My X1C rarely does this but yet the H2D does it every time. I thought about modifying the end G-code to have a ramped cool down but that just adds time to my prints. What could be wrong? I can’t be the only one with this stuff.
Filament is ASA and chamber was set to 52 °C with the plate at 100 °C.
Are you letting it completely cool off? Not just the pkate, but also the part itself. You can hit it with a torch or heat gun to make it black. Usually its Bambu petg-hf that does this.
Almost looks like that corner warped away from the plate
Looks like warp actually. If it’s still flat enough and usable, torch it or use a heat gun
I see that when the filament is wet, time for 12h in the dryer
Don’t force the print off of the bed. If you don’t want to wait for the plate to cool completely, or if you’re using a filament that sticks even after cooling to room temperature, put the print with the build plate in the freezer for 5 minutes, the build plate will continue to shrink as it gets colder and the print will detach cleanly. Exact time in the freezer depends on if you have a clear shelf where you can fit the whole plate and make thermal contact uniformly and if the freezer is currently running pumping cold air in there I’ve seen mine detach in as little as 10 seconds under the right conditions.
Yeah, completely cooling down to room temp. Didn’t warp at all.
Was 25% RH and still happens when its < 10%.
Didn’t force it off other times and still was this bad or worse.
I don’t think RH makes a difference. The moisture content of the filament is what matters. I got some filament from BBL, ABS that needed over 48 hours in the dryer before I saw only minor bubbles. I’m thinking about picking up a blast oven since I can’t be bothered to wait so long for some of the my hygroscopic filaments.
I’m having the same exact problem with BBL’s PETG. Even if I let the finished model set over night, to cool, before trying to remove the partI still have this. The part I’m making has a large flat base surface, so this “scarring” is very obvious. I wonder if applying something like BBL’s liquid glue to the plate would help?
I just finished 2 rolls of bbl petg hf, and I dont have these, no matter if I strech/force detach or leave it to completely cooldown. all almost full bed size.
Have you tried another steelplate?
(same with esun petg hs, these marks do not appear for me. )
it would be worse. this “scarring” is just the result of the filament reacting to the build plate material (e.g., PEI). If you apply glue it would have more reactions.
A simple quick torch burn would remove most of these.
Try to wash your washplate before EACH print. The only time I had them was when I didnt wash it after one print, and I had these marks. On closer inspection they resembled the previous print outline .
This is typical of ABS and ASA: you can see the same when bending the filament. It’s stress from shrink during cooling while the build plate is firmly attached.
While a torch or heatgun works, there’s risks with those as well. Much safer is to pit it in the sink and throw some boiling water on that spot. This anneals it, relieving the stress and it turns black immediately.
I’ve also noticed this on my H2D. Not sure why.
I don’t see it on my other machines, but I use a different textured plate on those with good success.
Might be worth trying a 3rd party plate.
Thanks for the tip. I used my wife’s blow dryer set to high heat. I waved the air flow over the large parts I made for about 30 seconds and the marks went away.
I went a little too long (or had the nozzle too close) on a couple of pieces and they softened and started to warp. No problem. While they were still hot, I laid them on a flat surface and they straightened out and re-hardened perfectly.
I may try the hot water technique the next time I do a large production run of this part.
use small torch blowers to quickly remove them without hurting the part. You can burn them away by using the inner flame (lower temperature but still burning) to do that.
