This is initial layer. It does not happen to fill in whole the design in overall, but the perimeters (at one side) appear to be detached everywhere, it’s like nozzle lost its alignment. I noticed when printing circles around screw holes the nozzle does NOT perform full circle, the circle looks like incomplete which is very strange.
Where to look into? ABS. Layer height=0.2, initial=0.24. Width=0.24. Speed=20mm/s. Plate was cleaned with spirit beforehand. Filament was dried,
Hm, hard to say. I tend to wet filament but you’ve said filament is dry. Too much resistance for filament feed may lead to similar results too.
It’s tricky to get a good sense of scale, it could be a slicing issue if model details are below nozzle diameter and Arachne wasn’t used as wall generator. Otherwise, bed height calibration could be wrong. A partly clocked nozzle or wrong print temperature could cause effects like this.
Textured PEI doesn’t like organic solvents and they aren’t recommended for cleaning.
Plain dish soap and warm water is all you need and all you should use with drying by basic/fragrance-free paper towel or lintless cloth with no fabric softeners.
After cleaning, don’t touch the printable areas with your bare hands to keep finger oils away.
No idea if there is permanent damage to the PEI but only plain dish soap and water.
Also, PEI doesn’t stick well forever and PEI plates are listed as consumables. I still am using my original tex PEI plates but have to use glue to get things to stick. Or I could buy new plates. Just how it goes.
The ABS is a wildcard for me. I don’t know how it behaves in general on PEI plates. There are some plate/plastic incompatibilities I believe. It should list any on the filament pages if ABS plastic matters in this.
Just checked. The product page for textured PEI says it is compatible with ABS but you may need glue. I have no experience with ABS to know how it looks/prints without glue but might be something to try. Sometimes glue is just used as a release agent too so might not matter in how it lays down but instead may matter when trying to separatevthem.
H2D or H2C, how many hours?
H2D, have got printer approx. a month ago. Did not print much, and did not notice such severe issues.
Let me try dishwashing the plate first.
OK, I’ve thought may be the extruder gear is slipping against the wheel but not at this low time. You may already have the improved extruder gear like H2C with such a low time H2D anyway so that’s not it. Can it be a piece of filament in the extruder restricting the flow? Yes clean the plate and re-test
Clues ? and 25 chars still
Double check the slicer preview. I wonder if what is filling in those holes is just support for the bottom of the hole (which is above the plate)?
If that’s what those are - the beginnings of support for the bottom of those holes, depending on what the hole needs to look like, if you chamfer that bottom of the hole to the sides of the hole, you can eliminate support in them entirely without sacrificing anything.
But I wonder if that’s what you are seeing maybe?
Re: hole rounds - they are incomplete because they are support. Thanks, you are right.
I am totally frustrated. I have three identical pieces on the plate, and all three are printing differently. They are located far back, middle and front. Far back is having issues in the pictures in this post. Middle one if being printed PERFECTLY. The front one prints even shittier, with perimeter closer to the plate edge not sticking at all. Sounds like plate temperature issue?
I have set default line width as 0.24. However infill is 0.4 and walls are 0.4. But, for the initial layer, Studio only provides single override “initial layer”, if I set it to 0.24 then EVERYTHING is being printed 0.24, including perimeters/walls which do not stick properly. If I set it to 0.3 or 0.4 then I lose details on the art of the initial layer.
Is there a way to make studio to at least have thick walls? I asked AI it started to hallucinate on “initial layer infill width” which I can not find. If I will make walls 0.4 at the initial layer they (hopefully) will stick properly.
It also proposed to create modifier for first layer - sounds ugly workaround though.
Update: WTF setting “initial layer” width to 0 seems to be the solution. But I think I tried it in the past and have got negative wall size for arachne wall generator.
This isn’t that uncommon. Some see it on a single piece where the print quality changes across the piece and it is repeatable for them too.
What to do about it is more out of my experience but what I’ve seen mentioned is fans running that maybe shouldn’t (or maybe not running that maybe should), air currents with the chamber door open and maybe a fan nearby, or some other aspect that causes a different print environment - even fairly subtle differences across the print or build plate.
