I have a drain which blocks because of leaves. It also tends for the waste (kitchen, washing machine) to spill over and stain the ground around. I have a commercial drain cover, but this is simply not working well enough so I decided to make something more specific on the printer.
You will see that all did not go as planned. This was my first large print using the 0.2mm Strength profile in Bambu Studio. Actually, the 3rd as 2 previous attempts failed much earlier with the print detaching from the bed early in the printing. I’m a bit surprised that the vaunted AI did not notice that, but there we are. Print was in basic PLA.
I ‘fixed’ the detaching by cleaning the Plate (Textured PEI) and upping the bed temperature from 55 to 59. The results are as above. In all cases I leave the front door a little open as per recommendations (though I suspect they don’t apply when ambient is relatively low - sub 18 C in my case or 64F).
I note that, although the profile stated that the infill was 25% the part seems solid all the way through - one reason why you might just see a yellow strip on top of the curved part as I ran out of filament.
I change the profile to 0.20mm Standard and had a very successful print.
So what is 0.20mm Strength for and should I expect problems with a large print? Is there anything I need to do to use it successfully? Why did I seem to get a solid print and not a 25% print?
I do have some projects in mind in which I will need more structural elements and I thought the ‘Strength’ profiles would work better. Admittedly, I probably will not be using PLA (maybe nylon with CF or GF).
Please share a screenshot from the slicer of this print, this is definitely not normal. The infill in this would appear to be set at 100% or something close to that.
For anything big and flat like that in PLA, I always run a minimum 8mm brim. Dealing with the brim is worth it to keep prints from warping and failing.
I would personally print that in PETG, much better with water long term and zero bed adhesion issues.
Not sure whats going on with your infill. I agree that seeing a screenshot of your settings would be helpful.
I don’t have those settings. When it failed I reverted to the 0.20mm Standard profile and didn’t save the 3mf. I should note that when I looked at it, it showed 25% infill, even thought he print is solid.
The prints that failed initially did show an infill pattern, and I think that was set at Strength as well.
I’ve cut a section through the failed print and it is definitely solid. Interestingly, I was using a fine jewellers saw (what I had to hand inside) and it cut through the PLA OK, but the cut sealed up behind it!
Well the next thing I would do is try to recreate the problem. So try to process it and print it again with the 0.2mm strength profile to see if it still trys to print 100% infill. For me the filament waste would be worth it, but I understand if it’s not worth the filament or time.
For instance, we could measure the thickness of the part. The .20mm Strength profile increases the number of wall loops to six, so if a part of the model is thinner than 12 times the line thickness, there is no room for infill. You can also see this in advance if you slice the model and then examine the layers in the Preview tab. Drag the vertical slider on the right side down to see the layers, drag the horizontal slider to see the nozzle path on that layer.
My shop is usually colder than yours in the winter, about 12°C. Before I print anything, I use the heat bed to raise the closed X1C chamber above 25°C. During a PLA, PETG, or TPU print, I adjust the door and/or top opening keep the chamber temperature below about 35°.
Thanks for the advice, Ikraus. Below is a screen shot of the slice after I set the profile to 0.20mm Strength. As you can see the model appears solid.
I’m a little confused as the thickness of the part there is 5mm. according to my maths, that should be 25 lines at 0.2mm but there are (apparently ) 12 + the gap infill which looks very small.
0.2mm strength has 6 walls, so 12 walls + gap infill is correct and that explains your solid part lol.
I always scroll through sliced layers to see if there is anything funny going on. I have caught weird issues like support interface material not being put down and supports that did not connect.
It takes less than a minute to check and it can save a failed print, so I do it ever time I slice something.
