Anybody have/use any of the 0.6mm high flow tungsten carbide nozzles for H2D? Nozzle 45 days after purchase (purchased 8/2/26) blew apart (9/22) and Bambu says ‘no warranty’ on consumables… This isn’t a normal consumable failure when it blows apart at the braze joint…
Material in print is Bambu PA6-CF, 3rd attempt for this part with extremely poor printing, then printer starts making horrible noises… go over to find this:
Looks extremely wet too. Just a heads up. Heated water expands and causes unwanted pressure
Unfortunately, this is a common issue with Bambu hotends. I’ve seen it happen more than once on my X1C. The nozzle itself isn’t soldered or welded in place; it relies on a very tight “hot fit” within the hotend body. If it is subjected to high pressure while heated to over 300°C, the nozzle can pop out of the hotend and go off on a journey of its own.
Given that this was an HF nozzle, it was subjected to higher-than-normal pressure. In any case, this points to poor build quality.
Sigh… that is not a wet problem (humidity was at 9-11%). Ever seen a print where the nozzle is moving around while printing problem before?
Was the nozzle loose and moving around on the first layer? The sidewall looks like very wet PA-CF. Just giving a tip. Ever seen hydro forming? Or have you ever made a bottle blow up using water and magnesium-iron alloy powder plus table salt? Hydraulic pressure is a ■■■■.
Could have also just fell apart. Was this a nozzle from the first few batches?
Another tip. Unless youre using the ams HT, you may not see a change in ams humidity when drying PA. It takes a higher temp than stuff like pla or petg. Even the HT is at the lower end of usable temps for PA imo. Especially CF. In a perfect world, you would shoot for 90c.
Last thing, if it had been loose for a while, filament will flow out of the gap and cover the whole nozzle. This looks like it popped of cleanly. Just for future reference.
Some fun science below.
Printing condition and Approx. melt pressure
Slow printing, 0.4 mm nozzle
50–150 psi (0.3–1 MPa)
Typical/moderately fast printing
150–500 psi (1–3.5 MPa)
High-flow / high-speed printing
500–1,500+ psi (3.5–10+ MPa)
Partial clog / excessive flow demand
Can spike substantially higher
Then add another 1,500psi for water at 300c
Thats per square inch. Imagine how little surface area is inside the nozzle tip. Probably 4,000lbs pushing on that pressure fitment lol.
Edit: My math was off. I was thinking backwards when it came to applying psi to a smaller area than one square inch. Its not 4000lbs at 4000psi. Still the same concept though, just less force being applied in the very tip of the nozzle. Not positive how much surface area is in the whole hot section of a 0.6 cht nozzle
It’s not even brazed…although that seems like a good solution to fix them.
Bambu OEM nozzles blowing apart when printing high temp is a known issue, and Bambu is really dropping the ball by not making this right. @SupportAssistant nozzles falling apart is not happening due to wear - this is a design or manufacturing failure.
I’ve gone to ObXidian 500 nozzles for mission-crititcal printing, they’re meant to operate up to 500 degrees so whatever failure mode is happening around 300 degrees on regular nozzles shouldn’t be an issue.
Hi there,
Sorry to see that your nozzle has failed like this.
Can you please send me a private message with the ticket ID so we can look into this and find a solution?
Thank you
Immediately after I saw what happened, I grabbed my spare high flow 0.4mm carbide nozzle for inspection… Am I assuming wrong that this one is brazed? (I’m seeing the yellow bronze filler…or something similar?) Can’t say I actually examined the 0.6mm before installing it though. If it is not brazed, and only press/heat fit that would explain the situation completely…and it would be an absolutely stupid design/immediate recall situation. I’m going to have to clean up the 0.6mm nozzle pieces and see if that one is similar.
ObXidian 500 nozzles
Thank you… that was the unasked portion of the question. If I can’t trust bambu’s $90+ nozzles to last a month, what other options are there?
Me
Message sent; Ticket No: US260923530001
…please…just…stop…
I don’t have to guess. I can calculate. Part that blew out was 0.155 inches in diameter. That is 0.019 square inches of surface area. Taking 1250PSI for saturated steam @ 300°C/572°F (which is only valid in a completely enclosed area, which a 3d printer nozzle is not in any way), only nets a total pressure on the tip that blew out of …drumroll… 23.75 lbs.
Besides, I’m pretty sure the other ‘open’ end of the nozzle and plastic deformation of the incoming filament would limit pressures to way lower than “4000 lbs”. The torque limits on the feeder mechanism and stepper motor power/torque limits would also provide a rather lower upper limit than you suggest. Shall I go on?
(You’re talking to someone who spent 10 years as a machinist in a hydraulics shop. Why yes, the reference books are still quite handy and within reach! I did have to look up the saturated steam pressure after all…)
You dont get surface area by measuring the diameter.
Unless the other end was clogged with carbon or smashed into the wet part. Either way, sounds like you know what youre doing. Not sure why you needed help. Btw, the first set of numbers are for a 3d printer nozzle. The added 1500 was just for the steam.
This guy thought he was having clogging issues. Check out all the steam. Aaaaand pressure
@SupportAssistant take a look at this person’s case. Your support person on this case was on crack or something.
And yeah, the tip insert yeeting itself out is a 100% nozzle defect that has nothing to do with being consumable or wear and tear.
~ Also as others pointed out. Go get yourself Obxidian 500. It’s miles better than Tungsten nozzle, I have both and can compare them side by side.
Out of curiosity, what happened to the first 2 prints?
“Material in print is Bambu PA6-CF, 3rd attempt for this part with extremely poor printing”
I think the main body of the hot zone is plated brass - it is extremely soft and files very easily, and is exactly the same color as the area you indicated.
If that’s the case, I think that area just doesn’t get plated.
I don’t recall where, but I’m pretty sure the tips are just bonded in place with a high temperature adhesive.
Watching the tips of my WC nozzles, they seem to show a similar color flow zone where the 2 meet.
That indicates that they are brazed. I am not sure if glue would show the same visual zone.
When brazed, a poor Monday morning specimen could just slip through a quality inspection and end up in your printer.
It seems support is picking up this case already, as this case doesn’t fall under “consumed” imo. This is a failing product.
I would be interested in the materials and processes that are used for manufacturing those nozzles, but I guess that will be hard to accomplish.
But who knows, they might popup somewhere in “How it’s made”
This guy had been torturing his nozzle already with all kinds of methods and almost seems to explicitly planning this event with the camera in hand.
His filament must have been soaked with water to cause such an event.
He probably already burned the filament in his nozzle by heating it up to 350C.
I can tell you that PLA won’t become more liquid at those temperatures. It burns and becomes almost impossible to remove.
Agree 100%. It would need to be wet filament. He was mostblikely recording the extruder clicking of a nozzle clog.I really only posted it because the OP was making it seem impossible. Also wont answer stuff like “what happened to the first 2 prints”. Was he able to finish the print with a new nozzle? Pics?
His thinking would have had the filament explode out of the top of the extruder with a max of 25lbs pressure. Less if really pla in that video.
Maybe it was defective and just waited 45 days to show it
