but for the H2D, and hoping it would flip both the AMS 2 Pro and the AMS HT. However, I haven’t seen any that can do that. Maybe I overlooked something?
So, that left me looking at H2D risers, and there still aren’t a lot of those yet either. Two I started to consider are:
because it seems to have a following that spans different 3D printers, and
because it seems geared toward the AMS HT and AMS 2 Pro, which is what I have, whereas the D3P is bigger than what I currently need because I have only one AMS 2 Pro.
I can’t shake the feeling though that I may have missed some good alternatives. Before I start pumping plastic, anyone here found a model that you’re still very happy with and continue to use? If so, what is it?
I had used a bracket to hold a couple ams units above the printer. Given how they want you to feed tpu and how you install the laser module i decided to remove it and not hang anything on top of the printer. I like the babo stacking system for ams units instead. Best of luck to you on this.
It turns out the guy who had designed the popular AMS flipper model for the X1C has published a special version for the H2D:
Presently it works for just one AMS, but he claims to be working on a couple of variants, including a unified flipper for a combined AMS HT and AMS Pro 2. However, no ETA, so all we can do is wait indefinitely.
Anyhow, I’m in favor of anything that gets the AMS’s off the top of the H2D, as they just get in the way during the regular H2D maintenance of cleaning and then re-lubing.
The H2C wobbles a lot more than my previous X1C. Just looking at the GIF, seeing how the structure wobbles just because he touches the AMS… I don’t know if I would trust this thing for long ^^
The system is disconnected from the printer.
I’ve been using this since yesterday.
For the simple reason that it is minimalistic, requiring little filament and printing time.
Now all that’s missing is something for the two AMS HT, I’m considering this.
If the Perch hadn’t been available until the end of January, I probably would have bought that.
I originally used this one with wraparound arms and drawers. I edited one of the arms to make a lip that would let me latch on a HSW grid for tools and stuff, and I was pretty happy with it.
I ended up switching to the D3P one (your link is for the shelves only, you have to go through the link in the description for the paid base riser) because the creator is actively invested in making it an “ecosystem” (e.g. this multiboard mount) and is pretty responsive.
The main reason I went for that one was for the space for the HT, but also because I wanted his AMS HT tray for printing TPU a little more stably.
It’s really nice knowing that there are a bunch of things linked together that I can know “just work”, even if the down side is knowing that other random pieces (like this AMS 2 stand with drawers might take a little measuring and fiddling (I ended up making some riser braces for it so it would fit and stay secure on the D3P shelves).
One note: The D3P riser also physically raises the top glass. You mount the riser on top of the printer and then move the top glass onto the inset in the riser itself. This means that the top glass sensor no longer works correctly and you have to shut off or ignore the alarm.
I haven’t had an issue with this though and the riser itself is extremely well-engineered and sturdy; I don’t have any worries that the printer will shake the riser off or that my AMS units will slide off or anything.
tl;dr: My favorite so far out of two is the D3P riser system
With the h2c and the ‘need’ for short tubes i understand my solution takes more space but i always wonder if having them on top will effect the prints even more since the weight changes depending on what is in the ams units on top. I ended up with this. The bottom once slides out 100% so it can open and has 2 drawers below for tools and parts.
Having weight on top of your printer has influence on the resonance frequency of the total assembly. The printer does some vibration calibration. With a variation of the filament weight the frequency will change, which might introduce VFA’s.
Accessing your printer from the top, becomes in most cases an issue also.
Yeah without any proof my gut was telling me it is a bad idea why else would it do so many vibration tests during calibration. I understand that my placing them on the side takes more space but even if i would place them above the printer (like a farm might need todo) i would decouple them for sure by creating a wall mount or something. Again to me it just feels wrong to place 10kilo grams on top where the balance shifts over time without expecting any effects. But again just me 2 cents but its good to see a more expert person on the forum that seems to agree with me.
That’s what I believe, too.
All these calibrations I do upfront will potentially not lead to the best results if the weight changes. And even the resonance calibration before each print might be not perfect since the weight on top of the printer changes during the print (by using filament).
My “solution” (ugly, but ok for the basement, nobody goes to that room besides me ):
Good catch. You’re right. That is what I meant. I didn’t mean to narrow it further after-the-fact. I guess to be more precise I could have said the question was already contained in the OP, but in reality I probably shouldn’t have said anything at all and just let it pass like water under a bridge.
Just put a magnet on the H2D glass sensor in the front right corner and put the riser on top of that. For placement, see the small magnet on the under side of the top glass.
):
