Hi
I’m a total newbie to 3d printing so am perhaps diving into this a little too quickly - I’ve printed a few things with my 0,4 hotend and thought I’d try out the 0.2 to see how far I can push the quality.
I’m printing a file that printed fine with 0.4 but with 0.2 it gets to a certain point and the pieces just seem to loose adhesion and everything goes flying all over the place.
I’ve attached an image of the print from the 0.4 hotend, but with 0.2 it prints the feet at the bottom and then everything goes awry.
Perhaps I should just slow things down maybe? (haven’t tried that yet)
Not sure how the A1 is configured but you can print with a 0.2 nozzle accidentally using a 0.4 profile on the P1/X1 series. That surely leads to problems. Other than that, not sure. The only problems I’ve had ever with 0.2 was first layer adhesion (swiftly fixed with soap and water). Lowering the speed like you did should only make it better, not worse (although I would lower the max. volumetric flow in the filament settings rather than use the speed level gimmick, for better “precision”).
I used the 0.2mm fine preset. I haven’t tried slowing it down yet. That will be my next attempt. Will slowing it down on the printer side be enough without tweaking speed settings in the slice?
Did you change the nozzle size to 0.2 in Bambu Studio? You can also now tell the printer which nozzle it is using via the handy app and the printer screen on the P series which was only implemented in the latest firmware update 1.05.00.00
thanks all. So I noticed the preset was for a smooth plate, so ive now switched that to textured, also halved the speed and seems to be working a lot better.
I’m guessing the main thing is to get better adhession on the initial layer or two. I’m not sure of the best way to do that though. I’ve read lowering the height of the initial layer might help, but not sure how to do that yet
Can’t really speak for the A1 as I have no experience with that.
However, usually 1st layer adhesion issues are best resolved by
A) thorougly cleaning the build plate with water and detergent,
B) having a relatively thick first layer,
C) using (liquid) glue (but not on textured plates),
D) increasing bed temperature for the first layer only by 5°C and
E) increasing nozzle temp for the first layer only by 5 to 10°C,
F) adding brims to parts and structures and
G) setting brim distance to 0.
Hope this helps and
PS: Oh, and there’s of course the infill issue risk: Try to use non-crossing infill and smooth surface patterns such as gyroid, honeycomb, monotonic, etc. Otherwise, “speed bumps” will be created which may well cause forces knocking your prints of the bed. Also applies to support infill.
That’s super helpful thanks! You mentioned glue? I’ve seen a lot of people talking about using gluestick to help adhesion - what do you mean by liquid glue? Ive only got a textured plate though - would glue not really help with this?
I’ll try and give some of these suggestions a shot next time around .
Bambu offers two types of glue. One is the standard glue stick which I use primarily to act as a release agent. The other one is a quite pricey liquid glue stick. Works wonders on smooth plates, but seriously overpriced. Others have reported good success with 3DLac.
However, you do not want to use these on a textured plate as they work against it. The glue stick would reduce the effect of the texture while the liquid glue could in a worst case lead to too good adhesion, ripping the coating of the plate when removing the print prematurely.
Your second pic in this post indicates something in-between a smooth cool plate and a textured PEI plate on the X1 range. So it is rather tricky to advise for me there. If it was sold as a textured plate then you should of course treat it at such and focus on A) through to F), leaving out C) and making sure you have non-crossing infill.
Hey all, OP,
so the a1 MINI, ships with a maintenece menu missing the nozzle selection section.
you may see screen pics from the regular A1 showing it.
the .03 firmware adds the nozzle section to the printer menu.
Thats basic openers, but I have used a 02 noz on sevral printers with sucess, not saying its easy peasy, but it is dooable.
this mini thing was a real joy to use until I got an A1 and P1+. since then, it sits alot cuz I have the Sovol doing the 2noz, the A1 wears a 6, the P1+ has a hard 4 and works all the time.
I’m certain the mini could make slightly better, and slightly faster 2 noz prints, but not with the uncharacteristic benign neglect the firmware has recieved
I use Elmer’s purple glue stick dissolved in a 50/50 of water and 99% isopropyl alcohol. I use this on my textured plate. I reapply ever fifth or sixth print and clean the plate with isopropyl between prints. What I end up with is much more uniform, very thin layer of glue. It seems to do everything glue is supposed to do and costs almost nothing. After dissolving the glue (takes a long time) I put in a syringe with cap on it.
I have tried putting the glue stick directly on the bed, but I could never get it uniform, and there was so much glue. I also tried Magigoo but was unimpressed.
The best way to avoid damage to a PEI sheet when removing models that I have found is to let them cool. After a print cools to room time on its own time it almost always lets go. Of course, your milage may vary and I reserve the right to be wrong about everthing.
seems to have broke free from the bed and gone crazy
.