Excuse the sensationalism. With perhaps 1400H of purely 2+ color printing, the left nozzle heater wires became damaged from the thousands of cycles, each time dragging the cable across that lip, and would no longer heat the left nozzle.
Seems like the heating cable could use some extra chafing protection and is an actual flaw in the current configuration and may eventually happen to many of you. The left heating assembly on the bambu store consistently being out of stock seems to resonate with this opinion
Looks to be an easy repair if you own or know someone who owns a soldering iron and a bit of heat-shrink tubing. Once repaired, a sleeve of heat-shrink, or even a wrap or two of electrical tape should significantly extend the time before you’d need to deal with it again. I’d probably remove the part it chafes on and if there’s a sharp edge, break it down with a hand file so it’s rounded and smooth.
Pretty sure you have covered that for everyone already. I think you are in just about every thread that is critical of Bambu. Honestly, I have no clue why you are even here as it seems you strongly dislike this printer/how the company is handling this. I would have noped out of here if I felt the same way as you and moved on with my life.
These machines are complex, and it’s not that easy to design something complex that works exactly as intended right off the drawing board. Which is why I never buy something as soon as it hits the market. I always wait 6 months or so for the design and manufacturing process to be “matured”. Correcting things the manufacturer can’t see until they ramp to volume production.
I never, ever buy the first model year of a new car design for the same reasons.
For certain, Bambu doesn’t want to pay for warranty replacements, so they are unquestionably looking at these kinds of issues and where they determine the costs make it worth the effort, making adjustments to their design so that the failure modes are eliminated. We’ve seen evidence of this with the printers that pre-date the H2D. Newer revisions of component designs.
But there will be issues that happen at very low rates they might decide cost too much to correct. That doesn’t make them any more or less “customer focused” than any other company.
BL has positioned themselves to be a brand anyone can pick up and use, the h2d being the AIO manufacturing device. some housewife mom should expect to know what to do after only a few weeks of PLA printing?
House mom doing 12 hours of printing in a few weeks? What kind of fools do you think we are? I printed an awful lot of stuff on my X1CC, sold a bunch also and in just under 3 years I’ve just crossed 4K hours. So House mom would most likely print 1200 hours in a decade. Have you EVEN looked at your H2D up close. It’s WAY the heck more complicated than the X1C. And sure there will be breakdowns. Everything that moves breaks, even you. The issue is what will be replace in the first year for free, vs you having to purchase. And at what cost. So far, Bambu parts are pretty dang cheap. Solder it and get on with life. The sensational title is just that.
I’ve seen some posts on this issue of the left heating assembly being out of stock. Amazon stocks it for $80. On the Bambu store it is $30 when in stock so I guess this is an item that is good to have on hand.
Man this thread went south really fast. Lets get back on track to the issue being the left heater assembly. I know it has been a problem for some people and the store has been having difficulty keeping stock of the left side heating assembly. Those wires are very thin. I’d like to hear more about what can be done to prevent issues.
what can be done to prevent chafing on the wires…
I’d probably start with some teflon tape wraps or even simple electrical tape in the area that is getting frayed (on the replacement, not as a repair).
I would even consider using some heat shrink over the wires that are fraying (but not shrinking it down) to act as an abrasion barrier.
What’s causing the chaffing? Is it the hot-end moving up and down (something the right-hand hot-end can’t do), or the vigorous back-and-forth nozzle cleaning, or unintended abrasion against the print while executing travel moves, or…?
I’d expect it is the left nozzle raise and lowering action. There should be no relative motion of the hot end to the extruder body during wipes or printing.
This is why I use the right nozzle for everything possible. I was a little butthurt when the machine forced me to feed pet-cf into the left nozzle. I literally only use the left nozzle when I have to.
Unfortunately, this forum is full of fanboys blinded by their love for the company. According to them, if someone spends thousands of euros/dollars and gets a product that breaks right away, that’s totally fine and not worth discussing — just because everything works fine for them.
I’d love to see how these “friendly” folks would react after spending that kind of money and ending up with an expensive paperweight.
Let’s be clear: this forum is meant for discussion, for sharing both positive and negative experiences. We are consumers, not shareholders. Keep your feet on the ground — Bambu Lab doesn’t care about you.
well i use the left nozzle all the time on both my machines guess i’ll find out if it breaks eventually but so far so good, and i won’t really change the way i’m using the printers
printer 1 has an AMS pro on each, so depending on where the filament i want to use is, that is the nozzle that gets used (and for the dual colour of course)
printer 2 has an AMS HT on the left nozzle, so everytime i’m printing with more “engineering” materials it gets used, the right one has an AMS with the regular stuff
Not saying that it won’t break, as i can’t know that for sure, but i’ll continue to use as is, and if/when it breaks i’ll reach out to support for replacement parts, maybe they will indeed reinforce something on the replacement to prevent damage, don’t really know
I looked at mine after reading this topic and the fine wires are tucked up and out of the way of anything. My only thought is they got snagged on the OP when the head was in the raised position and had slack where something can get behind and pull on it.
There is a cause behind everything, if this was a real issue we would hear a lot more about it by now. I have 500 hours on mine and other than the machine telling me to clean and lube the jackscrews and rods, it has been running flawlessly. Now did I get a good machine and will the one arriving on Monday be a POS? Time will tell.
Like with cars, these are built by humans on an assembly line, they will never be perfect as long as human hands touch them. One person can by a $110K truck and have it be flawless for 20 years while someone buys the same model and price that is made a week later and have nothing but problems right off the lot. Thats reality.
Oh and not being a fanboy here, just stating facts.
I’ve tried with a couple of different cameras, and I apologize that I can’t seem to capture a photo of the wires in focus. The photo below was the best I could do. Anyway, I don’t want to make a big deal about it, but it always struck me even from the beginning that the wires in question were hanging very low–I mean seemingly barely above the nozzle tip, especially when printing.
Kinda “flapping in the breeze” as Dave Jones would say.
Is this Bambu’s attempt to give as large a bend radius as possible in relation to the issue the OP raised?
Is it the same with everyone else’s H2D, or is my H2D just unusually “low hung”? Jokes aside, I mean it as a serious question.
My H2D’s is so low I was afraid it would potentially get snagged on a print, but I guess it’s just barely high enouugh that such snagging hasn’t yet occurred.
I know that in the CNC world there are special cables that are much more resistant to fatigue and chaffing failure for use in drag chains and such, but they do come at a premium price.
guess i’ll find out if it breaks eventually but so far so good, and i won’t really change the way i’m using the printers