And what’s the solution?
You can see the horizontal lines where the wall should be smooth.
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You didn’t provide much to go on so start with Troubleshooting and Solutions for 3D Printing Layer Lines | Bambu Lab Wiki
Filament type & manufacturer
Basic settings
Nozzle
…
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Thanks for the link! I’ll check for nozzle wobble when the print finishes.
provide 3mf for diagnostics
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diagnostics_file.3mf (2.0 MB)
File looks good to me, should be some sort of hardware issue, most likely wobble nozzle. or just wipe your z lead screws a couple times then re lube them
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Try greasing and oiling all the metal parts, then rerun all calibrations. It helped when my prints looked much like yours.
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There’s a good chance this may be it, because the onset was about the same time that I did exactly that maintenance. I was very thorough at removing the old oil and grease, but maybe I didn’t get enough of the new oil and grease in every nook and cranny that it needs to get.
And I didn’t know I was supposed to re-run the calibrations afterward, so I didn’t. Thanks for mentioning that. Maybe that alone will fix it. 
print it again with a new filament, and compare the parts. Are the lines on the exact same positions?
In my experience, the prints often look awful on the built-in camera, yet they look nearly flawless in person. The chamber lighting tends to exaggerate every minor imperfection.
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You might also want to try and print it via the 2nd nozzle and see if that improves things…
I think these machines are mainly more finicky with needing re calibration. It’s been my first troubleshooting step with any issue on the h2d.
I wonder if it is because of the use of servos rather then stepper motors being more sensitive to any change.
It turns out the printer has big time “nozzle wobble”. When I last changed the hotend-nozzle, the clasp unexpectedly flew off. I pressed it back on, but evidently it’s now shot, as I just confirmed that I can easily wobble the nozzle even when it’s closed… So, I guess I’ll have to order a new hotend heating assembly:
I’ll doublecheck the screws are tight, but if so, then that’s likely the only path back to a no wobble nozzle.
The right hand nozzle parts tend to stick due to bits of boiled off filament accumulating on it over time, even with a silicon sock covering over it. That makes even unclasping it a bit difficult. Maybe we’ll need to develop a specialized tool for doing that.
I’ve printed this model before, and I can confirm that prior to the “unclasping malfunction,” for lack of a better term, it printed the walls extremely flat without all these lines.
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It turns out there’s a correct way and a wrong way to close the clasp, and on the right nozzle I inadvertently did the wrong way. I re-clasped it the correct way, and now it’s solid. No wobble. No big deal. I’ll pay closer attention in the future.
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I’ve done the same thing. I thought the clasp was broken because I could wiggle the nozzle with it locked. My new method is to always make sure that metal ledge on the back of the nozzle is sitting flat where it should be and then close the clasp.
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Yeah, I think we’re just proving Murphy’s Law here. If there’s a wrong way to do something, some of us will eventually find it and stumble into it. Of course, in retrospect, it all seems so obvious, but not in the moment that the error occurs, which might be 4am with little to no sleep. It’s all very humbling.
I’m glad I finally found the root problem. It explains why I had a devil of a time calibrating that filament to get a “perfect first layer”. I’m sure it will go much smoother now.
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I had once the same issue with one of my nozzles. I could feel it wobble after I noticed that my print wasn’t looking right.
I just re-seated the nozzle and it was all fine. No need to replace any components here.
My best practice now is that I check the wobble every time I replace a nozzle.
I do it before I close the clasp by checking if it seats ok, and after closing it I try to move the tip before I place the sock. It possibly adds 10 seconds to the replacement process but can save a lot of hassle.
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I made the same mistake even if I were perfectly aware of this problem hahaha. Guess the only thing to go is that always give it a test after installation
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Reporting back:
What a great community we have! Just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and comments. Here’s a photo of a new print, freshly completed and still on the build plate, without the nozzle wobble. All those obnoxious lines are gone:
Final proof by inspection that it worked. QED.
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Looks great!
How do you like the non-oem build plates?