I’ll try printing it as given, but maybe worthy of note: I think I read in a few places that there was some kind of bug or bugs in the 0.24 layer height print profile.
That’s all I remember though. If it fails, I’ll next try printing it with the 0.20 layer height standard print profile. In the one print I have so far sliced and printed, it worked without a hitch: no warping, and no detachment on a fairly large part, larger by far than either the given box and lid. If that too fails, then my next move would be to raise the heated bed temperature to 70C, as that seemed to work quite well in my earlier sliced print. If that too fails, then this will indeed be a good test print!
I am not aware of the bug, very interesting!
As I told you, with these settings I have printed hundreds, with P1s and A1mini let’s see what comes out of your H2D, I’m curious! Thank You
I printed it exactly as per your .3mf file, other than using my filaments, both Sunlu HS-PLA, and I didn’t notice any warping or detachment or see any evidence of it either. The fitment of the lid onto the box wasn’t perfect on one side (similar to your photo, but without any visible warp like seen in your photo), probably relating to some failure in printing some overhang on one of the outdents and resulting in the pushing out there on that side, and I noticed some gap artifacts, but I’d deem those outside the scope. The issue at hand is whether or not it stayed stuck flat to the bed during printing, and in my case it did. I can see the apparent warpage (pulling up at the corners) in your photos, but I didn’t see that in mine.
I don’t know whether to feel relieved or disappointed. I suppose relieved.
One last long-shot hypothesis: maybe it’s the people who are on 240v who are having the problem? I’m on 120v, so it heats up slower, causing a kind of implicit heat soak along the way. Maybe the 240v people heat up so fast that they reach temperature quickly, but with less heat soak time. Just a wild guess.
Unless/until I see the problem myself, that’s it for me. For those less fortunate, feel free to use the thread however you want to collaborate and hopefully resolve your root cause.
Eh, yes you should feel relieved, I would say so.
I printed again last night too, but using two spools of bamboo filament just opened. I used the file I sent without changing anything, but the result is not at all satisfactory!
I turned on the printer and let the bed heat up for about 10 minutes, then I sent the print. Leaving aside the blob that you can see that I don’t know what caused it (I was distracted for 5 minutes) the print is definitely low quality. I’ll post a couple of photos. Tonight if I can I’ll print on A1 Mini.
I don’t know whether it will make a difference, but one other thing I did that maybe (?) you didn’t is to set all three of these options to “on” before sending the sliced print to the printer:
Also, I’m assuming you did all of the recommended printer calibrations when you first set up, but according to moderator @jonRaymond, he also recommends doing it after each firmware update. So, if you haven’t, maybe consider that also.
Sure, I updated the firmware 3 days ago and redid all the calibrations, also between one test and another I also did a factory reset with a consequent complete initial calibration procedure, including the plate temperature. I also confirm that all the options were on when sending the file to print. Thanks again
I don’t own an A1, yet you say you have no difficulty printing on it with the same filaments. Does an A1 print just as fast? The reason I ask is that after I shifted to high speed filament, I never wanted to go back to ordinary low speed filament of any type. At least on the X1C, it just seemed to print vastly better with filaments that were rated for high speed (300mm minimum rating, and up to 600mm/sec or maybe even beyond that now). Well, anyway, H2D prints at very nearly the same speed as the X1C.
Aside from that, the only other difference I can think of is that I very thoroughly dry my filaments before using them. By that I mean quite commonly 2 or 3 days in a blast oven, which is way beyond what most people would ever even consider. I do it because I notice the difference. Otherwise I wouldn’t bother with it. At the same time, I recognize there will probably never be consensus on this topic, as there are people who steadfastly believe it’s not needed at all.
I think that completely covers whatever remained of any possible differences between our two rigs, unless the machines themselves are somehow different.
