible" leaving the tab open and checking here or there for updated status..

That’s all I can think of at the moment..

Me personally, I’m really considering upgrading my other machine also. For me it was a long, but enjoyable “build" process..

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Thanks for the tips. #4 would have definitely freaked me out.

To clarify, that video is not mine. I hope I didn’t somehow imply that.

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It was my misread on the video.. I will edit the response.. And oh, I knew what I forgot: the registration window/tab!

And with the screws, it sort of freaked me out too. I have played the “Jedi Mind Trick” on myself to just place them in a bag, and I’m one of the boxes.. There’s also a couple cables that aren’t used..

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Tips i would add so far.

  1. Watch the clips on the status bar. You need to pull it from behind first.
  2. The mc board connectors clip in, dont try to just pull them out.
  3. The right connector on the air pump is glued in. It doesn’t need to be unplugged.
  4. Check the spring screws on the bed to ensure they are level with the surface.
  5. Before starting disassembly make sure you have the correct ac board. Other wise the printer will probably be down for a week while you wait for support to mail you a new one.
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Here is a photo of an ac board missing a connector for reference. It does not have the top left plug.

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Thanks – very useful to get the great tips you guys are sharing that come from the experience of installing it instead of the official instructions that although seem good, don’t cover much of what the real experience is and pitfalls/problems.

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Looks like that ‘tuber shared a condensed version of the video:

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Did the toolhead swap tonight.

Tips:

  1. Track all screws. Bambu gives you replacements which is premium, but the differences between them is so slight I had to check what got pulled from where to make sure I put the right ones back in.
  2. Tool head is packaged with a big m2 L wrench. Use it. Makes it easier to get into tight spaces. Especially gantry rear and the belt screws. It is also magnetized!
  3. The m2 screw driver is garbage, throw it out. Metal is so cheap it shredded itself in the screws.
  4. I believe the gantry rear screws drive into plastic. It was much sturdier then I expected, you can snuggle it nicely.
  5. Plan to shower afterwards. I over oil my machine but it reminded me of working with a car with all the oil and grease on me.
  6. Plan to oil and grease the machine before start up. No way a user doesn’t rub their skin on everything doing this.

Over all not as bad as the heat bed swap. But it did take 2 hours and the guide said 50 minutes.

Bambu pls gib replacement ac board so I can finish the heat bed swap.

Edit: Thinking on it, dont buy a h2s/h2d assuming you can upgrade it. I now have a pile of very expensive/cutting edge e waste i am sitting on. It is also a very time consuming upgrade. The kit feels more like an apology to early adopters of the h2d.

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Lol, an apology that we have to pay for…

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I’ll be creating a full step-by-step video guide as soon as my Vortek kit arrives. For reference, Ive created build guides for Prusa’s machines, so they’ll be close up, clear, concise, and professional quality!

See my profile for a link to my channel, and stay tuned!

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It is expensive, but I don’t think this kit would exist if the h2c released first.

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i followed your guide when doing my core one kit build! nicely done :wink:

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Thanks!

I’ll be doing a similar guide for the H2D>H2C Vortek upgrade :wink:

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Would of been nice to see it printing, so im going to assume that ribbon spoiled the end of the intended video, with it printing .

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cool, i decided against going the upgrade kit route, i have a bunch of parts for the h2d that wouldn’t then be compatible, it felt a bit of a waste, and i was able to get the h2c so i just got the assembled one :slight_smile: but if i change my mind in the future and decide to upgrade one of the H2Ds i’ll definitely go watch your guide

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True! Very true.. But I don’t think a lot of us(initial buyers) would have H2D’s at all, had the H2C been available.. I know I wouldn’t..

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This is a video of mine checking the nozzles

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I’m still impressed they were able to make a mass consumer device with this kind of mechanical movement every time I see it.

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The initial video tells me two things , the first being look how simple the process is ,the second being dont try this at home , so cudos to both you and Boo`s clues and his wife for taking the project on