The printed part has support on both the left and right sides, but the left side is relatively smooth after disassembly, and the right side is a mess after disassembly. What is the best solution.Thank everyone.
It’s hard to tell by just holding up a model to a cell camera without know what the original model looked like. Can you post a screen capture - not a cell photo - of the following:
- The model itself as it sits on the build plate before slicing. Ideally rotate the image it to the perspective of the side of the model you are dissatisfied with.
- Post another screen grab of the model as it sits when sliced.
There are several settings in support that contribute to dissatisfactory structures interfering with a decent print. The one cure-all that I have found that does the most good is to increase the support XY distance from the default of 0.35 to 1.35. For more difficult surfaces I will sometimes increase it to as much as 2mm.
What this setting does is increase the spacing between the vertical walls of the model and the supports. This is like erecting scaffolding on a building that a worker would paint. You wouldn’t want the scaffolding to touch the building because it would interfere with the paint brush. Same with support filament.
Now after you show us the shape of the model and we can see the underlying structure, it may also require either repositioning of the model or using tree support.
Another trick is that you could micro-manage where supports go by using the support paint tool but that’s getting ahead of ourselves. We really need to see the model itself before overthinking a solution.
Okay, it’s my lack of consideration. I will go home later and add some pictures. Thank you for your attention and reply.
You see.The position of the red circle corresponds to the contact surface at the top of the support, which is difficult to remove.
Thank you very much.
Unfortunately I can’t read Chinese but based on the image on the plate I can make a suggestion. Stand the model up on the build plate in the vertical. It will take much longer to print and you may have to slow the print speed down using the quite-mode.
First let me say this. That model is not suited for FDM printing. It is suited for resin printing. You’re asking too much of the technology.
One thing that I have done that works well is to erect a scaffold next to the build object that will act as a support. Although it’s easier to do in CAD, you can do it in the slicer by laying out rectangular primitives and then combining them using the Boolean mesh commands. You’ll have to repeat this process multiple times and finally create an assembly.
Alternatively, You can experiment with tree supports and hybrid tree supports. Here are some examples. I first created a plate to sit beneath the model and made an assembly. This provided a structure for the slicer to grab onto for which to calculate supports. Then it’s simply a matter of experimenting with the various type of supports to figure out which one provides the combination of easily removable plus enough support.
BTW: This example, is designed for resin printing. I was able to get it to print on FDM but not well. I ended up doing more cutting and filing than I should have. So just be aware.
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Yes, I understand that handmade is not suitable for FDM, I just didn’t expect it to be so bad,haha.
Thank you for your patient guidance and suggestions, which have inspired me a lot. I seem to have a lot of ideas, and I will practice repeatedly. I will ask for your advice when I have the opportunity. Thank you again!
You may consider splitting the model into two or more parts with the objective of finding a flat surface to start the print.
Then join the model back together after printing.
You could use a peg and hole on each part to add connecting them back up.
Often you have to design the ability to print directly into the model.
WOW~That’s a good idea.
How could I not have thought of it.
I will definitely try to do this!
Thank you,buddy!