I’m using Anycubic PLA. It’s dried and calibrated. The best calibration swatch was 0.
This is the top layer. The other side was on a smooth Supertack plate and it also has scars. I’m printing at 220C. The black areas on the other side are smooth and don’t have scars so I’m thinking filament issue rather than mechanical. But I don’t know what to check next.
Usually that is overextrusion, and the lines kind of push themselves out of the way as they monotonic fill the top.
Why it happens is varied 
Could just be too much default flow, which would be great as thats easy to fix with a Flow Rate calibration + saving the value to your slicer. You said your 0 swatch looked great but maybe it would be interesting to go -1%. Or possibly change JUST the specific top surface flow ratio to less than 1.00. Cool plates dont tend to curl, but do check to make sure your bottom surface isnt curling up at all - curls/warps will interfere with the open space the printer wants to be in and can do the same.
If that model is one or two layers thick, I would consider the build plate has a need to be cleaned.
If correct, this is a routine but if maintenance most people are unaware of or even consider.
Contaminates like previous prints and finger marks when handling the plate or removing the models is the cause.
There are other reasons, one already given that should be considered.
I ran the second phase of the flow calibration and it came up with 94%. So your pointing to over-extrusion sounds right. I’m printing again now.
I wish I could print all Bambu filament but when other brands go on sale for $8 I can’t pass it up.
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If you use an AMS, AND if the filament prints properly using Bambu filament settings, save the RFID tags from empty Bambu spools and tape them to the sides of the 3rd party spools. That will let you use the 3rd party filament without having to muck with settings all the time. Plus the AMS won’t try to measure the filament on the spool each time it wakes up. Match colors too and much easier to use them in Studio..
But only works without adjusting things if they use the same settings. I mark my RFID tags with filament type and color and it makes it much nicer to work with 3rd party filaments.
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I too am lured in by the siren song of Elegoo, Jayo, Kingroon, etc 
I was wondering if I could do this… I will definitely save some of my RFID tags and try it.
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