Is this where you’re ordering it from?
Would you be willing to do a full share on your print profile? I mean either the full exported profile or else screenshots of all your print settings?
AFAIK, my machine is in good working order. If we set up the same, and we use the same filament, then the results should be the same. Since we’re both using a 0.6mm nozzle, there shouldn’t be any difference.
If you’re willing, I’d be more than happy to give it a try.
Yes, from their website, Gray color.
I can share my profile, not a problem. It’s quite simple actually. It’s a stock PETG Basic profile with K-factor and PA calibrated and adjusted bed temps (+10C) for Juupine plates, and nozzle temp (+15C) for a better layer adhesion and gloss finish (but I don’t like a glossy look, so I keep most of the time stock temp).
So yeah, of course, we can compare apples to apples, not a problem from my side.
Which slicer are you using? If Orca slicer, it looks as though the following might export all your relevant settings:
If you’re using some other slicer, then I’ll switch to the same.
I use Bambu Slicer mainly and then Orca Slicer for calibration hahaha.
Hmm… How do you get your orca calibrations into bambu slicer then? Do you manually copy them over or something?
I guess it doesn’t matter. Bambu Studio slicer has the same export feature:
Maybe you can export the Printer config bundle? Maybe put it on github and post a link or something? Or if you have some other idea on how to share it, I’m fine with that too. The goal here is to perfectly clone your configuration.
Just to confirm: the printer you’re is an X1C, right?
Yes, just calibrate and quickly import values into Bambu Slicer. Can’t wait till Bambu implements better calibrations for P1 printers…
I will try to upload and send the link tonight after work (unless I forget);
I have P1S, but it shouldn’t affect anything.
I have used California Filament PETG with Generic PETG settings without any problem at all. Try the generic setting with your BBL filament.
Apparently both use the same carbon rod motion system, so that is good news. I don’t know if there are any other differences that might affect the outcome. Anyone here happen to know?
It is possible to see minor discrepancies even between two identical printers. So I would expect to see about 95% of identical prints with identical configurations\filaments between P1S and X1C, using identical build plates.
Well, now that you bring it up: which build plate are you using? I have them all, except for the high temperature build plate. I’ve been waiting months for Bambu Lab to get their high temperature build plates back in stock. I’m guessing you’re using the textured build plate though for PETG?
I recently switched to Garolite, but I’ll switch back to whatever it is that you’re using, just to rule out any possible difference.
I have golden high-temp textured PEI from Bambu Lab and I have high-temp smooth PEI from Juupine (Aliexpress).
I also was waiting months for the smooth high-temp\engineering plate to be available… BL stock is a joke.
I ordered the voxel petg. ETA:
As promised, here’s the benchy after drying for 6 hours at 55C in an industrial convection oven:
…basically no change. I have a feeling that their PETG basic is just more difficult to print, and there are bad batches floating around out there.
Easiest way is to automatically sync through the Bambu cloud:
Press Ctrl+P to set Preferences, check the box, in both slicers.
User Preset changes (add/modify/delete) made within one slicer will be reflected in the other slicer when it is started.
Without the cloud, manual export and import or presets is necessary.
Studio does not show Pressure Advance (K values) in filament presets, but the PA settings made in OrcaSlicer filament profiles are included in gcode produced by Studio, overriding K values on the Device tab.
I don’t print a lot of overhangs so I can’t comment on that but I wanna say, I had issues with BL PLA, it was complete and utter trash for me. The filament was brittle but was stored in the same way other brand was stored, and the other brand was totally fine.
I use Copymaster 3D filament exclusively now, it’s from a UK retailer named Technology Outlet. They offer more colors than BL offer, but a big negative is that they’re now starting to transition to those stupid carboard spools that don’t work well in the AMS. I printed PETG parts using their filament using the generic profile and it was fine.
Some more progress:
I printed another benchy in black PETG with the same exact filament and slicer settings as the last grey benchy I printed:
So, it looks like the black is printing a little better than the grey. Out of sheer curiosity I looked at the bambu wiki, and found this inconsistency:
On one hand it says for PETG to use a “closed frame printer”, which in my mind means to leave the glass top on, but then it says to remove the top. I removed the top, printed the black benchy again with the same settings.
Not perfect, but certainly an improvement! I then printed the grey, again changing no settings:
Again, not perfect, but certainly better than before.
So, taking the lid off seems to be very important for this material (at least in my limited experience.)
I am going to keep working at this as I have a lot of filament that I need to use, and I’m also going to be comparing to Polymaker PETG .
Voxelpla PETG+ uses Bambu PETG profile. Their support told me yesterday. I have some coming in today to I can compare against bambu.
With that said I have absolutely no problems printing Bambu PETG in x1c with PEI plate and some hairspray.
I haven’t used Bambu Lab PETG. But I find their PLA basic to be not very good compared to others. But I’ve had good results from cheap no-name brand PETG’s and probably the best results from eSun (eSun’s profile) and Prusament (generic profile).
