2 identical P1S - different results

Hello Guys!

I have a problem with my 3D printer.

Both models printed on standard Bambu settings, my own modified ones and different combinations.

The result is always the same: artifacts on the wall:

at the bottom P1S_GOOD (my first printer, as a reference) at the top P1S_BAD (2nd printer) .

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This happens around the seam .

Filament: Eryone PETG-CF, 250 deg plate, 80deg bed.

I have some experience with 3D printing so I tried the following:

  1. Software
  • Pressure Advance - identical in both printers for this filament, changing to ā€œ0ā€ makes no difference.

  • Changing flow - no difference

  • Changing retraction - no difference

  • Changing wipe - no difference

  • Changing speed/acc for all parameters (eg. outer wall, innerwall, infill) - no difference

  1. Hardware
  • Belt tensioning - no difference

  • Cleaning all rails - no difference

  • Lubricating linear rails - no difference

  • I swapped Extruder (from good printer to bad printer) - no difference

  • Changed nozzle (inc. changing thermal paste) - no difference

  • Checked and cleaned filament path - it’s buttery smooth - no difference

I’ve stuck to this particular filament because it’s the only one I use to print items for my e-shop.

Do you have any other ideas I could try?

I’ve been thinking about the extruder motor, but I can’t afford to stop one printer and test on another.

My conclusion is as follows: if GCODE is identical, PA identical, filament the same then it must be a hardware problem , do you agree?

Thanks a lot for any tips.

Regards!

if you have modified the filament profile, for example, to push the flow rate up, I have seen this produce exactly the same results you show above even running the same gcode on two identical P1S

so the questions are:

  1. non-bambu filament?
  2. did you modify the flow rate or other tweak/speedup?

Thenk You for response!

  1. Yes. Non Bambu filament - it’s ERYONE PETG-CF. Dried for 3 days. 70deg. It’s in sealed box with humidity sensor showing 12%.
  2. Flow is on 1.00. I’ve tested other values - 1.05, 0.98, 0.95. No cigar.

I’m just surprised that there can be such a difference between the same printers…

Rerun the full resonance calibration.

Can’t say for sure it’ll help. But get in the habit of doing that whenever you change something in the mechanics, like belt tension and/or cleaning/lubricating the XY gantry.

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I forgot to mention - I did that. After every mechanical change.

I can add that this artifact is longer/more pronounced the longer the edge on which the seam is.

I meant ā€œvolumetric flow rateā€ max value. if you increase this to get faster prints, it can push filament beyond what the printer can maintain.

in bambu’s slicer, generic filaments default to very low values like 7 mm^3 when they can probably do 12. bambu filaments default to 15 or higher (depending) so they seem like they perform better with the default slicer profiles. not sure if this is bambu steering you to their filaments or based on their real experience with 3rd party filament.

I see! Flow Rate is 11.5.
I’m testing FLOW now, and for Flow 120% it seems a lot better. But dimensional accuracy is way off…
Question is why on my first P1S everything is perfect, second one, on same identical settings, the results are awful.
I know no machine is identical to another, some differences are acceptable but this is quite a puzzle…

Maybe I can shed some light into the darkness…

Even two ā€˜identical’ printers can have slight mechanical differences, like friction, free play, mechanics.
Means that what works just fine on one printer might not work out the same on the other.

You said you checked different flow ratios - by playing with the values but not by doing a filament calibration :wink:
Do yourself a huge favour and run the calibration on both machines.
For the ā€˜bad’ one also run the hardware calibration.
No need at this point to change the flow ratio unless the calibration patches indicate you should - it is just a confirmation here.

Let’s say the first printer needs a flow ratio of 0.97 while the other needs 1.02 - well within specs and a totally normal difference.
Calibrate both to their correct values and you should get matching results.
If there is a huge difference of lets say 0.25 or more in the flow ratio calibration values it could indicate troubles with the extruder, hotend or transport system.
Best option with two printers would be to just swap the hotends to see if the problem swapps as well.

All filament related troubles checked/eliminated but still no 100% joy ?
Assuming you did the hardware rattle calibration I would now go and check the movement of the belt system.
Do the x and y belts run freely in those rear pulleys or are they rubbing stuck at the top/bottom?
Do all the axis move smooth when moved by hand and without any binding/jumping?
If that is also all fine or got adjusted to no avail it might mean that you have to compensate for the issues by adjusting the print settings.

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Thanks for your input!

The filament is calibrated for both machines.
A flow ratio between 90-110% is completely acceptable, but definitely not 120%. This causes very large deviations from the nominal dimensions of the models.

I don’t see the point of doing mechanical calibration on a good printer (#1), everything is as it should be there. The prints are perfect.

As for the pulleys, everything is fine, the belt moves freely, it doesn’t rub against the pulleys.

I don’t like the idea of ​​"adjusting" the print settings to be more or less satisfactory. At the moment I’m looking for the reason for this printer behavior, especially since a month ago everything was perfect.

Something happened. I’m trying to figure out what it could be.

Although recently one of the pulleys has been making noise (nothing bad, it’s just louder than the others), unfortunately I have no idea which one it could be - the sound carries through the casing and it’s hard to tell exactly which one it is.
I’m trying to narrow down the suspects so I can do more thorough testing and possibly use parts from a ā€œgoodā€ printer.

Thanks for your help and I look forward to your further suggestions!
I’m very curious about what’s going on.

I managed to find the fault!
The PTFE tube inside the printer was very worn and while the filament moved very smoothly towards the printer, there was considerable resistance in the opposite direction (when retracting).
After replacing the PTFE tube, the problem disappeared completely!
Thank you very much for your help and best regards!
uki