I have a link on the Start menu. Install it as a chrome app. Never thought of saving as a .pdf. Thanks.
I agree, but I still seem to have made quite a few changes for my convenience.
Riser with storage I do not have an AMS, but the riser provides a safe place to keep the glass top when printing PLA, PETG, and TPU. It also has drawers for small parts, storage for several build plates, and a place to keep a filament dry box. An optional side mount for the external spool is very convenient.
Improved lighting The riser blocks ambient light through the top, and the standard lighting is pretty dim. I put together ideas from several sources to install more lighting without permanent printer changes, and without overloading any circuits. My solution does require some printer disassembly and wiring skills.
220V cord My workshop has both 120 and 240 volt outlets. Simply changing the cord to one with a NEMA 6-15P plug and using 240V heats the bed about six times faster than using 120V.
Remote control/“Smart” outlet My shop is an 80-foot walk from the computer where I usually design/slice, so remote power on/off saves a lot of steps. I’m using an old 240V X-10 powerline module because I already had it. If I were still using 120V power, I’d use a wifi module, something like a Tapo P110M Smart Plug.
X1Plus interface enhancement Review the Bambu firmware release notes first - if you must have any of the changes since version 1.08.02, skip this. (This is not a problem for me; I print LAN-only, printer internet-blocked at the router, no AMS2, no SuperTack plate, etc.) Otherwise, read the owner’s manual and installation instructions in the link to see all of the added functions. X1Plus features I particularly like include more accurate bed tramming, remote access via SSH and VNC (to see & use the printer display from my computer or phone), the console for directly entering G-code commands, configurable uses for the top buttons on the printer, and access to adjust camera exposure settings.
G-code for X1C chamber heating and heat soak Requires OrcaSlicer, because Bambu Studio does not utilize the X1C chamber temperature sensor. The code uses the heat bed and aux fan to automatically warm the chamber to a profile-specified temperature before beginning the print.
None of these items is essential; none improves prints; they all make printing easier.
Those are some great ideas.
I would have never considered switching plugs over to 220V. Thats something that I will have to try.
Those are all great convinces. My point was more focused towards how good the X1C is to start and how hard that makes it to upgrade and see a huge difference. Not like some of the insane upgrades that you could do to the older enders.
I think you all have some really great ideas. Both are right. The X1C is a great machine as is… and no amount of plastic will make it a lot better. But I also agree that upgrades are nice.
Nice to have, yes, but not necessarily. There were a few 3rd party add-ons that rendered 3d printing life much more easier and fun. Bambu got scared it might lose control over its walled garden (almost happened once before through launch of the X1Plus firmware), and under the guise of caring for users security, decided to take “good care” of these 3rd parties really useful add-ons, by removing them altogether through its Connect crapware.
I recently upgraded my Bambu Lab printer, and in my opinion, the first thing to get is a smooth plate it really improves the first layer and overall print finish.
Original Smooth PEI Build Plate for Bambu Lab
For more precision, a smaller nozzle is a good choice, especially for small or intricate prints. Just keep in mind that prints will take longer with a smaller nozzle, but the results are really worth it. Hardened Steel Nozzles 0.2mm/0.4mm for Bambu Lab Printers
Some people also keep extra nozzles or tool heads ready for printing with different materials. My suggestion is to start with the smooth plate and smaller nozzle first, and then consider other upgrades based on what you’re printing.
While the bed heats faster, will it still get to 120C? The spec sheet says that the 220 VAC only does 110C.
Welcome @macico23 to the forums community! I definitely agree with you on the smooth plate. I used to think textured plates were the best, but I soon realized that they are not the greatest for professional-quality images on prints. My smooth plate should be arriving any day now.
No, on 220VAC the bed tops out at 110°C. Bambu has said there was current leakage in the bed when operated at 120°C and 220VAC, so they restricted the temperature for shock protection instead of providing better electrical insulation.
That has not been a problem for me. None of my filaments requires a 120°C bed. When preheating the chamber, the quicker time to max bed temp helps make up for the 10° difference.
If I ever really need a 120° bed, I can quickly swap cords and use 110VAC.