X / y dimensions of prints differ

No, they do not have the resources, labor time or finances to fine tune and perfect everything. This is why it is listed as ‘gen 1’ because that way the other generations will add to the pool of what they have done.

Also yes this will be a great tool to use, just have to use it right.

@kamil.niedzielski Thanks for this information and for the details on your website.

No problem I will make more tests with other gcodes and also publicate on the website:)

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And od not fair I think. Some of us bought this printers to print dimensional Parts and now you have a printer and can not do anything with IT. This is very sad

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And this is why open source like Prusa od the way you can go. I have Had kong time ago zortrax and their closed ecosystem was the reason I have sold this printer after 5 days. It was terrible. I thought that dispate the fact that bambu od closed you can make something like esteps. But unfortunately You can not

Ahh but you are NOT. Consider the following.

You have a TRAPEZOID where the two parallel sides are NOT the same, this is X and Y difference in length. You actually printed a SQUARE. This means your X and Y is not printing what you told it to print. ALL printers exhibit this behavior.

To adjust the TRAPEZOID and force it into a SQUARE what changes must we partake in? That answer is simple. we first make a reference point, in our case it is the Y axis, we call that Y1. To find X we take not the actual / measured as bambu listed above but we use the adjusted formula X= (MEASURED Y / MEASURED X).

This change is needed for several reasons. Consider this, the inside perimeter given any size will also be off. (In my printers case it was oversized and the outside was undersized) I created the same model that bambu gave with the tabs but I added solid inside and put a 30mm circle, the no adjustment print was 30.25mm. After the formula I listed above it was 29.96mm, not bad overall.

So what I am saying is this. When you change length of X, length of Y, skew you also change the inside holes and perimeters.

Rhomboid: A special case of a parallelogram that has its opposite sides parallel to each other, but adjacent sides are of unequal lengths. Be fortunate that we are not dealing with trapezium’s.

A trapezoid is an irregular quadrilateral with no right angles, unequal sides, but can have two parallel sides.

so I will edit my reply and s/rhombus/trapeziod.

I still fail to see why I would have to ‘fix’ the stepping or such things if all hardware components are equal…

I just finished setting another P1S up for a friend.
And just for fun I took this opportunity to address the problem of this topic with this factory new printer…

Once set up by the book the dimensional accuracy wasn’t too bad.
On a 15 by 15cm test print I had a difference between x and y of 0.184mm - using digital calipers.
This difference went down to 0.16 something after properly calibrating all filament related parameters.
Not much but worth to mention.
After a good adjustment of those pulleys the difference was down to 0.12mm - quite a good jump…
Once the y-axis was fixed with some tape bump stops the difference was down to 0.08mm and more than acceptable if you ask me…
There is still a slight offset between the two y rails resulting in a square model not really being square.
But my friend was happy at this point and could not wait any longer to start playing LOL

Just so you won’t complain about my testing or to give you a reason to do so:
I used 600 grit paper on all sides of the model.
Glued to a glass plate and giving all 4 sides 10 strokes over the paper in 4 directions, so all up 16 strokes per side.
Why?
Because filament and printers can misbehave.
A gentle and even sanding removes all surface imperfections that might be present where I measure.
I started to use this way after noticing that some spots just offset the calipers because of some tiny filament dot, string or whatever on the surface.
Complain if you must but that’s how I do it :wink:

Can you use a cube smaller than 30mm and not have issues?

Also, how do you reset back?

?? M290.2 X0 Y0 ??

New discovery (as of 01.08.00.00, not confirmed on older versions)

M290.2 still has no log output associated with it, however M290 X Y does! The default values stored on my printer were 40, which would be set via M290 X40 Y40
image

Did Bambu directly tell someone to use M290.2? Because this looks like the command that works

Yes they did. This is another experimental feature that likely will be changing, just like M1005.

Well so far we have no proof that M290.2 is the correct command. The syslog output you get from publishing this command is the same output you get when you publish a command with incorrect syntax. For example this incorrect usage of M1005: M1005 123

[gparser][33] gcode_line_handle insert succcess, ack seq: 14
[MCU][BMC]owner=1 lock! [Free]
[MCU][BMC]M1005:M1005 123
[MCU][BMC]M1005:comp_enable = 1
[MCU][BMC]M1005:current XY_comp_ang = 0.00000

gcode_line_handle success means that it’s parsable gcode, but that doesn’t mean it’s correct.

Also the machine defaults are X=40, Y=40 for M290. Yet the info being passed around says to use X=1.0, Y=1.0 (with M290.2). We have no way of knowing what is correct except by trial and error. And if we do use trial and error, it’s with the expectation that our printers have no idea where endstops are, so RIP toolhead

Also, in the “Machine Start G-code” there is a line:
M290 X40 Y40 Z2.6666666

So, make heads or tails of that.

M290.2 not working for me.
Added command to start gcode (at the end of it) but nothing changed.

After many prints i found that the problem is the slicer or the extrusion. I set arakne as wall generator and the extrusion parameters as 0.4 for the walls

I printed a perfect 30x30x30 cube

I tested the code:

M290.2 X1.0032 Y1.0029  
M500  

It worked!

This was on an A1 Mini using the latest official firmware.

To double-check, I reverted the code to:

M290.2 X1.00 Y1.00  
M500  

And the dimensions returned to their original state.

Hey there,
would you mind if I asked you a few questions about that gcode ? I’m also on an A1 mini, but cant seem to get M290.2 to work for me. I’ve tried it many times, and get the exact same results, I’ve even tried it with M500, still no change. If you don’t mind me asking where did you place the code in the started gcode? I barely got this printer about 2 weeks ago, and updated the firmware when I unboxed it so I should be on the latest firmware as well.

I use OrcaSlicer and added a few lines at the beginning of the Start G-code section in the printer settings to calibrate dimensions and axis skew :

; ensure we home without skew calib  
M1005 S0 ; disable skew  

M290.2 X1.0029 Y1.0039  
M500  

At the end of the same section, I added another code snippet, but it only applies to skew correction:

; enable skew  
M1005 S1 ; enable skew  
M1005 I0 ; reset skew  
M1005 I-0.000501 ; add value from calculator221  
M500 ; save to EEPROM  

How can i reset M1005 and M290.2 g-codes on eeprom like factory reset ?