X2D Nightmare Warping

I’ve wasted so much PETG trying to print a part that I’ve printed tons of times on an X1C and P1S with the top lid slid open a few inches without issues. On the older machines I don’t need any glue. Textured plates on all machines.

Things I’ve tried and other notes

  • Washed textured sheet in scalding hot water and soap. Sheet dried with brand new blue Scott shop towels.

  • Vision Miner Nano Polymer glue on plate (this helps a lot but still warping on the large outside radius of the part.

  • Left, Right, and Lower Purifier aux fan defectors install.

  • When printing with the lid on, the chamber temp on screen reads around 36C. I also tried printing with the lid completely off and temps hover around 26C.

  • Printing with the lid off with glue has given the best result so far, but still not perfect.

  • The largest slicer setup change is printing with Support for PLA/PETG in the AUX Nozzle when compared to printing on the older machines. But I don’t see how that would cause this large of a difference.

  • As many others have experienced with this machine the STRONG COOLING mode is too strong! And user UX controls are not honored when it comes to the AUX fan settings in Bambu Studio.

  • UPDATE: Now trying to slice the unmodified slicer file I’m getting a gCode error.

@BambuLabs, please give the user the ability to control the aux fans properly. I think it would best to have a Neutral Cooling (or something like that) in addition to the STRONG COOLING and HEATING modes.

corner 0419.3mf (190.8 KB)

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Of course you get warping since the fans are so strong they might as well blast your parts right off the plate.

I suggest print some of those aux fan diffusers/redirectors for now

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I wish Bambu would give us a toggle so we could turn off the automatic cooling. This way we’d be able to actually control the aux fan speeds.

Your gcode error is due to the way the at layer and ramp up speeds are set in the filament profile. I ran into the same thing. Set the for first X layer to 1 and the speed to 0. Then the at layer X to 2 and ramp up speed to what you want it to be. The at layer ramp up speed. I can’t remember the verbiage exactly but when I get to a computer I can take a photo of how I have mine setup that got rid of the error.

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I’m printing PETG with a PLA interface. In the filament options under cooling, my aux fans are set to 0%. The print starts, and the right fan still goes to 40%. I managed to change the speed from the screen to 0%, and now I’m printing without aux fans. Only the exhaust fan is at 70%, which I can fully control.

If you keep watching the print, that left fan will likely turn back on again.

Printed the aux diffusers already. They helped, but not a solution.

I printed on a SuperTack plate last night. Still warping. If forgot to snap a picture. I’ll try to remember when I get home tonight.

you are right, each nozzle change fan changes to 80%…I’m sure this can be modified in printer settings code in BS.

Indeed. I’ve also had issues setting the exhaust fan. No matter what it would reset itself.

This seems like there is a fan control gcode command in some places and it simply resets everytime it’s being read, like on my voron - I cannot simply set the part cooling fan, it will continuously jump around based on features printed.

Here is solution for your problem:

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Hi everyone!

I’ve been having nightmare problems with PETG on my X2D. PLA works flawlessly, but PETG prints just all end in spaghetti after the model being moved around.

I tried printing and installing the deflectors (which work because they are not high enough for the print to disconnect), I tried stopping the AUX fans manually, I tried washing thoroughly the plate, drying the filament, nothing works.

I tried printing at 85 instead of 70, nothing seems to fix it…

Any ideas? Big thanks!

I have no problems printing PETG with default fan/cooling settings.
However I strongly suggest using a infill pattern other than grid. The crossing lines on the same layer can cause problems especially with PETG.
Rectlinear is a decent choice…

I use my A1 for PEDG, for PEDG, PLA and TPU the A1 is simply the better printer, sad but true.

A1 rules :slightly_smiling_face:

Will join in, also having issues with PETG prints warping on the X2D, my H2C does fine with these prints.

Same here. My trusty old Creality CR6-SE had no issues with PETG, the X2D does not print one single PETG Model without warping. Original Bambu Lab Filament @ 16% Humidity.

I have since moved on to PCTG, which seems to print better. Not perfect, but better.

Fan vent deflectors + raise bed temps by 10 degrees. Solves most of it. Pic is a notoriously difficult test and was done in PETG. You can get the rest of the way with some 3dlac.