Hopefully others that know this aspect better can chime in. I think @JonRaymond and others may be familiar and hopefully not putting Jon in a hot seat.
But there may be another contribution at play here but like I said before I’m not familiar with ABS. In checking Bambu’s ABS filament page they caution specifically to use enclosed printers though I couldn’t tell you why. They mention drying but don’t emphasize it like they do with PETG.
At least with other filament types, I’ve done a fair bit of experimenting with drying and moisture issues and those seem to fade in as moisture levels rise. It could be, but I’m not saying it is, that you have just enough water in your filament that it’s starting to misbehave. You can tune out some moisture effects so it stands to reason you might be near a transition and the microclimates across your build plate are doing some tuning for you.
I know it’s hand-wavy and it could be wrong. I know you said you dried your filament too but there were no details. Thing is many standard filament dryers are less than ideal for really drying filament well. I’d be curious what your drying procedure is and if you do any checks to know your drying was effective?
I use a standard single-bay dryer that is really well built IMO but non-ideal at drying filament. Unfortunately this is not uncommon. The water doesn’t have a good way to leave so essentially stock you’re giving filament a sauna which is not a good way to dry it. On MakerWorld people have created door props for a number of dryers to fix that sauna issue and they really help. During the first half of my drys, I prop the lid to my dryer open about 3/4 inches. That lets the heat drive off water while letting the water out. It gets significantly more water out than drying with the lid closed.
But I don’t know this is the issue and unfortunately can’t advise at all on ABS. With PLA and PETG, if you put a spool of filament in a gallon ziplock bag with a hygrometer (no desiccant), after about a half hour the hygrometer will settle to a value. I don’t print PLA above 25% RH at room temperature and PETG above 20% because water effects for my setup start appearing. Typically my filament is much dryer than that - below 10% and I don’t see any water issues at all.
So for whatever all this is worth. Maybe someone else has other solutions?
“Update: WTF setting “initial layer” width to 0 seems to be the solution. But I think I tried it in the past and have got negative wall size for arachne wall generator.”
Wow. Not sure why that would fix it but good going! Seems an error to me but I don’t use arachne that much to really say. Congrats!
I use two - Polydryer single slot continuous drying on either power level 2 or 3, and AMS2 pro. While I have seen positive effects with Polydryer on another printer and may say it does the job well, I did not have much experience with AMS2 drying yet, and the negative thing is it does NOT dry when printing. IMHO it is just stupid - it must also support continuous drying.
This normally points to an incorrect K value for the filament.
I doubt I’ll ever go for the AMS2 dryer. It seems more logical to me to dry in a dryer and print from an AMS. Also, I can dry PETG while printing PLA without causing problems. But I see where others may find it useful especially if they stick predominantly to one filament type.
Thanks, Jon! Not really my area.
@Bambu_support please document it in the studio in the tool tip display at least.
Page says
Before you begin the calibration, ensure the 3D printer is connected. Follow the steps below to use the Automatic mode.
To be true for manual mode too.
Printer is NOT connected and can’t be connected this time. USB stick only. Printer has passed all the startup/install calibration tasks. You may beat me but I can’t understand why it was not possible to put cheap wired Ethernet adapter inside. Or have control over USB.
Connected to Bambu Studio. The calibration tab in Studio will walk you through the process. This does not need Internet/cloud access.
Printer connected to the Studio? Through what medium? With Wi-Fi access they have least chance to get into the corporate world because it will just be forbidden by the IT security.
Maybe I am missing something here, because I’m not a native English speaker.
You said, you have a layer width of 0.24, and a layer height of 0.24 first / 0.2 others , and all that with a 0.4 nozzle, I assume?
Ymmv, but I won’t print with a width of less than 75% of the nozzle width. And even then, the layer height should not exceed half the line width, as a rule of thumb. Printing with line width and layer height in the same ballpark means, you try to lay down a line with a square cross section - that won’t work.
As I stated earlier - maybe I’m lost in translation, then don’t mind…
