I think I’ll install it too, my warping problem is still bugging me!
I joined the beta program, but even after several power cycles I’m still not seeing any new beta firmware alert for downloading. Can I bypass the wait and just download it directly from somewhere? Github perhaps?
The update is rolled out gradually. Please allow a bit of time after joining the beta, and you should receive it.
There is no workaround at this time.
Start at 10 minutes. The rear exhaust port may be too low. Causing the draft to hit the part instead of only clearing the heat from the top of the chamber. Youll notice the core ones exhaust is higher. Maybe why it isnt having the same issues.
Received now beta firmware notification. installing! do you recommend a factory reset before calibration? Then as a first check let’s see if the plate temperature is more uniform!
I always do a factory reset and part of the restart is calibration anyway
What’s interesting to me about his video was the corners pulling up on his first print. I’ve got a Raise3d Pro 3 Plus. I’ll avoid saying much more about it so I don’t start a 30 minute tirade, but one thing they may have actually gotten right was, they included small knobs to screw down each corner and help all the magnets (which are very strong) hold the corners down physically. Maybe we’ll have to figure out a way to modify our H2D’s to do the same.
https://images.app.goo.gl/ktkY987REt9BffGp9
There’s the red knobs in the picture, but you’ll also notice small holes near those knobs that you can use to install additional knobs to lock the corners down.
That is not the solution, that’s an overengineered bandaid
The solution is a graphite plate instead of aluminum one.
Uniform as a precision ground optic, and thermally stable up to 1000c with zero warping
isn’t the H2D overengineered already?
well, graphite or aluminium, the main reason for my suggestion, is to reduce heat soak time, and prevent cold spots and edges. meaning segmented heaters will heat multiple zones that the 1 single heater cant reach.
also welcome to the community bud, happy to see your 1st contribution being on my comment…enjoy the forums.
I had this issue on my p1s he front left corner parts always came off, warped etc and failed prints. Bambu is finally taking it back and refunding but reading this i know my textured plate left front corner wasn’t heating up as much and causing parts to detach. is this fixed in the latest public firmware build?
I have had serious adhesion problems with my H2D since I got it a bit more than a week ago or so, and fixed all the other issues it came with.
Today I set the bed temp to 100°C. When the display said it reached 100°C, I measured the temp over the bed, and the lowest spot was 65°C and the hottest spot was 78°C. Waiting a couple of minutes and the hottest spot was 85°C.
The printer has the latest firmware, according to Bambu Studio, 01.01.01.00
Will go Beta and see how that works out.
Just curious, how did you measure the temperature? Not saying your bed doesn’t have a problem but measuring methods vary in their expected accuracy.
BBL suggest using thermocouples taped to the bed with conductive grease. I haven’t tried it myself but it makes sense. IR thermometers may not get a very accurate reading from some materials such as a PEI coated print bed cause they are reflective, or something like that. I think even using an IR thermometer will give you, at the very least, a range from low to high that can be very useful. Same for thermal cameras.
Does thermal reflectivity even matter if the hottest thing in the environment is the thing that you’re measuring (in this case, the heat bed?). I mean, I suppose if you had an incandescent bulb in the background, you wouldn’t want to pick up a heat reflection of that, but just be mindful of things like that and avoid picking up a heat reflection from a heated nozzle (probably no need to even have the nozzle turned on anyway if the focus is the bed temperature).
the new firmware has solved this for me
It’s been too many years since I was doing a research study that overlapped with this but it doesn’t just have to be hot temperature sources that can cause measurement problems from reflections. So any materials like a shiny metal that has low emissivity but is highly reflective is hard to accurately measure. It doesn’t want to tell you how hot it is but is happy to tell you about the things around it essentially.
Place a thermocouple in the middle with use of thermal grease. Use a camera to visualize temperature distribution.
It is allways difficult to get absolute readings with a camera.
My H2D will arrive on Monday. Good to know I will have to check temperatures of the plate.
I measure using thermocouples, ir thermometer and ir camera.
It is true the ir thermometer is not very accurate, it tends to show higher temp than actual. This can however be calibrated for the emissivity of the measured object. I didn’t bother about that though as I also use thermocouples.
I re-measured now again. Same result.
Bed is 15-20°C lower than the 100°C set value.
In my experience, it eventually carches up. Downside of overly fast bed heating. The temp sensor is closer to a coil than the upper surface of the bed. So the machine thinks the bed is good to go, way before it actually is.
I have done several tests in these days, after installing the beta. I can say that now the temperature of the plate is closer to the set one, with the heat gun (which I know is not the optimal way) it is 3 or 4 degrees lower, before it was over 10. The warping is always present, even if to a much less marked extent, but if I start a print of some action figures that exceeds 8/10 hours I am always anxious because it is almost mathematical that a piece detaches from the plate. I followed all the indications of the support but to date without good results. It is all very frustrating!