I own both A1 Mini and P1S (P1S is about to be sold, maybe I will add X1C if something “medium” does not come out soon) and I have always used Bambu, Azurefilm or eSun filaments. I have never tried high speed filaments and I have never had problems with prints up to H2D. For the projects that I publish on makerworld I usually change the speed only on the first layer, to have greater definition since they often contain more or less complex logos, the rest of the speeds I leave standard from slicer.
For many projects that I have printed in multiple pieces, H2d would have been perfect a year ago, in fact I bought it because I have several in the pipeline that I am reviewing to print them, instead I bought the A1 mini for small projects even if it lacks the support for two AMS that for me would be essential. P1S was my first bambulab, optimal size in my opinion. An “X2” or “P2”, even a single nozzle for me would be fine to place side by side, perhaps with quick-swap nozzles like A1 or H2D.
Taking a final pass through your .3mf project, I noticed striking differences between your filament profiles and what I’m using, which are very close to the H2D defaults. It may explain why your overhangs are having problems and maybe your shrinkage problem as well, though I’m less sure of that. However, you even named your filament “NoFan”, so I presume you were already aware of the cooling differences between that profile and the generic profiles, but maybe you forgot.
A few things that jump out at me are a very high max volumetric rate for what is ordinary PLA, no auxilary fan, no fan at all on the first 3 layers (maybe it’s a good thing, but it’s a difference), much lower cooling fan speed, etc. IIRC, I did use your 55C for heated bed temperature without problem, but I’d suggest you at least try 65C because of reports that the H2D offset may be wrong by 10C.
Let me know if any of that helps. Also, if you ever do figure it out, please report back what it was, as I’ve now invested enough time in this puzzle that I’m very curious to know.
You almost read my mind, I was just about to write to you if you could send me your profiles just to do a test tonight.
Yes, I deliberately turned off the Aux fan (always done on P1s) also because the first print of the same model with standard ventilation had detached from the plate, and I left the part fan off for the first 3 layers.
You basically set a plate temperature of 65 ° for the first and for the rest of the layers and I also see a difference in part ventilation, probably due to the type of HS filament.
The strange thing, which I don’t see on the screens is that I also set a plate temp of 70 for the first layer, while at 65 for the remaining ones. As for the volumetric flow rate, I didn’t touch it, I only changed those values from the original bambu profile.
I’ll check it out soon so that I can do the print again tonight, using standard bambu values at this point, and only changing the temperature of the plate!
In the meantime, support also sent me a 3mf to try, let’s see what comes out.
Thanks
You can’t take percentages of Celsius termperatures - they’re offset by 273 degrees from the Kelvin (absolute) scale, which the relevant scale for physics-ish measurements. 7 degrees at 100 degrees Celsius is 7/373, or 1.9%. If that actually results in adhesion problems, then its a real problem, otherwise its just armchair engineering. You’re welcome to your world, of course, but you probably shouldn’t do physics and write about it in public.
Well, maybe it has been rectified and updated and I just never got the memo, but last I remember sparse grid infill was widely known to catch against the nozzle, causing print detachments and other problems. Even at that time, many, many people were making posts that it was stupid to be the default, because it was such a trap for young players. In contrast, gyroid doesn’t have that problem, and so a lot of people, including me, switched to gyroid as our default and never looked back. It was no longer on my radar, and I stopped paying attention. I just assumed that feedback was listened to, it was no longer the default, and that life was good. Well, now it looks like nobody listened and no such change was ever made. If I sound dismayed, that’s why.
Why is the absolute kinetic energy the relevant thing to be taking the percentage of when talking about heater uniformity? Since the materials in question exhibit dramatic adhesion changes in the room temperature to 100C range couldn’t an argument be made that the percentage variation between 20C and the target temperature is a better scale for non-uniformity?
No I hear you. On my old printers I had gyroid set as the default for many of the same reasons. I just assumed that BL knew something I didn’t. I have yet to notice any of those issues specifically but with so many variables it’s hard to know what would cause problems.
I suppose relieved.
